Better headlight upgrade?
09-12-2008 | 03:12 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 987
From: San Diego, CA
Better headlight upgrade?
I'm surprised I didn't find more threads on this. My stock light is weak, and doesn't feel safe at night. With oncoming cars at night on winding roads, I sometimes have to just take a wild guess where the road is.
What are you guys running, what do you recommend?
Silverstar?
HID?
HID with projector?
Newer cars on the freeway behind me cast a freakin' shadow ahead of me! I need something brighter.
I saw an HID upgrade with projector on here, but it almost seemed like a bad thing having the beam cut off so sharply. I could imagine being leaned in a turn and being able to see less through the turn than even the stock light.
What are you guys running, what do you recommend?
Silverstar?
HID?
HID with projector?
Newer cars on the freeway behind me cast a freakin' shadow ahead of me! I need something brighter.
I saw an HID upgrade with projector on here, but it almost seemed like a bad thing having the beam cut off so sharply. I could imagine being leaned in a turn and being able to see less through the turn than even the stock light.
09-12-2008 | 03:31 PM
#2
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Superstock
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 499
From: Kansas City
HID is sweet but spendy and time consuming...quickest fix is an H4 silverstar (or the like) bulb...that's what i did and it made a big difference for me
not up to HID standards, but much better than stock
not up to HID standards, but much better than stock
09-12-2008 | 04:08 PM
#3
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SuperSport
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 702
From: Bham, AL
central, see my G35 projector thread in the gen. section. Also see Anto's retro.
As for the beam being sharp, well newer bikes also have sharp cutoffs on their stock projectors. My buddies R1 has pretty sharp cutoff and I didn't have that bg of an issue riding on the curvy roads at night. It takes some getting used to and you will find you'll use your high beam more so you can see better but its not as bad as it seems.
I have ceased working on my headlight ever since my radiator took a dump on me. Gotta get the priorities straight ya know
. As soon as I get my radiator issue fixed I'll get back to finishing up my retro. Bixenon is DEFINITELY the way to go on this bike as opposed to buying one of those drop in plug-n-play HID kits. Those things are not made with good components and usually have issues or give "decent" HID lighting. Still nothing better than a HID projector as those are designed to utilize HID light as opposed to our stock halogen designed reflectors. HID emits light in a different wave pattern than halogen filament does. Often your beam will be messed up or not ideal if you use a drop in kit.
If you have any in depth questions regarding HID lighting please feel free to sign up on our forum. www.hidplanet.com/forums = #1 resource for HID knowledge and equipment. I am one of the admins on there and will be more than happy to help you with any questions you might have.
Silverstars are ok but nothing too much more than stock. I did notice a improvement over stock but you'll still find them "weak" as you put.
As for the beam being sharp, well newer bikes also have sharp cutoffs on their stock projectors. My buddies R1 has pretty sharp cutoff and I didn't have that bg of an issue riding on the curvy roads at night. It takes some getting used to and you will find you'll use your high beam more so you can see better but its not as bad as it seems.
I have ceased working on my headlight ever since my radiator took a dump on me. Gotta get the priorities straight ya know
. As soon as I get my radiator issue fixed I'll get back to finishing up my retro. Bixenon is DEFINITELY the way to go on this bike as opposed to buying one of those drop in plug-n-play HID kits. Those things are not made with good components and usually have issues or give "decent" HID lighting. Still nothing better than a HID projector as those are designed to utilize HID light as opposed to our stock halogen designed reflectors. HID emits light in a different wave pattern than halogen filament does. Often your beam will be messed up or not ideal if you use a drop in kit.If you have any in depth questions regarding HID lighting please feel free to sign up on our forum. www.hidplanet.com/forums = #1 resource for HID knowledge and equipment. I am one of the admins on there and will be more than happy to help you with any questions you might have.
Silverstars are ok but nothing too much more than stock. I did notice a improvement over stock but you'll still find them "weak" as you put.
Last edited by haknslash; 09-12-2008 at 04:14 PM.
09-12-2008 | 04:56 PM
#4
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,109
From: Skurup, Sweden
The most "bang for buck improvement" possible is a set of relays and nice fat cables directly from the battery... With stock wiring you are probably getting ~10-12 to your headlight... This is because it goes through the handlebar switch and also because the wires are ridiculously thin...
A H4 bulb should have 13-13.5V... anything else than that and the efficiency drops like a stone...
The stock bulb gives plently of light once this is fixed, a silverstar or similar is even better...
Allthough, I'm still thinking of a HID retrofit... just need to find the parts cheap...
A H4 bulb should have 13-13.5V... anything else than that and the efficiency drops like a stone...
The stock bulb gives plently of light once this is fixed, a silverstar or similar is even better...
Allthough, I'm still thinking of a HID retrofit... just need to find the parts cheap...
09-12-2008 | 05:25 PM
#5
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 268
From: San Diego
You're in San Diego too!!
I say retro all the way.
If you do alot of night riding, you GOTTA come check out my setup sometime. I installed a 50w ballast with a 50w bulb, with a bixenon FX/TSX clearlens projector. OH man it's bright. The picture above is only 35w
Come by so I can convince you to retro, lol
I could probably help you a little too
09-12-2008 | 05:33 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 987
From: San Diego, CA
Where in SD are you? I have the most trouble through Rancho Sante Fe, usually taking the winding way back from a ride, the trees in there are thick and it's soo dark at night.
I'm in Mira Mesa btw.
I'm in Mira Mesa btw.
09-12-2008 | 05:33 PM
#7
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 702
From: Bham, AL
The most "bang for buck improvement" possible is a set of relays and nice fat cables directly from the battery... With stock wiring you are probably getting ~10-12 to your headlight... This is because it goes through the handlebar switch and also because the wires are ridiculously thin...
A H4 bulb should have 13-13.5V... anything else than that and the efficiency drops like a stone...
The stock bulb gives plently of light once this is fixed, a silverstar or similar is even better...
Allthough, I'm still thinking of a HID retrofit... just need to find the parts cheap...
A H4 bulb should have 13-13.5V... anything else than that and the efficiency drops like a stone...
The stock bulb gives plently of light once this is fixed, a silverstar or similar is even better...
Allthough, I'm still thinking of a HID retrofit... just need to find the parts cheap...
Tweety, if you need help with finding parts, let me know and I'll help you get what you need by finding you some good deals. There are tons of good deals to be had, just have to do a little research or know the supply/demand market for HID OEM components. I'm sure Anto and I can help you.
09-12-2008 | 05:37 PM
#8
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 702
From: Bham, AL
But please post up some 35w vs 50w comparison bike pics when you get some free time. I never get tired of seeing the comparisons on HIDP. I know one day I'll get around to doing 50W but just don't have the time or funds right now.
BTW, Did you see IvoryGT's thread on thos DL35s? They look nice but are pricey. Not a bad idea for 35watter-folks. Then again for the cost of the bulbs you could of went 50w lol.
09-12-2008 | 08:58 PM
#9
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 268
From: San Diego
LOL, you don't say!
I work in rancho santa fe all the time, in fact i'm here right now, on my phone.
and i'm also in mira mesa all the time too, off capricorn near the park.
I live in linda vista.
I work in rancho santa fe all the time, in fact i'm here right now, on my phone.
and i'm also in mira mesa all the time too, off capricorn near the park.
I live in linda vista.
09-13-2008 | 03:23 AM
#11
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,109
From: Skurup, Sweden
Well either you spend money buying a kit... Rather costly If you ask me... Here is one example... www.easternbeaver.com
The DIY version is simple... Your local DIY store or autoparts store should have all of it on the shelf for a few bucks... I'm not sure about the measurements listed at your end...
3,5-4 mm squared in cable width should be plenty, If you wan't to be real hardcore, do one for highbeam and one for lowbeam... Omron G8MS-**** relays or comparable should also be a shelf item... This is only an example, just make sure it's weather proof though... A H4 socket and plug, to make it possible to reverse this is optional... I just cut the cables... Some spade connectors, and ring connectors for the battery terminals, and an fuse/fuseholder on the positive line...
Note: If you want to be able to restore the original, you will have to use an H4 socket and plug, not in my instructions...
1. Run two cables (pos/neg) to the front, along the cable channels, put the fuse holder on the positive, close to the battery under the saddle, and put on ring connectors...
2. Connect the positive cable to the feed lines (input) on the relays (short wire to the second relay) and find a good place up close to the headlight for the relays...
3. Connect the drain (output) of the relays to the headlight, lowbeam on one relay and highbeam on the other...
4. The negative wire (ground) connects up directly to the headligh H4 plug...
5. The stock headlight cables coming from the handlebar switch is connected to the coil on the relays, mind the high/low beam orientation... Also the stock ground connects to the ground on the relay...
6. For obvious reasons make sure all connectors are sealed up to be weather protected, using electricians tape or vulcanizing tape, no substitutes allowed...
The result is that the switch and the stock wiring only supply voltage to operate the relay, and the shoddy wiring is more than enough for that...
Now when you test it the light will be bright white, even with the stock bulb, not the yellow light that indicates that the bulb is underpowered... An good quality bulb like the Silvania or such, possibly even a higher wattage than stock and then you are set...
Just don't look directly into the headlight at close range when testing... Don't ask me why I know...
Edit: I forgot to add... The relays and dedicated wiring isn't a bad idea to start with even if you are considering a HID upgrade... as hak said eairlier (In another thread) that he was using relays to power the ballast, it should be possible to just re-use the wires and possibly even the relays...
The DIY version is simple... Your local DIY store or autoparts store should have all of it on the shelf for a few bucks... I'm not sure about the measurements listed at your end...
3,5-4 mm squared in cable width should be plenty, If you wan't to be real hardcore, do one for highbeam and one for lowbeam... Omron G8MS-**** relays or comparable should also be a shelf item... This is only an example, just make sure it's weather proof though... A H4 socket and plug, to make it possible to reverse this is optional... I just cut the cables... Some spade connectors, and ring connectors for the battery terminals, and an fuse/fuseholder on the positive line...
Note: If you want to be able to restore the original, you will have to use an H4 socket and plug, not in my instructions...
1. Run two cables (pos/neg) to the front, along the cable channels, put the fuse holder on the positive, close to the battery under the saddle, and put on ring connectors...
2. Connect the positive cable to the feed lines (input) on the relays (short wire to the second relay) and find a good place up close to the headlight for the relays...
3. Connect the drain (output) of the relays to the headlight, lowbeam on one relay and highbeam on the other...
4. The negative wire (ground) connects up directly to the headligh H4 plug...
5. The stock headlight cables coming from the handlebar switch is connected to the coil on the relays, mind the high/low beam orientation... Also the stock ground connects to the ground on the relay...
6. For obvious reasons make sure all connectors are sealed up to be weather protected, using electricians tape or vulcanizing tape, no substitutes allowed...
The result is that the switch and the stock wiring only supply voltage to operate the relay, and the shoddy wiring is more than enough for that...
Now when you test it the light will be bright white, even with the stock bulb, not the yellow light that indicates that the bulb is underpowered... An good quality bulb like the Silvania or such, possibly even a higher wattage than stock and then you are set...
Just don't look directly into the headlight at close range when testing... Don't ask me why I know...
Edit: I forgot to add... The relays and dedicated wiring isn't a bad idea to start with even if you are considering a HID upgrade... as hak said eairlier (In another thread) that he was using relays to power the ballast, it should be possible to just re-use the wires and possibly even the relays...
Last edited by Tweety; 09-13-2008 at 07:24 AM.
09-14-2008 | 12:03 PM
#12
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 226
From: Olympia, WA
Here's a link to the Moto Guzzi Forum where they discuss the same topic... Includes illustrations and parts supplier info for those that want to make their own headlight relay kit.
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/inde...t%20relay&st=0
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/inde...t%20relay&st=0
09-14-2008 | 07:41 PM
#14
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SuperBike
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,216
From: Westerly, RI
$48 for the easternbeaver.com setup isn't so bad. Once you consider the quality of his connectors, all of the heat shrinking, and the ease and simplicity of installation.
You might beat his price by $20, but you'll be heating everything, trying to crimp the connectors on, trying to get two wires into one connector, etc.
I like do it yourself projects, but damn, that's not a bad price for the quality and simple installation that you get.
My $.02
Erik
You might beat his price by $20, but you'll be heating everything, trying to crimp the connectors on, trying to get two wires into one connector, etc.
I like do it yourself projects, but damn, that's not a bad price for the quality and simple installation that you get.
My $.02
Erik
09-15-2008 | 10:07 AM
#17
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,109
From: Skurup, Sweden
Good to know... Here's what happens according to Hella's website...
Light output, or luminous intensity drops off faster than the voltage drops because of the relationship between the two.
100% voltage = 100% intensity
95% voltage = 83% intensity
90% voltage = 67% intensity
85% voltage = 53% intensity
A H4 bulb is designed to operate near the 14V your alternator puts out. If you are only getting 12V from the battery when the lights are on, you will only be producing 1/2 of the possible light output.
100% voltage = 100% intensity
95% voltage = 83% intensity
90% voltage = 67% intensity
85% voltage = 53% intensity
A H4 bulb is designed to operate near the 14V your alternator puts out. If you are only getting 12V from the battery when the lights are on, you will only be producing 1/2 of the possible light output.
Last edited by Tweety; 09-19-2008 at 05:26 AM.
09-15-2008 | 05:22 PM
#18
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 310
I'm very intrigued by the easternbeaver.com set-up would this be a plug and play application for a superhawk? relays etc scare me but i could defiantly plug it in...for $50 it looks like a good kit...anyone have any idea?
09-15-2008 | 06:15 PM
#21
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 758
is this a bulb that you can just throw into the fixture and thats it, or is there any other modifications needed? also, will it work for any year of superhawk? im not familiar with any electrical differences other than the cluster.
09-15-2008 | 10:14 PM
#22
Senior Member
SuperBike
SuperBike
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,031
From: Los Angeles ish
Yes, it's a direct replacement (at least mine was). I bought mine at Kragen, but probably any auto parts store will have 'em. However, you want to get a 3-prong one. I think they make separates for hi/low also.
Last edited by Gregw; 09-15-2008 at 10:16 PM.
09-16-2008 | 07:22 AM
#24
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 310
09-17-2008 | 01:41 PM
#27
Thread Starter
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SuperSport
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 987
From: San Diego, CA
Silverstars in my experience to put out more watts, yet filter some of the yellow out, which hurts output. I've had trouble getting them to last more than a year or two in my cars.
09-17-2008 | 10:55 PM
#28
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 226
From: Olympia, WA
... Not to the same extreme, but you get the point.
09-18-2008 | 06:40 AM
#29
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SuperBike
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,216
From: Westerly, RI
That's what you want, less yellow and more white. More white creates more contrast and thus better vision.
The lenght that the bulbs are lasting sucks, but worth it to see better at night.
Next bulb for me is the Hella Xenon XP. H4, 55/60W, 4000K.
09-18-2008 | 11:17 PM
#30
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 226
From: Olympia, WA
Here's a headlight review... They recommend:
Top 3
Top 3
- Halfords Super Brilliance
- Philips Power2Night 150
- Philips VisionPlus
