APE CCT broke
07-03-2010 | 11:45 AM
#1
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Superstock
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
APE CCT broke
I just installed APE CCTs on my bike. I was trying to adjust the tension after I put the bike back together, and the top hex head (not the locking nut) on the bolt came loose from the bolt. It looks like it is held in place by a pin that is pushed into the side of the hex head, but that pin is now sticking out of the hex head, and the head spins freely and doesn't spin the bolt anymore.
Does anyone know a way to fix this? I can think of three possible solutions, but not sure which one, if any, will work.
1. JB Weld the hex head to the bolt. Not sure if this will hold strong enough for me to torque on it.
2. Red Lock-tite. Again, not sure it will hold strong enough, and is it any stronger than JB Weld?
3. Fix the pin on the hex head somehow so that it holds on to the bolt again. Not sure how to do this though.
Any suggestions? Is there anything stronger than JB Weld? Has this happened to anyone else? I'll call APE if I have to, but I'd rather fix what's already on the bike instead of disassemble and reinstall CCTs again.
P.S.: I don't have access to a welder.
Does anyone know a way to fix this? I can think of three possible solutions, but not sure which one, if any, will work.
1. JB Weld the hex head to the bolt. Not sure if this will hold strong enough for me to torque on it.
2. Red Lock-tite. Again, not sure it will hold strong enough, and is it any stronger than JB Weld?
3. Fix the pin on the hex head somehow so that it holds on to the bolt again. Not sure how to do this though.
Any suggestions? Is there anything stronger than JB Weld? Has this happened to anyone else? I'll call APE if I have to, but I'd rather fix what's already on the bike instead of disassemble and reinstall CCTs again.
P.S.: I don't have access to a welder.
07-03-2010 | 02:03 PM
#3
Administrator
MotoGP
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,402
From: Kempner, TX
If it were mine or a bike I was working on...
The CCT would come off.. I would remove the roll pin, and insert another... if you can not do that... toss the thing in a bag and send it back to APE for a replacment.
Where are you located at? Perhaps someone close can assist.
The CCT would come off.. I would remove the roll pin, and insert another... if you can not do that... toss the thing in a bag and send it back to APE for a replacment.
Where are you located at? Perhaps someone close can assist.
07-03-2010 | 06:53 PM
#4
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 667
From: NY State
you can buy those pins at a hardware store, I think they are called torsion pins. Bring the APE with you for fit. You could also weld the nut on if you have a welder. I do not think that your 3 solutions will be strong enough.
You could also do the 2-nut thing on the end of the shaft - that is 2 nuts tightened against each other with red locktite. Since it is just an adjuster nut, you could get away with it as a plan-b approach.
You could also do the 2-nut thing on the end of the shaft - that is 2 nuts tightened against each other with red locktite. Since it is just an adjuster nut, you could get away with it as a plan-b approach.
07-03-2010 | 08:06 PM
#5
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MotoGP
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,451
From: San Clemente, CA
JB Weld, if left to cure long enough (at least 24 hours) is strong as hell.
If the roll pin isn't broken, you should be able to line it up with the hole in the stud and drive it back in. I would remove the CCT from the engine before trying this though.
If the roll pin isn't broken, you should be able to line it up with the hole in the stud and drive it back in. I would remove the CCT from the engine before trying this though.
Last edited by VTRsurfer; 07-03-2010 at 08:26 PM.
07-05-2010 | 10:49 AM
#6
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Superstock
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
I tried the 2-nut thing (insert jokes below). It worked well enough for me to do the adjustment, so thanks for the advise. I wouldn't have thought of that.
Also, just FYI, the JB Weld wasn't strong enough in this case. I guess it was too thin an application to give it any strength, even after 48 hours and some moderate heat (idling the bike until the bolt was heating up).
Also, just FYI, the JB Weld wasn't strong enough in this case. I guess it was too thin an application to give it any strength, even after 48 hours and some moderate heat (idling the bike until the bolt was heating up).
07-05-2010 | 12:34 PM
#7
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 154
From: Cochrane, AB
I tried the 2-nut thing (insert jokes below). It worked well enough for me to do the adjustment, so thanks for the advise. I wouldn't have thought of that.
Also, just FYI, the JB Weld wasn't strong enough in this case. I guess it was too thin an application to give it any strength, even after 48 hours and some moderate heat (idling the bike until the bolt was heating up).
Also, just FYI, the JB Weld wasn't strong enough in this case. I guess it was too thin an application to give it any strength, even after 48 hours and some moderate heat (idling the bike until the bolt was heating up).
If the two nut thing worked I would just set it and forget it. For how often you have to adjust them I don't think it would be to big of a deal.
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