Bolt snapped!!!!!!
)
03-14-2009 | 10:40 AM
#2
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 562
From: NYC
Hmmm, which bolt? At the front of the tank? Put some penetrating oil on it and try using vice grips, and then perhaps an easy out. It's surprising that's so difficult to get out - I wonder if threads were crossed when it was put in last?
Good luck!
Good luck!
03-14-2009 | 10:40 AM
#3
evil man of nothing
MotoGP
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,493
From: Boynton Beach, FL
Lisle makes a great tool for this I just used it on a snapped bolt head on the header on the 250 rebel I used to have. "Rent it" like I did from Sears 
Let me find it for you. I would soak it with pb blaster in the meantime. My brand new hawk did the same thing when I got it in '99 I think the guy who put it together at the dealer cross threaded the damn thing
Let me find it for you. I would soak it with pb blaster in the meantime. My brand new hawk did the same thing when I got it in '99 I think the guy who put it together at the dealer cross threaded the damn thing
03-14-2009 | 10:43 AM
#4
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 818
From: Thornwood, NY
Use penetrating oil, and I'd recommend lightly tapping it with a hammer... LIGHTLY... your just trying to break it feel if it's frozen in there, not hammer it in... should come out with a vice grip after that.
J.
J.
03-14-2009 | 10:44 AM
#5
evil man of nothing
MotoGP
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,493
From: Boynton Beach, FL
Here you go:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00946338000P
You just hit it onto the broken stud and it digs in and then you just (hopefully) unscrew it. Again they worked like a champ on a frozen header stud that broke off in the cylinder head on the rebel. You're really lucky you have some bolt still sticking out, when my tank bolt broke it broke flush. Good luck hope this helps! Again rent it from sears
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00946338000P
You just hit it onto the broken stud and it digs in and then you just (hopefully) unscrew it. Again they worked like a champ on a frozen header stud that broke off in the cylinder head on the rebel. You're really lucky you have some bolt still sticking out, when my tank bolt broke it broke flush. Good luck hope this helps! Again rent it from sears
Last edited by captainchaos; 03-14-2009 at 10:48 AM.
03-14-2009 | 11:29 AM
#7
evil man of nothing
MotoGP
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,493
From: Boynton Beach, FL
Or I guess vise grips could work too. I couldn't use them because it was in such a tight spot-the recessed exhaust port between all the fins sticking out on the cylinder head. The bolt extractor will get a much better bite into the material though if it's really stuck in there-it digs in deeper and at 4 points-where visegrips could start slipping/rounding off at a certain point. Hey just my 2 cents...
03-16-2009 | 06:47 AM
#8
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 52
From: Triad NC
THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO. iT IS THE FRONT BOLT ON THE TANK. I'm thinking about draining the tank and taking it off so I wont scratch it while I'm in there. Anybody taken the tank off, is it very difficult? I've got a service manuel and I think it's within my capabilities.
I went to Lowes to try and get a new bolt but they had NOTHING close to the size of the front tank bolt. Looks like i'll be ordering from MR Cycles. Bolt is only $1.12 but shipping will be much more!
I went to Lowes to try and get a new bolt but they had NOTHING close to the size of the front tank bolt. Looks like i'll be ordering from MR Cycles. Bolt is only $1.12 but shipping will be much more!
03-16-2009 | 07:21 AM
#9
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,548
From: MN
its actually getting the tank back on that we all regularly screw up - just pay attention to the vacuum hose and where it mounts on the petcock and follow the manual for removal.
03-16-2009 | 08:13 AM
#10
2nd mouse gets the cheese
SuperBike
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,697
From: Beaverton, OR
THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO. iT IS THE FRONT BOLT ON THE TANK. I'm thinking about draining the tank and taking it off so I wont scratch it while I'm in there. Anybody taken the tank off, is it very difficult? I've got a service manuel and I think it's within my capabilities.
I went to Lowes to try and get a new bolt but they had NOTHING close to the size of the front tank bolt. Looks like i'll be ordering from MR Cycles. Bolt is only $1.12 but shipping will be much more!
I went to Lowes to try and get a new bolt but they had NOTHING close to the size of the front tank bolt. Looks like i'll be ordering from MR Cycles. Bolt is only $1.12 but shipping will be much more!
03-16-2009 | 08:21 AM
#11
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 219
i had the same thing happen to me. what i did was i took the tank off. then i took a dremel with a cutting wheel and cut a groove across the bolt. then i sprayed a little WD-40 around the threads and took it out with a flat head screwdriver. no problems.
03-16-2009 | 08:27 AM
#12
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 987
From: San Diego, CA
To take the tank off, remove front bolts (minus the broken one), disconnect the sending unit harness, then carefully hinge the tank up towards the rear, and reach down in there with a small crescent wrench and turn off the fuel valve. (Mine had no handle.) Then you can disconnect the fuel hoses and vacuum line. You should be able to remove all these and the clamps by hand. Then just remove the sideways tank bolt that goes under the back, and lift the tank off.
03-17-2009 | 01:10 PM
#13
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 52
From: Triad NC
To take the tank off, remove front bolts (minus the broken one), disconnect the sending unit harness, then carefully hinge the tank up towards the rear, and reach down in there with a small crescent wrench and turn off the fuel valve. (Mine had no handle.) Then you can disconnect the fuel hoses and vacuum line. You should be able to remove all these and the clamps by hand. Then just remove the sideways tank bolt that goes under the back, and lift the tank off.
Thanks. If the fuel valve cuts off will that prevent me from draining the tank?
03-17-2009 | 01:30 PM
#14
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,051
From: Portland, Oregon
03-17-2009 | 03:26 PM
#15
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,315
From: Richmond, Virginia
Go to your local Fastenal store. If you're lucky, like I was, they'll just give you a couple nice stainless steel hex-head bolts.
I snapped a bolt when putting on a CCT a couple years ago. Damn, my heart sank. Luckily it wasn't cross-threaded and it came right out with some needle-nose plier easy as pie. I'm guessing yours is cross-threaded though.
I snapped a bolt when putting on a CCT a couple years ago. Damn, my heart sank. Luckily it wasn't cross-threaded and it came right out with some needle-nose plier easy as pie. I'm guessing yours is cross-threaded though.
03-17-2009 | 04:40 PM
#17
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,451
From: San Clemente, CA
03-17-2009 | 07:17 PM
#18
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 524
03-17-2009 | 08:04 PM
#19
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,015
I would suggest losening the rear tank bolt and carefully raise the tank 4 o5 five inches making sure to watch the fuel line and such are no stretched. A roll of duct tape make an excellent prop for the tank. just stick the roll ontop of the air box.
Then if you just over tightened the bolt you should be able to just turn it our by hand.
Oh i always cover the tank with a good towel to protect it from stupidity tool goof ups.
03-27-2009 | 08:16 PM
#20
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 12
From: Maine
neat trick for aluminum.
You will need
A can of keyboard / electronics duster w/ straw
small butane torch
Heat remaining bolt with butain torch for 30 seconds or so.
Upend the can of duster and hose the toasty nub with liquid CO2.
Going from 400 F to -40 F causes thermal shock. Gradual expansion followed by rapid contraction breaks free the bonds that tie. Tap it a little with a steel faced hammer and grab on with some real deal vise grips with the flat serrated jaws, not the curvy jaws.
Alternate method is to place a fender washer over the nub and then place a nut that will slip over the nub without too much extra room. Get a friend with a mig or a tig "unhook battery!" to weld the nut to the stub. The flat washer will prevent the nut from arcing to the machined pad and ruining the finish of the frame. The heat will work it's magic and you should be able to shoot it with some CO2 from the duster, give it a few taps and give it a go! Use never seize on the new bolts.
You will need
A can of keyboard / electronics duster w/ straw
small butane torch
Heat remaining bolt with butain torch for 30 seconds or so.
Upend the can of duster and hose the toasty nub with liquid CO2.
Going from 400 F to -40 F causes thermal shock. Gradual expansion followed by rapid contraction breaks free the bonds that tie. Tap it a little with a steel faced hammer and grab on with some real deal vise grips with the flat serrated jaws, not the curvy jaws.
Alternate method is to place a fender washer over the nub and then place a nut that will slip over the nub without too much extra room. Get a friend with a mig or a tig "unhook battery!" to weld the nut to the stub. The flat washer will prevent the nut from arcing to the machined pad and ruining the finish of the frame. The heat will work it's magic and you should be able to shoot it with some CO2 from the duster, give it a few taps and give it a go! Use never seize on the new bolts.
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