moved the hose to the right spot.. ideal is well it works!! and that's new for me.. before it wouldn't ideal for more then minute with out stalling and then you had to choke it and roll for a while before it would start again.. haven’t had a chance to take it for a run yet but I'm very optimistic that it's going to work!
fingers crossed
thanks for the kind comments!

 

The good news is the motor is running great!! and my first spirited twist of the wrist left me white knuckled and smiling ear to ear!! that damn thing goes!!
BUT -On to the next problem..
As the motor warmed the clutch began to slip, so I read and read on this last night, but one thing I was thinking was not listed so I thought I would just ask

QUESTION
I replaced the leavers,
Cheap ebay leavers
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/general-discussion-30/cheapo-ebay-leavers-25103/

When the clutch leaver installs the piston is pushed in a very small amount in order to get the pin(bolt) to go through and mount the leaver, this pressure can not be released as the leaver is at full extension..
1. is this normal?
2. I bled the lines and notice as soon as I opened the bleeder screw fluid shot out.

Based on # 2 I’m thinking that the clutch was partially engaged even when my hand was off the leaver and I needed to bleed off this pressure before I road?

NOTE:
The fluid was not fluid.. it was thick paste.. never seen anything like that before.. basically just mud.. I flushed the lines all new fluid – have not rode it as I did this last night.

Oil- I used the oil I use in my SV650, Rottela T6 Synthetic 5W30. Could the oil be the cause of my problem?

Thanks again

 

The oil shouldn't be the problem, it probably is the lever.

 

should releasing the pressure solve the problem? the other option is I cut the "Push Rod" that is pushing on the piston

 

you shouldnt have to cut anything,by cutting it,you will have almost no movement,probably none.
you should try bleeding it thru again,or make sure you got the right lever installed on there.
the clutch doesnt have far to travel in the first place,have you rode the motorcycle yet to see if it gives any problems shifting.
but overall,you should just make sure its bled thru properly and test ride it.if there is no grinds or anything like that,i would think its good to go.

 

If you have to grind something grind the lever at the contact point, and if the old fluid was as bad a you say a rebuild kit would be in order.

My bad that is what you were talking about grinding.

 

I would flush that system a few times with fresh fluid, then refill and bleed. Depending on your temperatures the 5w could cause slight slipping, but that is not very likely. You should know that these clutches engage very near mid release of the lever, and don't fully engage until around 3/4 release, so don't let that throw you off.

 

Bleed the system properly, and then bleed at the top banjo bolt as well... It's very likely that it's just air in the system and nothing wrong with your levers...

 

Issues are over!! New fluid solved the problem!! Clutch is hooking up perfectly. So finally I can say I have a fully functional SUPERHAWK!!!

Thanks again for all he help!

 

Something I find on ALL bikes that I have picked up over the years is that nobody seems to realize that the pivot points on the lever also require lubrication. I have felt some really notchy, grabby, squeaky levers over the years. Do yourself a favor and lube both clutch and brake levers at ALL the pivot/contact points. Clean off all the old gunk too. You'll be happy you did.