Changing the sprockets mucked up my clutch!!!
#1
Changing the sprockets mucked up my clutch!!!
So I changed the sprockets and chain with no problem. Put everything back together again and the clutch didn't work. I've got it working by maxing out the clutch fluid - anybody had this problem before???
#2
Did you check with the service manual? You were to keep the slave cylinder piston from being pushed out of the cylinder by squeezing the clutch lever (before getting started) and tying it to the handlebar.
#3
Uh Oh
I've got a haynes manual - which didn't mention (or I missed it) anything about keeping the clutch handle squeezed in... In fact looking at it now, it sez do not operate the clutch after removing the clutch thingy me doodah...
So, what do I need to do to fix it - any ideas? Like I said I've got it working (kinda), the biting points a lot earlier on than before as well????
I thought I was doing so well...
So, what do I need to do to fix it - any ideas? Like I said I've got it working (kinda), the biting points a lot earlier on than before as well????
I thought I was doing so well...
#5
Here's what I did....
Pah!!!! Not yet... What I did was this to get it working (kind of):
1. removed the little cap on the top of the clutch thingy and squeezed the clutch to see if I still had pressure, yep, a little fountain of fluid escaped...
2. reseated the clutch piston (using a small g clamp)
3. put it all back together
4. topped up the clutch fluid passed max
5. adjusted the clutch lever so it's fully out
So now I can move and get it in gear, but like I said the biting point is about a couple of mm out.
Thanks for this by the way - really appreciate it...
Cheers, Jakeeboy
1. removed the little cap on the top of the clutch thingy and squeezed the clutch to see if I still had pressure, yep, a little fountain of fluid escaped...
2. reseated the clutch piston (using a small g clamp)
3. put it all back together
4. topped up the clutch fluid passed max
5. adjusted the clutch lever so it's fully out
So now I can move and get it in gear, but like I said the biting point is about a couple of mm out.
Thanks for this by the way - really appreciate it...
Cheers, Jakeeboy
#6
sounds like you need to bleed the clutch line
( and removing the cap on the clutch bleeder should not allow fluid to flow, you should be having to unscrew it for fluid to flow. so that could be too loose also )
( and removing the cap on the clutch bleeder should not allow fluid to flow, you should be having to unscrew it for fluid to flow. so that could be too loose also )
#7
Yup, same thing happened to me the first time I changed sprockets. The slave cylinder just works its own way out and next thing you know the resorvoir is empty. The clutch is a bitch to bleed compared to the brakes, since the only force you have is that of the clutch springs. A Mity-Vac may work better. Otherwise, rapid succession of squeeze-loose-tighten-release is your only answer. You have to get some momentum in the fluid to entrain the air to the bottom where the slave and bleeder are located.
#9
#12
Mick-e
This should be in the area... http://www.higbyfeed.com/
It's between Frisco and Sacramento. I'm sure there are some closer...
While searching for a feed store... I stumbeled upon this... Why does it just seem wrong... lol
This should be in the area... http://www.higbyfeed.com/
It's between Frisco and Sacramento. I'm sure there are some closer...
While searching for a feed store... I stumbeled upon this... Why does it just seem wrong... lol
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