So I bought a vtr1000 that was running really rich or some thing. It would start bogging out after 10 minutes or so of riding. Would run really strong initially then it would slowly start to run like **** until it practically didn't run at all.

So I took the carbs apart cleaned them and put them back in. While I was doing that I noticed that my choke cable valve thing was broken. (The plastic screw) I inspected the other one and accidentally broke that one too. I ordered two new replacement ones, installed them today, and tried to start the bike.

With the choke out it will start for a half a second while giving it 1/10 throttle and then it will die. With no choke it does nothing. A couple times it back fired the second I tried to start it.

Also when I pull the choke it's kind of hard to pull and slowly goes back in. It also doesn't seem like it pulls out all the way. I think maybe I hooked it up wrong or some thing. Maybe this is part of the problem.

I'm also not entirely sure I hooked up all the tubes wires etc correctly. I think I did, but not certain. I can provide pictures if needed. Also, does the air box need to be hooked up the for the bike to start?

Any ideas? I'd like to get this thing running today as I have some where I need to go tonight and this is my only form of transportation. Any and all help will be appreciated. I will be here ready to reply within seconds.

 

Where do you live? Might be time to offer to buy beer for the more experienced living near you.

 

I live in Florida. A little bit north of clearwater. (West of tampa)


Hell, if any one could help me I would throw them $50 and a few beers! I don't want to take it to a motorcycle shop because I would like to learn myself and those motorcycle shops have ripped me off in the past.

I also noticed some thing else. The two air fuel screws are flat heads right? I can't tell for certain, but they looked to be screwed in all the way. I tried using a flat head screw driver to loosen them but they would not budge and I didn't want to strip them.

What does the fuel screw do? Out more = more gas? Maybe that's why the bike won't start unless the choke is on. (And even then, only for a second or two)


What MUST be connected for the bike to run? I'm not hearing the fuel pump turning on. Does the gas tank wire have to be connected?

Obviously fuel lines and carbs. What else? I'm going to take a picture and make sure I have every thing setup right.

 

I bet the float bowls are still empty. Did you apply vacuum to the petcock to get fuel to flow and fill them up?

If not, that is the first thing you need to do. Might-vac, a piece of hose and suck on it, whatever you have to do (on the fitting on the side where the vacuum line goes).

As for the fuel screws....out is richer and normally they are "D" shaped but could have slots cut in them and they should turn. Try soaking them in WD-40 the next time you have the carbs out.

 

OK. First things first.....
This motorcycle does not have a fuel pump.

The vacuum of the engine sucks on a diaphragm in the petcock to allow fuel to gravity feed to the carburetors. The "choke" or enrichment circuit makes the fuel mixture rich so that it has enough fuel to start and keep running while cold.

Check your fuel hoses. Search for PVLIR and study the pictures to ensure you have the petcock hooked up correctly. If you have a vacuum line going to the bottom nipple on the petcock it is incorrect.

The mixture screws at the bottom of your carburetors control the air mixture. Normally set at front 2.25 to 2.5 out from a LIGHT seating and the rear at 2.5 to 2.75 out from a LIGHT seating. If you have flat tips that means someone slotted them for you as they are "D" shaped from the factory.

 

Ok, so do a search cuz there are a million threads on this very issue. What is it, pvlir?

Honda thought they'd be cute and add a fake nipple on the fuel petcock. You are probly not getting gas. You probly dont need to touch the carbs.

Dont dismantle your tv until you check to see that its at least plugged in and getting power.

 

Ok so I got it started. I took the carb float bowls off and they were 100% dry. No gas was getting into my carbs. I re-attached every thing and tried again. It still wouldn't start.

I noticed my battery wasn't real strong, so I swapped batteries and after a few seconds. BAM bike started up fine. I started revving the bike and it was back firing and shooting flames like crazy. I went around the block and it ran but was terrible.

Then I remembered I didn't fasten down the boots that go on the cylinder. So I fastened them down and then I noticed that the PLVIR hose or whatever looked backwards. (had the hose that goes on the drain thing on the petcock and the petcock one on the drain) Swapped them and started up the bike. Started fine and idled fine. Started to drive away and the bike started to stall out like it wasn't getting enough gas. I'm guessing my PLVIR hoses really were correct and when I swapped them I put them on backwards.

I think I might also have a vacuum leak. The bike some times idles at 2200 rpm's and some times idles at 1500-1200 rpm.

Also, my PVLIR thing isn't on the side. Both of the holes point downwards. Why is this?

Off to go switch the hoses....

 

Switched the hoses. Made it about a mile and the bike started to run like crap. Bogging... Hessitation etc. It's doing the same thing it did when I first got it.


Can't tell if its running rich or lean or has a vacuum leak or who knows. I'd like to get it fixed myself but this is my only form of transportation and I'm not certain if I can figure it out myself.

Why does my PVLIR connection point down like the fake one? Could I still be getting some kind of vacuum problem because of this? It looks like the screws that hold that piece on have been taken on and off a few times.

Could my carbs be over heating? When I take the coolant tubes off no coolant comes out. Is this normal?

My offer of $50 and a few beers still stands!

 

Because someone put it back together incorrectly.

No they are not over heating.

Yes if the thermostat is open.

 

If the thermostat is open? What does that mean? haha.

 

Ok now. Take a breath. Its NOT the flux capacitor, overheating(?) carbs or ants in the pants.

You are kinda introducing a lot more variables than you want to. Even on a perfect bike, doing 10 things at once then missing stuff like carb boots, airbox stuff, etc would make it wonky.

If the carb was dry then the carb is unlikely the problem (like the unplugged tv). You need to do the search on here. You gotta remove the tank, apply a vacuum to the petcock (mityvac or just suck on a tube to create vacuum) and see if fuel flows out the 2 larger outlets (as if to the carbs).

If you dont do this step, everything else is just gumming up the works. (giving you too many variables)

 

Did you search for the threads on PVLIR?
Did you find the pictures?
Is the petcock all the way "On"?

 

I told you I got gas into my carbs. My old battery was not strong enough to create enough vacuum to suck gas in. Now I am experiencing some kind of PVLIR problem. My hoses are connected properly. The previous guy had the fuel petcocks vacuum line pointing down instead of left. I took it apart and I noticed the gasket is warped. Could this be causing it? Here's a picture.

 

 

1. The post after that I stated I swapped batteries and my bike started fine.

2. I'm assuming my old battery was not turning the engine over fast enough to create enough vacuum to suck gas into my completely empty carbs. (Spare battery that I had laying around made the bike turn over MUCH faster)

3. I have the two fat hoses connected to both of the fuel lines that are side ways. I have the tank vent connected to the little hole that is next to the main petcock system. I have the vacuum hose connected to the correct vacuum line (Normally this thing points sideways, but the guy who had it before me installed that metal piece wrong. Now it points downwards)

4. How do you know it wasn't like this until I took it apart?

 

#4. Because I'm smart like that.


But if you really must know, that's what rubber exposed to fuel does. Originally, it was flatter than a 10 year old, but because it was exposed to petroleum products it curled up AFTER you freed up the edges.

 

Well crap. Thought I was onto some thing. Now I'm stumped again.

 

I probably shouldn't mention this and it may lead to much ridicule from the other folks here but I have heard of people disabling the petcock vacuum system to get it to work.

The down side is you could have fuel pouring out from everywhere which is usually is not considered good if your floats are not metering properly.

 

I know it has to do some with PVLIR. My bike will run great for the first 2-5 minutes or so. (Just kind of rich and awkwardish) Then it will progressively get worst really fast. Any amount of throttle other then 1/5 ish and the bike will not accelerate at all. A few seconds after that and my bike will shut off like its not getting any gas whatsoever. If I let it sit for maybe 5 minutes I can go another few hundred yards.

Opening up the gas tank lid and closing it doesn't do anything. I don't hear any pressure release.

 

Pictures please

 

By the way, what does the fake vacuum line on the petcock even do? It seems to be connected to the inside where the gasket / vacuum Diaphragm thing is. Nothing is supposed to be connected to this right?

 

 

Now, pictures installed on the bike.


READ THIS

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ix-pics-19843/

 

Yeah, Chris, the way you are describing it, the prob sounds like fuel delivery. Did you do the test I mentioned? Once you figure out what the prob is, then you can set about fixing it.

 

Atmospheric vent

 

If that is the orientation it was assembled in, then I believe it was simply misassembled.

Should look like this.


As I have never tried to put one together wrong, I don't know if it will effect fuel delivery or not.

Looking at the two sides that go tegeather

I don't see any reason you can not rotate the plate with the vac port to any clock position you wanted.
But again, I've never tried it.. and I don't see a reason to.

 

He may not have that spring Erik....

 

Good point.. I did notice the 2 halfs are laying on top each other with no screws holding together (so we know the diaphragm spring is not in there now) and no spring in the picture. I just assumed, it was just not in his pic, but should have asked, Nice catch..

OP,,, As it seems clear your fuel petcock has been disassembled previous to you... DO you have / see the diaphragm spring shown in this pic

 

Yeah i have the spring. It goes in between the two plates right?

 

So my fuel petcock is definitely leaking now. You say my gasket / vacuum Diaphragm thing wasn't warped before I disassembled it. But it looks pretty beat up and messed up too. I know the previous guy must have taken this thing apart a few times because its clear that he used pliers to turn the screws as they are all chewed up. Maybe they were already warped because he removed them too?

looks like I need to order a few parts for the fuel petcock any way now.


Rwhisen you mentioned disabling the vacuum part of the fuel petcock. I really need to be able to ride my bike while I'm waiting for parts as this is my only form of transportation for work. Do I still need a intact vacuum Diaphragm to bypass the vacuum part of the petcock? Looks like I'm replacing it any way so I suppose it can't hurt.