Charging Problems! I am electrically dumb. I love threads with this title.
08-15-2009 | 09:51 PM
#1
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Squided
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 194
Charging Problems! I am electrically dumb. I love threads with this title.
So I bought a 98 junker earlier this year. Wait,... you don't care about that.
Symptom -- Battery would slowly get weaker and weaker with every start. I would usually get about 2 weeks out of it before I would ride somewhere and get stranded. I could always jump it off and ride home. Also, I could always charge it back up, put a load on it, and it would be fine.
Diagnosis -- Voltage at battery terminals @ idle = ~12.6V DC. Voltage at battery terminals when increasing RPM to ~4-5K = sporadic jumps between ~10.2v - 12.6v DC.
Solution -- I got on here and jumped to the conclusion that the R/R needed to be replaced since that is the "thing to do". I also didn't really understand the Haynes manual as far diagnosing the charging circuit. So I eBayed it up and got a 2007 R6S R/R for ~$35.00. I got that bad boy in, cut the old connector off, learned how to solder and heat shrink tubing some new connectors, and buttoned it all back up. I whipped out the multi-meter to verify success and BAM, was I disappointed. So there I was with a new R/R and the same problem.
Diagnosis -- Voltage at battery terminals @ idle = ~12.6V DC. Voltage at battery terminals when increasing RPM to ~4-5K = sporadic jumps between ~10.2v - 12.6v DC.
Solution -- Ha! Read and comprehend the Haynes manual. Go talk to the old man to learn about electricity!
I performed a leak down check to learn that .536 mA was over the limit of .1 mA. So I figured I had a short somewhere. I also figured out that the stator coil resistance was .6 ohms on 2 of 3 wires and .5 ohms on 1 of 3 wires. .5 ohms is the max factory specs according to Haynes. I also had infinite resistance between each wire and ground. I figured the short would be the biggest problem so I tracked that mother down by doing a leak down check while unplugging fuses in the fuse box. Much to my surprise, the odometer fuse was pulled and my leak dropped from .536 mA to .000 mA. So I pulled the instrument cluster, put everything back together minus instrument cluster, and started the bike to check the voltage at the terminals. The voltage is fine now and barely puts out enough DC volts to fall within factory specs. I will trace down the short within the cluster or just replace it with aftermarket gear.
Moral – Diagnose your bike before you go buy parts. I can’t wait for some guys to get on here and rip me a new one in laughter and poke fun at my limited but increasing electrical knowledge. Go ahead, I expect it. Anyway, I think I wrote all this crap to show that charging problems DO NOT mean that the R/R is bad. I think some members on here seem to recommend this a little too often. Maybe they do this because they know as much as I know about electricity. I know they are known to be faulty and yaddie yaddie ya, but I would be willing to bet money that if I threw my stock hawk R/R back on, it might work just fine. Peteetong.
Symptom -- Battery would slowly get weaker and weaker with every start. I would usually get about 2 weeks out of it before I would ride somewhere and get stranded. I could always jump it off and ride home. Also, I could always charge it back up, put a load on it, and it would be fine.
Diagnosis -- Voltage at battery terminals @ idle = ~12.6V DC. Voltage at battery terminals when increasing RPM to ~4-5K = sporadic jumps between ~10.2v - 12.6v DC.
Solution -- I got on here and jumped to the conclusion that the R/R needed to be replaced since that is the "thing to do". I also didn't really understand the Haynes manual as far diagnosing the charging circuit. So I eBayed it up and got a 2007 R6S R/R for ~$35.00. I got that bad boy in, cut the old connector off, learned how to solder and heat shrink tubing some new connectors, and buttoned it all back up. I whipped out the multi-meter to verify success and BAM, was I disappointed. So there I was with a new R/R and the same problem.
Diagnosis -- Voltage at battery terminals @ idle = ~12.6V DC. Voltage at battery terminals when increasing RPM to ~4-5K = sporadic jumps between ~10.2v - 12.6v DC.
Solution -- Ha! Read and comprehend the Haynes manual. Go talk to the old man to learn about electricity!
I performed a leak down check to learn that .536 mA was over the limit of .1 mA. So I figured I had a short somewhere. I also figured out that the stator coil resistance was .6 ohms on 2 of 3 wires and .5 ohms on 1 of 3 wires. .5 ohms is the max factory specs according to Haynes. I also had infinite resistance between each wire and ground. I figured the short would be the biggest problem so I tracked that mother down by doing a leak down check while unplugging fuses in the fuse box. Much to my surprise, the odometer fuse was pulled and my leak dropped from .536 mA to .000 mA. So I pulled the instrument cluster, put everything back together minus instrument cluster, and started the bike to check the voltage at the terminals. The voltage is fine now and barely puts out enough DC volts to fall within factory specs. I will trace down the short within the cluster or just replace it with aftermarket gear.
Moral – Diagnose your bike before you go buy parts. I can’t wait for some guys to get on here and rip me a new one in laughter and poke fun at my limited but increasing electrical knowledge. Go ahead, I expect it. Anyway, I think I wrote all this crap to show that charging problems DO NOT mean that the R/R is bad. I think some members on here seem to recommend this a little too often. Maybe they do this because they know as much as I know about electricity. I know they are known to be faulty and yaddie yaddie ya, but I would be willing to bet money that if I threw my stock hawk R/R back on, it might work just fine. Peteetong.
Last edited by john3012; 08-16-2009 at 11:18 AM. Reason: infinite resistance
08-15-2009 | 10:18 PM
#2
Iron Rocket
Squid
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 78
From: Hanover,PA
I have the exact same problem happening with my 98 Hawk. I'll charge it up, ride it 10-15 min. Turn it off and the battery is dead. I thought it might be a short. And i have even less electrical knowledge then you, lol. Might just take it the local bike shop to get it fixed right.
08-16-2009 | 06:41 AM
#3
Senior Member
SuperSport
SuperSport
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 880
From: Victoriaville, Quebec, Canada
Take your multimeter and test the stator, disconnect the plug from the left side engine cover, you should see three yellow wires on the harness side, I think that the connector is under the seat, they are the same that goes to the R/R, but since you have soldered them, the stator side is easier to disconnect.
You should see the same resistance between each pairs possible and infinite resistance between each wires and ground/frame
You should see the same resistance between each pairs possible and infinite resistance between each wires and ground/frame
Last edited by gboezio; 08-16-2009 at 06:43 AM.
08-17-2009 | 07:37 PM
#4
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,934
From: altoona, pa
I had the same problem with mine and it's discussed on another thread. If I can find it I'll post it here for you to read. The odometer drains a bit to keep memory going. i had mine defused for quite a while. Anyway, the solution likely lies with your battery. If you know someone with expertise they can load test you battery. Once i replaced it, my problems were over. Be careful connecting the battery as I fried a R/R by connecting the ground last(read Circuit Burner).
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=19181
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=19181
Last edited by nath981; 08-17-2009 at 07:39 PM.
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