bullet dodged
#1
bullet dodged
I just finished with CCT replacement, manual CCT's in place. The OEM parts looked like they could go another 30K or more but then......
A reasonably simple job, but I took my time since this is new to me. I took the easy rout. Removing the rear cylinder valve cover and turning bike over until RT lined up with pointer, checked valves to be sure cam lobes pointing to the sky, also, I used a pressure gauge to be sure I was on compression stroke. Aces.
I then turned motor over 1 1/4 turn counter clockwise to find FT and line it up with pointer in window. I had the spark plug pulled and the compression gauge in place to be sure I was on compression stroke, All good. I pulled the gauge and used a dial indicator to be sure I was TDC. I held my breath and removed the auto tensioner, no click. Nothing. I felt like I was diffusing a bomb and removing the firing pin. I got the manual CCT in place, turned in until I got reasonable tension and backed it out 1/4 turn, locked everything down.
The final part was rotating the engine through several stroke cycles to be sure nothing sticking. Then the final moment of truth, starting the bike. It started right up and ran like a dream.
All rear valves in spec and new plugs and air element. I now can heave a sigh of relief. I now have replaces the R/R and the dreaded and vile CCT's with success. (the CCT's only took me 8 hours). HA! I am celebrating now, ride in the morning!
A reasonably simple job, but I took my time since this is new to me. I took the easy rout. Removing the rear cylinder valve cover and turning bike over until RT lined up with pointer, checked valves to be sure cam lobes pointing to the sky, also, I used a pressure gauge to be sure I was on compression stroke. Aces.
I then turned motor over 1 1/4 turn counter clockwise to find FT and line it up with pointer in window. I had the spark plug pulled and the compression gauge in place to be sure I was on compression stroke, All good. I pulled the gauge and used a dial indicator to be sure I was TDC. I held my breath and removed the auto tensioner, no click. Nothing. I felt like I was diffusing a bomb and removing the firing pin. I got the manual CCT in place, turned in until I got reasonable tension and backed it out 1/4 turn, locked everything down.
The final part was rotating the engine through several stroke cycles to be sure nothing sticking. Then the final moment of truth, starting the bike. It started right up and ran like a dream.
All rear valves in spec and new plugs and air element. I now can heave a sigh of relief. I now have replaces the R/R and the dreaded and vile CCT's with success. (the CCT's only took me 8 hours). HA! I am celebrating now, ride in the morning!
#3
#4
#6
I think this completes my list of items needing to be attended to as soon as possible. Now I can start on the things needing to be done to improve handling and a few other performance modifications. Working through my list.
#7
Yea that can be a nerve-racking job the first time you dig into your heads. Double, triple, quadruple checking clearances and going back to the manual a gazillion times.
Its much much easier the second time, when you have the confidence you know what you are doing.
Its much much easier the second time, when you have the confidence you know what you are doing.
#8
that's the thing. I wanted to be sure I was doing it right, really paranoid that I would screw it up and have to go through that whole process of re timing the gears at the cams. It's an easy job but can be tricky. Getting to things on that front cylinder is a BITCH! Now I'm kicking myself for not taking out the PAIR system while I was in there. Bike pops a lot on deceleration and it will get worse when I get new mufflers. Not the easiest bike to work on. My old Beemer was really easy, but then it was really old and I had it for 12 years. Rebuilt every part of that bike myself. VTR, a challenge but I love this bike!!
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