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Old 04-15-2008 | 09:05 PM
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Angry Carb issues

I have a 98 vtr 1000 i got it with a clogged pilot jet and after i cleaned everything out it stumbles off idle. its completely stock and i have tried everything from the fuel screw to taking out shims from the needles. But if i cover the main air jet on the rear cylinder it will rev up fine with a little popping. It sounds to me like its running rich but i cant get it to lean out. any help would be greatly appreciated.
Old 04-15-2008 | 09:07 PM
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welcome to the forum. i am having carb issues too man.
Old 04-15-2008 | 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by shamper
I have a 98 vtr 1000 i got it with a clogged pilot jet and after i cleaned everything out it stumbles off idle. its completely stock and i have tried everything from the fuel screw to taking out shims from the needles. But if i cover the main air jet on the rear cylinder it will rev up fine with a little popping. It sounds to me like its running rich but i cant get it to lean out. any help would be greatly appreciated.
did you also clean the Main Jet emulsion tubes. These are the tubes that the mains screw into. You need to remove the tubes and make sure the holes along the sides are clean as well.

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Old 04-16-2008 | 06:51 AM
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mine were nasty when i pulled mine LOL ...... took a couple of big sprays of carb cleaner to clear the holes :-)
Old 04-16-2008 | 06:56 AM
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I have one of these that works well to unplug those tiny holes... Its real similar (and probably is) just like a welding torch tip cleaning tool but may have smaller sizes just for the carbs. They go small enough for the #37 Mikuni pilot jet in my little DR350 enduro. The pilot jet on the DR also has the tiny emulsion holes like in the above pic so you may want to see if the SH has them too - I never took mine out. Sure sounds like you have something still somewhat plugged up. Berryman's Chem Dip works well for cleaning carbs (just did it on the DR carb) here's the stuff: http://berrymanproducts.industrialhost.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146 You need to remove any rubber and plastic before you let it soak but it does a nice job.

The carb needle shim mod may also help you out if you don't find anything still plugged.

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...afCatId=&mmyId=

Last edited by RickB; 04-16-2008 at 06:59 AM. Reason: added content
Old 04-16-2008 | 08:16 AM
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Take a look at the choke cables before pulling the carbs off again. It is possible for the cable sheath to have been lifted out of it's seat ,on either front or rear, right before it attaches to the carb body. One could be pulled out , which will apply choke to only that carb (full time) thus causing richness at idle and during cruise. This has happened to several peeps over the years, and is always a welcome solution....if it is the problem
Old 04-16-2008 | 09:05 AM
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i had good success with the yamaha carb cleaner that someone here suggested for the soaking part :-)
Old 04-16-2008 | 10:45 AM
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i have had all the jets and tubes out and they are all clean. as far as the choke cables go iv had the carbs on and off about 15 times and i always check the chokes when i put them back in just for that reason. i have also used compressed air to blow out all the circuits but the chem dip doesnt sound like a bad idea but would have to take off tps sensor and all that garbage though
Old 04-16-2008 | 10:52 PM
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ok its not all stock it has a k&n filter but i really dont think that makes much of a difference. Has anyone ever had any problems with the air cut valves on the carbs sticking causing the bike to run rich or just bad all together?
Old 04-17-2008 | 05:30 AM
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If you had one get plugged chances are there is another one. I would pull the carbs completely apart and check everything. If you want a dipping style carb cleaner you can go to Napa and get a 1 gallon can with dipping basket. Just don't put any rubber or painted parts in that stuff.
Old 04-17-2008 | 05:37 AM
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Check the ohms on the TPS, that can effect starting and off idle.

Also make sure the carbs are in sync vacuum wise.
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