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bike just died, complete loss of power/electricity

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Old 06-23-2012 | 01:52 PM
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bike just died, complete loss of power/electricity

Currently on the side of the road, waiting for triple a to rescue me. While riding, bike just completely died. No warning. Even tried to beep for my buddy ahead of me, no horn. When I turn the key to on, there's nothing. No lights, gauges, horn.
Prior history is clean. Nothing acting suspicious. Ridden almost daily.
My question?
WTF!? Where do I start? First bank of fuses are good. Nothing visible like torn, ripped or frayed wires...
Old 06-23-2012 | 01:59 PM
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First check battery connections as they can vibrate loose.

Check the main 30amp fuse and also R/R + Battery.
Old 06-23-2012 | 02:05 PM
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OK kewl man thanks...another note I tried to pop start it, an nothing. So no spark...an good lookin wicky, that was fast!
I'm suspecting, from what all I've read on this site...it may be the reg rec...it doesn't look stock, or like the nice ones..
Old 06-23-2012 | 02:08 PM
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Like said above,first check battery connections,can com loose.
Next,you wanna check your starter relay connection and fuse.If that fuse blows,nothing will work.
If that is fine,check wire connectors for corrosion.this can cause problems too.
Check R/R for burning and corrosion.
If all this checks out and are confident everything is fine,check and play around with the starter button.This can cause bike to shut off or headlight not to work.This happened to me with the headlights.
It is possible the starter relay is failing,it will work on and off,my bike would shut off and have no power.I would knock at the starter relay with a screw driver and it would come back on.
Most likely,it's the starter button or Starter relay
Old 06-23-2012 | 03:08 PM
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Those are all possibilities, but the most likely culprit by far is the regulator. The 30 amp main fuse will be blown. If you are not too far from home, less than 100 miles, and your battery has been working well, then you need to first unplug the RR. Then replace the 30 amp main fuse at the starter solenoid. If you ONLY stick a new fuse in, it will likely blow immediately or withing a short time, and other electrical things will be damaged. Also unplug the headlight to conserve electricity. The bike should start right up and run until the ignition system drains the battery.
Old 06-23-2012 | 03:28 PM
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When my r/r went out my tachometer stopped working then my speedometer then my lights went dim then it died this all happened in a matter of ten fifteen mins it rode till the battery died. Just my experience
Old 06-23-2012 | 03:29 PM
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Thought it was just my battery put a good battery in. Rode the bike and did the same things. And when battery was drains bike died
Old 06-23-2012 | 04:19 PM
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Talked to my buddy and he said the same thing when the r/r goes lights dim and electrical just looses power after the battery dies.said that if lost complete power most likely stater relay or button.but beerhunter has helped me a lot so maybe he knows something about it that I don't so not trying to over rule his answer just letting you know my side hope this helps
Old 06-23-2012 | 05:53 PM
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Thanks for all the help! Yeah it just kina died. All at once, while riding. I'll look into all the possibilities tomorrow, for now I just swapped it out for the bandit...its still too nice out to start wrenching!
Old 06-23-2012 | 07:12 PM
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There is a spare 30a fuse in the rubber boot around the starter relay, it is on the bottom
Old 06-24-2012 | 08:51 AM
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Alright an update guys...

So I have a blown 30 amp fuse..Beerhunters predictions are coming true! LOL
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And heres a pics of the Reg/Rec...looks like those ones on fleabay for thirty bucks..

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My poor Hawk!!! NOoooooo....I thought this only happened to my Bandit! LMFAO!!

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Damn those pics are big...sorry anybody with a crappy connection...I reduced the size to 400x400...live an learn I guess.
So yeah. I'm thinking Reg/Rec at this point. Any sure way to test it? like ohms from pin 'x' to pin 'y'?
And you stand correct aja, there is a spare right in there underneath it all in the rubber boot. I wonder what for...if only to blow again?
All the support is very appreciated guys...

Last edited by Bandit400man; 06-24-2012 at 08:56 AM.
Old 06-24-2012 | 10:47 AM
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It's the r/r. I wouldn't bother testing it. The one you have looks like a newer stock unit, which can still fail. You will most likely need a new battery also.

You can test them, I'm not sure exactly how though.
Old 06-24-2012 | 11:05 AM
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I tested might r by setting the meter to make a soil d when it grounded out. Did you put a new fuse on it to see if it would pop again.. mine popped right when I plugged the r/r back in. Get a 08zx6r r/r. That's what I did and my bike charges perfect now.
Old 06-24-2012 | 11:33 AM
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Instructions
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=14380

List of MOSFET r/r's
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=25117
Old 06-25-2012 | 12:09 AM
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Bandit400man, glad you and your bike are O.K. Thank goodness it didnt' happen as you were passing the worlds 2nd largest winnbago while approaching the worlds largest winnabago. If it does turn out to be your R/R, welcome to the club. Been there, done that. Glad you are O.K.

+1 on aja freeby links for you. Saved a search, but sometimes help for a fellow rider at the time is more important than--give me a fish I eat for the day, teach me to fish and I live for a life time? Learn to fish, after you have the STRENGTH to fish. Just my 2cts.

Sorry for the Jack...
Old 06-25-2012 | 05:01 AM
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It's all good thanks for all the help guys...

I did put in the new fuse an simply turned the key...everything lit up..headlights, gauges, ect. So maybe my battery isn't fried? I'm assuming I could simply test the voltage? Or would it still like, be screwed up somehow?
So a new reg rec...hmmm...lots of good reading here on that topic.
Thanks again everyone! I'll keep everyone posted on my progress...
Old 06-25-2012 | 08:28 AM
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When mine went bad I replaced the fuse and everything worked. I couldn't get it started without jumper cables, and once off the cables it would die in a few seconds.

Test your voltage with key off, then with it on. That should give you a good idea of the battery condition. I wouldn't run the bike though as it may cause further damage to the battery.
Old 06-25-2012 | 08:33 AM
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Cool, thanks...yeah I hadn't planned on actually starting it until I got the right model rr figured out..still reading that long *** post Haha...thinkin on a sing ding dong pn fh012aa...am I on the right track?
Old 06-25-2012 | 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Bandit400man
Cool, thanks...yeah I hadn't planned on actually starting it until I got the right model rr figured out..still reading that long *** post Haha...thinkin on a sing ding dong pn fh012aa...am I on the right track?
yes,you on right track,what bites is that you might have to get new battery.its a maybe,the R/R could have ruined the battery,which in turn,could ruin a new R/R when you put it on.but you haven't been running it since,you you might have saved it.
if the battery is old,than you do want a newer battery,old technology wont work good with newer technology.
Old 06-25-2012 | 08:44 AM
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Oh an a quick search on fleabay turned up an FH020AA as a updated version of the aforementioned FH012AA? Any EE's out there have any insight?
Old 06-25-2012 | 08:46 AM
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Thanks saige...the battery looks newer..which doesn't say much lol...I'll just have to test it like aja said...but like I said it just cut right out cold..so I'm hoping minimal damage was done...
Old 06-25-2012 | 09:27 AM
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Sorry I was away this weekend at a youth retreat with no technology or I would have chimed in. This same thing happened to me a week ago. Doing about 70ish on the highway and suddenly, nothing. All power gone. Got it towed, got home, did some t-shootin and found the fuse on the ignition relay was blown. Two days later I had to bump start the bike because the battery was to low to start it. Ordered a new R/R, changed it out in my work parking lot and now it is running like a champ. I got a new one, aftermarket, shipped it two day from regulatorrectifier.com. Super huge heat sink and over sized to handle the power better. Seems to work well, will have to see the longevity. At $89 I may buy another one just to have around.
Old 06-25-2012 | 09:46 AM
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Got a part number to share?
Old 06-25-2012 | 09:59 AM
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You spent @almost 90bucks. Mine was 50 bucks with free shipping. OP look for a 08 Kawasaki zx6r r/r and go from there. You can first d them cheap
Old 06-25-2012 | 10:52 AM
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Went from there...TONS of options...just crazy to see the price spread...like $20 to over $100...
And funds are tight now (well, all the time LOL) so I'm trying to stay away from the 'get what ya pay for' mantra...
Old 06-25-2012 | 11:38 AM
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Stay away from regulatorrectifier.com, they sell junk and over price it.

Do a search for local motorcycle salvage yards, you may find it cheaper there
Old 06-25-2012 | 11:41 AM
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http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=64346908180

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=00189070842

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=98880765773

Just a few that were cheap. Sorry about the mobile links.
Old 06-25-2012 | 11:55 AM
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Don't be sorry about the Mobil links lol I'm on my phone too, while I pretend to work
LOVE the smart phones lol
Old 06-25-2012 | 12:02 PM
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How about this one?
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=11101823807
That's one of the few that explicitly state FH instead of SH...
Old 06-25-2012 | 02:09 PM
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UPDATE!!

So I tested the battery...
Key off, at the terminal- 12.55VDC
Key on, lights on, all that- 12.0somethinVDC

So this is telling me my battery may have been spared? 12V seems spot on for a 12 volt battery...

Also, I may spring for this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-SHIND...624e04&vxp=mtr

It's pricy, but would give me a warm fuzzy knowing it would work AND look sexy doin it...

Last edited by Bandit400man; 06-25-2012 at 02:14 PM.



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