chain removal easy or all day?
#1
chain removal easy or all day?
Again, just got this bike and dont really know a whole lot about it yet, do know it needs a new chain, picked one up today for it, a cut to fit 530 x-ring with a staked link. since old chain is shot im going to cut it off and run new one through swingarm but didnt know if it would be possible to stake the chain after it was already on the bike. has anyone done this as i dont really want to get into removing the whole front sprocket cover and getting clutch fluid everywhere.
#3
+ 1 on the sprockets. Its not a hard job removing the rear wheel and replacing the sprockets. Took me about 2 hours to remove the wheel, replace the sprockets and get it all back together. It could be done faster if you hurry. Also you wont get fluid anywhere. just take the front sprocket cover off and let it hang out of the way.
Last edited by Bluesuperhawk83; 06-03-2011 at 08:11 PM.
#4
I took the chain off a couple weeks ago to clean it really well. It only took me about 10 minutes, and I'm an idiot.
You won't get clutch fluid anywhere; it's closed off. Remove that cover and clean the gunk out that is surely in there from the chain while you're at it. It's an easy job, and you can actually remove and replace the chain without breaking it if you want, since the chain doesn't go through the swingarm.
You won't get clutch fluid anywhere; it's closed off. Remove that cover and clean the gunk out that is surely in there from the chain while you're at it. It's an easy job, and you can actually remove and replace the chain without breaking it if you want, since the chain doesn't go through the swingarm.
#6
It would be prudent to change them all. I you dont then you will get more practice doing it sooner than you would probably like. If you take your time it is not that hard. Besides you can always post more questions.
#7
The VTR is one of the rare bikes where you can get the chain off without cutting it, couldn't be any simpler. 15-20 minutes to get the chain off. +100 on replacing sprockets at the same time (steel of course).
Last edited by inderocker; 06-04-2011 at 01:33 AM.
#8
All my previous bikes were shaft drive, so I did some research and took a tip from inderocker.
When removing the front sprocket cover, do not remove the lower, rear clutch slave cylinder bolt. It's not a through bolt, and leaving it attached keeps the slave cylinder securely mounted to the sprocket cover...no worries about the piston popping out and losing fluid. Then just tie the cover with the clutch slave cylinder attached out of the way.
It took me several hours, but I'm pretty **** about doing things right if I haven't done it before.
But as stated by others, both sprockets should be replaced with the chain, and I'd recommend a steel rear sprocket, unless you want to do the job again in a few thousand miles.
When removing the front sprocket cover, do not remove the lower, rear clutch slave cylinder bolt. It's not a through bolt, and leaving it attached keeps the slave cylinder securely mounted to the sprocket cover...no worries about the piston popping out and losing fluid. Then just tie the cover with the clutch slave cylinder attached out of the way.
It took me several hours, but I'm pretty **** about doing things right if I haven't done it before.
But as stated by others, both sprockets should be replaced with the chain, and I'd recommend a steel rear sprocket, unless you want to do the job again in a few thousand miles.
#9
Like the other guys said, changing the chain is a piece of cake but I will have to disagree to a point about the sprockets.
I have quite the OCD going with lubing the chain (if the rollers are even the slightest bit shiny, I give it another good dose of chain wax)
I have found that I can get twice the milage from the sprockets. That is, they will last for 2 chains instead of changing them at the same time as the chain. .Usually get 25000 kms from a chain but near 50,000 from a rear sprocket. I have always believed that chain lube/wax is a lot cheaper than a chain so I just keep "pouring" it on. Seems to work for me.
I have quite the OCD going with lubing the chain (if the rollers are even the slightest bit shiny, I give it another good dose of chain wax)
I have found that I can get twice the milage from the sprockets. That is, they will last for 2 chains instead of changing them at the same time as the chain. .Usually get 25000 kms from a chain but near 50,000 from a rear sprocket. I have always believed that chain lube/wax is a lot cheaper than a chain so I just keep "pouring" it on. Seems to work for me.
#10
Again, just got this bike and dont really know a whole lot about it yet, do know it needs a new chain, picked one up today for it, a cut to fit 530 x-ring with a staked link. since old chain is shot im going to cut it off and run new one through swingarm but didnt know if it would be possible to stake the chain after it was already on the bike. has anyone done this as i dont really want to get into removing the whole front sprocket cover and getting clutch fluid everywhere.
Good question! A bunch of us just learned a whole lot.
#11
Like the other guys said, changing the chain is a piece of cake but I will have to disagree to a point about the sprockets.
I have quite the OCD going with lubing the chain (if the rollers are even the slightest bit shiny, I give it another good dose of chain wax)
I have found that I can get twice the milage from the sprockets. That is, they will last for 2 chains instead of changing them at the same time as the chain. .Usually get 25000 kms from a chain but near 50,000 from a rear sprocket. I have always believed that chain lube/wax is a lot cheaper than a chain so I just keep "pouring" it on. Seems to work for me.
I have quite the OCD going with lubing the chain (if the rollers are even the slightest bit shiny, I give it another good dose of chain wax)
I have found that I can get twice the milage from the sprockets. That is, they will last for 2 chains instead of changing them at the same time as the chain. .Usually get 25000 kms from a chain but near 50,000 from a rear sprocket. I have always believed that chain lube/wax is a lot cheaper than a chain so I just keep "pouring" it on. Seems to work for me.
But it's dependant on regular maintainance and cleaning of the chain, not just lube/wax... If you add stuff without removing the grit, it keeps eating on the chain and sprockets... If you keep the chain and sprockets clean, and lubed they last longer...
And looking at the sprockets when time comes to swap, you can see if they are grooved, or worn enough that they will wear the new chain prematurely...
#12
Yep, I guess I do it without even remembering but I give both sprockets a wipe down every now and and then. I changed the front sprocket cover for a Coerce "spacer"(?). It gives me full access to the front sprocket so it's very easy to clean all the gunk off everything.
The only downside is when I don't have earplugs in and lean to the left, I can hear the chain noise a bit more but who cares? I know the chain is alright.
The only downside is when I don't have earplugs in and lean to the left, I can hear the chain noise a bit more but who cares? I know the chain is alright.
#13
Yep, I guess I do it without even remembering but I give both sprockets a wipe down every now and and then. I changed the front sprocket cover for a Coerce "spacer"(?). It gives me full access to the front sprocket so it's very easy to clean all the gunk off everything.
The only downside is when I don't have earplugs in and lean to the left, I can hear the chain noise a bit more but who cares? I know the chain is alright.
The only downside is when I don't have earplugs in and lean to the left, I can hear the chain noise a bit more but who cares? I know the chain is alright.
Yeah, yeah, I'm cheap... But it works the same and is just as easy to clean...
#14
Like the other guys said, changing the chain is a piece of cake but I will have to disagree to a point about the sprockets.
I have quite the OCD going with lubing the chain (if the rollers are even the slightest bit shiny, I give it another good dose of chain wax)
I have found that I can get twice the milage from the sprockets. That is, they will last for 2 chains instead of changing them at the same time as the chain. .Usually get 25000 kms from a chain but near 50,000 from a rear sprocket. I have always believed that chain lube/wax is a lot cheaper than a chain so I just keep "pouring" it on. Seems to work for me.
I have quite the OCD going with lubing the chain (if the rollers are even the slightest bit shiny, I give it another good dose of chain wax)
I have found that I can get twice the milage from the sprockets. That is, they will last for 2 chains instead of changing them at the same time as the chain. .Usually get 25000 kms from a chain but near 50,000 from a rear sprocket. I have always believed that chain lube/wax is a lot cheaper than a chain so I just keep "pouring" it on. Seems to work for me.
Well if someone actually maintains there stuff sure it can and will work but for someone that needs to ask how to even get the chain off do you you really think that they have maintained the sprockets well enough to reuse them?
So in this case I still recommend to swap out the chain and sprockets and start fresh.
#15
#16
Well if someone actually maintains there stuff sure it can and will work but for someone that needs to ask how to even get the chain off do you you really think that they have maintained the sprockets well enough to reuse them?
So in this case I still recommend to swap out the chain and sprockets and start fresh.
So in this case I still recommend to swap out the chain and sprockets and start fresh.
8541, have changed many chains and sprockets over the years and my actual question was could you stake it while on the bike, nearly every chain ive dealt with went together with a masterlink or was already together when i purchased it. sprockets were new, machine markings inside grooves and teethe were still there, didnt figure there was a need to change out since it had probably been done before bike was parked, no one likes spending and extra 60-100 on sprockets if they dont have too.
#17
The riveted master link is assembled with the chain on the bike. It requires a chain riveting tool. I have the DID tool, but Motion Pro and others make chain riveting tools. There are several "how to's" about using the tool on Youtube.
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