bike just died, complete loss of power/electricity
06-25-2012 | 03:51 PM
#32
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 700
UPDATE!!
So I tested the battery...
Key off, at the terminal- 12.55VDC
Key on, lights on, all that- 12.0somethinVDC
So this is telling me my battery may have been spared? 12V seems spot on for a 12 volt battery...
Also, I may spring for this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-SHIND...624e04&vxp=mtr
It's pricy, but would give me a warm fuzzy knowing it would work AND look sexy doin it...
So I tested the battery...
Key off, at the terminal- 12.55VDC
Key on, lights on, all that- 12.0somethinVDC
So this is telling me my battery may have been spared? 12V seems spot on for a 12 volt battery...
Also, I may spring for this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-SHIND...624e04&vxp=mtr
It's pricy, but would give me a warm fuzzy knowing it would work AND look sexy doin it...
Jeremy, I don't like calling people out directly over the internet because it starts senseless arguments, so I tend to passive-aggressively make my point without knowing it. My cousin bought a r/r from them for his Dyna, it was inferior quality and a cheap China knock off, they wouldn't accept a refund or exchange, so that gave me my opinion on them. If you have good luck with yours maybe its hit and miss with that company.
06-25-2012 | 04:09 PM
#33
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 423
From: ABE PA
aja- I can check that soon...but since I copied it from fireblades.org already...
"From my service manual for a '97 CBR 900:
(number on OEM part is SH633-12)
To check the regulator with a meter, looking at the reg/rec connector with the three pins on top, they are the yellow wires, the bottom right is the green and the bottom left is the red/white. Ohms between the red/white and each yellow should be between .5k and 10K Ω with the positive lead on the red/white. It should read open with the negative lead on the red/white. Between the green and the yellows, should be the opposite, negative lead on the green = .5k to 10k Ω, positive on green, = open to yellows:"
On mine using that test, the lead on the far right is open. (others @1.5ohm) No resistance. And coincidentally thats the same lead on the connector that looks burned and brown/black...fried Reg/Rec if I ever saw one before LOL
That said i'll now check for voltage drop...
"From my service manual for a '97 CBR 900:
(number on OEM part is SH633-12)
To check the regulator with a meter, looking at the reg/rec connector with the three pins on top, they are the yellow wires, the bottom right is the green and the bottom left is the red/white. Ohms between the red/white and each yellow should be between .5k and 10K Ω with the positive lead on the red/white. It should read open with the negative lead on the red/white. Between the green and the yellows, should be the opposite, negative lead on the green = .5k to 10k Ω, positive on green, = open to yellows:"
On mine using that test, the lead on the far right is open. (others @1.5ohm) No resistance. And coincidentally thats the same lead on the connector that looks burned and brown/black...fried Reg/Rec if I ever saw one before LOL
That said i'll now check for voltage drop...
06-25-2012 | 04:10 PM
#34
Banned
MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,942
From: Lake View Terrace, CA
Well I don't know why you have such a bad opinion of them.... I've had one of their R\Rs in my bike for about 5 yrs now with no issues.
06-25-2012 | 04:19 PM
#35
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 423
From: ABE PA
Everyone should know ANYthing you buy is hit or miss...if you look hard enough there's somebody that dislikes/loves just about everything 
SO!...checked for voltage drop over a thirty second time period (long enough?) and 'key off' was a steady 12.60~.61. 'Key on' was steady 12.04~.05...over thirty seconds.
SO!...checked for voltage drop over a thirty second time period (long enough?) and 'key off' was a steady 12.60~.61. 'Key on' was steady 12.04~.05...over thirty seconds.
06-25-2012 | 04:56 PM
#37
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 423
From: ABE PA
IMHO, holes/vents/slots covertly put into the side fairing near the seat would look sick...put some mesh/screen from the back or even have the heat sink exposed (would you burn your leg??)...though I'll admit I'd be scared to cut up the beautiful blue paint job just to have it look like poop.
So whats the verdict on the battery? any other way to test it?
Want to make sure: 1) that I dont have to buy another one and 2) that when I get another Reg/Rec I wont fry anything by using a possibly faulty battery.
So whats the verdict on the battery? any other way to test it?
Want to make sure: 1) that I dont have to buy another one and 2) that when I get another Reg/Rec I wont fry anything by using a possibly faulty battery.
06-26-2012 | 01:15 AM
#39
Seasoned tech
SuperSport
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 576
From: Issaquah, WA
The battery sounds like it's fine. I would continue to run it. What happens is if the r/r goes bad it either starts sending A/C voltage to the battery if the rectifier goes bad and if the regulator goes bad it quits charging and runs the battery dead deep cycling it which is really hard on it, or it overcharges it and burns it up which could be potentially dangerous.
As far as replacing the fuses and testing you can go to most any autoparts store and get a reseting circuit breaker. This way you can replace it and if it pops again you're not going through a ton of fuses trying to diog the issue.
As far as replacing the fuses and testing you can go to most any autoparts store and get a reseting circuit breaker. This way you can replace it and if it pops again you're not going through a ton of fuses trying to diog the issue.
06-26-2012 | 08:27 AM
#40
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 700
Like the others said, if the battery was bad you would notice an immediate drop in voltage, when mine went bad it dropped around 1 volt per second.
When you replace it be sure to replace the burned connector, you may need to cut the wire back a little too.
Sounds like you got lucky, but keep an eye on lamps and lights once you get it replaced. My headlight and dash lights were blown as well and I didn't realize until I went to ride home and had nothing up front but the cyclops light haha
When you replace it be sure to replace the burned connector, you may need to cut the wire back a little too.
Sounds like you got lucky, but keep an eye on lamps and lights once you get it replaced. My headlight and dash lights were blown as well and I didn't realize until I went to ride home and had nothing up front but the cyclops light haha
06-26-2012 | 08:59 AM
#41
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 124
From: Dayton,Ohio
There is a connector under the seat near the battery box that should be checked.It's where the stator ties into the wiring harness.My plug was starting to burn,not as bad as the plug at the R/R. I cut the plug out and soldered & used heatshrink on the splice.A pain in the *** because theres not a lot of slack. If your plug is good just use some dielectric grease and you should be ok.
06-26-2012 | 09:31 AM
#42
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 423
From: ABE PA
Awesome...good things to check for, thanks guys! I'm still tryin to get one of FH series regulators on the cheap...people on fleabay seem to be tight lipped about it cause the MOSFET ones demand a premium...a lot of the cheaper ones I find out to be SH...same as stock.
06-26-2012 | 03:02 PM
#43
Thread Starter
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Superstock
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 423
From: ABE PA
Oh and just an update. Checked all the other related wiring...nothing really burned or brown. Guess I'm lucky...thanks again for all the help guys!
Now back to my search...ugh...at least I still got the bandit.
Now back to my search...ugh...at least I still got the bandit.
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