Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
#1
Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
I am a firm believer that suspension mods are the best mods that one can justify spending money on. I also can not afford to change the stock suspension on both ends of the bike to a higher end one, even though I know how good it will be.
So, here are some questions:
1- Racetech says I should have .91 or so rated springs, and that stock ones are .58 or something like that. For those who have used this calculator, how accurate have you found the information to be? Has anyone gone with the recommended value as per their website, and been unhappy with the results?
(see website here: http://www.racetech.com/evalving/Spr...pringType=Fork)
2- If I change the front springs, without touching the rear, is it going to be a waste, as now the stock shock is going to act more strangely?
3- could you post your optimal settings to help others like me find the best scenario for themselves? please post spring rate, preload spacer length, oil weight, and your riding style, and your own weight - gear not included.
Thanks.
So, here are some questions:
1- Racetech says I should have .91 or so rated springs, and that stock ones are .58 or something like that. For those who have used this calculator, how accurate have you found the information to be? Has anyone gone with the recommended value as per their website, and been unhappy with the results?
(see website here: http://www.racetech.com/evalving/Spr...pringType=Fork)
2- If I change the front springs, without touching the rear, is it going to be a waste, as now the stock shock is going to act more strangely?
3- could you post your optimal settings to help others like me find the best scenario for themselves? please post spring rate, preload spacer length, oil weight, and your riding style, and your own weight - gear not included.
Thanks.
#2
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Re: Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
The Racetech calculator said that I needed .9kg/m springs, but I went with .85, which I'm very happy with. Brake dive is way better, and handling is considerably better. I also raised the fork tubes 7mm in the triple clamps to compensate for my less saggy front suspension. Whatever you do, I wouldn't go with the 'track' (1+kg/m) settings on the racetech site.
#3
Re: Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
I'm 6'1" and 230 lbs.
I went with .95 springs and the Gold Valve cartridge emulators..etc..etc.(basically, their whole package)
Brake dive has improved dramatically, and it's still "freeway comfy".
My problem is in the cayon's, it seems to have too much rebound force/speed and not enough compression resistance. You don't notice it on the freeway, but in the irregular roads of the Santa Monica Mountains, it "rebounds" twice as hard as it compresses. It seems to compress too easily, but rebounds forcefully.
I'm still fiddling with the settings, as Racetech's "reccomended" as delivered settings were WAY, WAY, WAY out of wack. I'm contemplating sending them back for re-valving again, but I'm going to keep fidding with them hoping I can dial them in.
Btw, I dropped 15mm in front and up 15mm in the rear. Makes a big difference in turn in.
I went with .95 springs and the Gold Valve cartridge emulators..etc..etc.(basically, their whole package)
Brake dive has improved dramatically, and it's still "freeway comfy".
My problem is in the cayon's, it seems to have too much rebound force/speed and not enough compression resistance. You don't notice it on the freeway, but in the irregular roads of the Santa Monica Mountains, it "rebounds" twice as hard as it compresses. It seems to compress too easily, but rebounds forcefully.
I'm still fiddling with the settings, as Racetech's "reccomended" as delivered settings were WAY, WAY, WAY out of wack. I'm contemplating sending them back for re-valving again, but I'm going to keep fidding with them hoping I can dial them in.
Btw, I dropped 15mm in front and up 15mm in the rear. Makes a big difference in turn in.
#4
I went with the Race Tech .85 springs with Gold Valve Emulators and it makes a world of difference. No more severe brake dive or engine braking dive. Definately a must for the S/Hawk if you want any kind of performance out of it.
I am still playing around with fluid weight/height to find a good blend.
I have not touched the rear shock yet. Not by choice ($$$). The rear should get you by for a little while, just play with the settings, and add a rear shim for ride height.
Probably end up going with a Fox shock in rear (unless I come into some serious cash) the Ohlins or Penske would be my choice.
I am still playing around with fluid weight/height to find a good blend.
I have not touched the rear shock yet. Not by choice ($$$). The rear should get you by for a little while, just play with the settings, and add a rear shim for ride height.
Probably end up going with a Fox shock in rear (unless I come into some serious cash) the Ohlins or Penske would be my choice.
#5
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I went with the Race Tech .85 springs with Gold Valve Emulators and it makes a world of difference. No more severe brake dive or engine braking dive. Definately a must for the S/Hawk if you want any kind of performance out of it.
I am still playing around with fluid weight/height to find a good blend.
I have not touched the rear shock yet. Not by choice ($$$). The rear should get you by for a little while, just play with the settings, and add a rear shim for ride height.
Probably end up going with a Fox shock in rear (unless I come into some serious cash) the Ohlins or Penske would be my choice.
I am still playing around with fluid weight/height to find a good blend.
I have not touched the rear shock yet. Not by choice ($$$). The rear should get you by for a little while, just play with the settings, and add a rear shim for ride height.
Probably end up going with a Fox shock in rear (unless I come into some serious cash) the Ohlins or Penske would be my choice.
#9
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Re: Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
Faz, I'm about the same weight as you and run .85s. The bike came with .95s that Michael put in and the correct springs make a big difference.
Regarding changing springs and valves.
Changing the springs is a 10 minute job and needs no dismantling other then the fork caps.
Changing the valves involves dismantling the forks and is a 90 minute job at best.
Regarding changing springs and valves.
Changing the springs is a 10 minute job and needs no dismantling other then the fork caps.
Changing the valves involves dismantling the forks and is a 90 minute job at best.
#10
Re: Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
wow... 10 minutes?? I had seen the SV650 spring/fork oil change site that showed changing it without taking the forks off, but didn't think it could apply here too (the rebound damping screw on top.)
In that case, I will order a set of springs to come and do the change sometime myself. I know it will help to revalve as well, but I think I will leave that until afterwards, to see how I like just the spring change.
Thanks thump.
In that case, I will order a set of springs to come and do the change sometime myself. I know it will help to revalve as well, but I think I will leave that until afterwards, to see how I like just the spring change.
Thanks thump.
#11
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Re: Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
Here is what I've done....
>>Getting the most from your suspension<<
Take it for what it is worth, but my VTR handles VERY well on the track, and on the normal roads I ride here in Japan.
I've never had a "moment" on the bike due to the suspension, due to my lack of skills, sure, but not the suspension.
This set-up works well. I've had some racer buddies take the VTR out for a spin and come back saying how they were really pleasantly surprised at how well the bike handles.
I've been using Bridgestone 002 (medium) pros, they stick like crazy
Spend the money on the suspension, that is really all the bike needs, you want MORE POWER.... buy a GSXR10000 :wink:
OK off my soapbox
Cheers!
>>Getting the most from your suspension<<
Take it for what it is worth, but my VTR handles VERY well on the track, and on the normal roads I ride here in Japan.
I've never had a "moment" on the bike due to the suspension, due to my lack of skills, sure, but not the suspension.
This set-up works well. I've had some racer buddies take the VTR out for a spin and come back saying how they were really pleasantly surprised at how well the bike handles.
I've been using Bridgestone 002 (medium) pros, they stick like crazy
Spend the money on the suspension, that is really all the bike needs, you want MORE POWER.... buy a GSXR10000 :wink:
OK off my soapbox
Cheers!
#12
just an FYI...
I was talking to the Race tech sales team (called their number from their website) and asked how much weight do they default for the gear. Their calculator asks for rider weight only, without the gear. He said 15 lbs. I said my gear is probably more than that, as I wear full leather/boots/etc. He recommended that I should just weigh myself wearing all of the gear, reduce it by 15 lbs, and put that number in their calculator. He also said from his experience and feedback from other customers, that their calculator is dead on with suggested values. (well, I know, what else is he gonna say, but he sounded absolutely sure.)
I am going to change the springs to .95 and see how that feels, and leave the valves untouched for now.
BTW, what kind/weight of fork oil are people using here??
thanks.
I was talking to the Race tech sales team (called their number from their website) and asked how much weight do they default for the gear. Their calculator asks for rider weight only, without the gear. He said 15 lbs. I said my gear is probably more than that, as I wear full leather/boots/etc. He recommended that I should just weigh myself wearing all of the gear, reduce it by 15 lbs, and put that number in their calculator. He also said from his experience and feedback from other customers, that their calculator is dead on with suggested values. (well, I know, what else is he gonna say, but he sounded absolutely sure.)
I am going to change the springs to .95 and see how that feels, and leave the valves untouched for now.
BTW, what kind/weight of fork oil are people using here??
thanks.
#13
Re: Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
Here's what racetech used for my setup.
Type 1 Gold Valves
.95kg/mm springs 20mm preload
Oil ultra slick US "2"
Oil Level 155mm
Compression valving cH 36
Rebound Valving rH R-19A
Compression adjuster - out
Rebound adjuster 1 1/2 out
Somma that stuff only RaceTech guys understand. "as delivered" from race-tech, it was WAY too soft. (adjusters were all turned out). It's taken me about 500 miles of commuting/canyon riding to get it where I like it.
Type 1 Gold Valves
.95kg/mm springs 20mm preload
Oil ultra slick US "2"
Oil Level 155mm
Compression valving cH 36
Rebound Valving rH R-19A
Compression adjuster - out
Rebound adjuster 1 1/2 out
Somma that stuff only RaceTech guys understand. "as delivered" from race-tech, it was WAY too soft. (adjusters were all turned out). It's taken me about 500 miles of commuting/canyon riding to get it where I like it.
#14
Thanks everyone for the info.
I got together with thump (live in the same area), and put his left over .9 springs in the forks. (he basically did all of the work for me... thanks thump.) The oil was sort of reddish in color, and looked pretty good (from the drops that fell off of the springs when changing it.) We didn't change the oil or anything, but I suspec the previous owner may have already changed the oil (as the front end didn't seem too soft to begin with.)
the front end feels a lot better now, it doesn't bottom out when going over the drive way curbs and such, and it doesn't dive/play as much when off/on gas/brakes.
thanks all.
I got together with thump (live in the same area), and put his left over .9 springs in the forks. (he basically did all of the work for me... thanks thump.) The oil was sort of reddish in color, and looked pretty good (from the drops that fell off of the springs when changing it.) We didn't change the oil or anything, but I suspec the previous owner may have already changed the oil (as the front end didn't seem too soft to begin with.)
the front end feels a lot better now, it doesn't bottom out when going over the drive way curbs and such, and it doesn't dive/play as much when off/on gas/brakes.
thanks all.
#16
Thanks thump, it is good to know a definite actual value.
I asked Micheal in a pm and he said ".9", but then again he said "IIRC" so it is good to know that paperwork trails prove a .95 .
And you are right... it is just the right value. I like them stiffer a bit anyways, and with my weight/etc., the racetech site suggests .917 for street and .979 for racing. the middle is good for what I intent to do.
#18
Re: Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
Don't know if it will be of any use, but just some of my experience.
I have Hyperpro full-progressive springs with 7.5 oil in front, and it really works very well for me. I am not particular lightweight man, just average - 82 kilograms.
I had same kind of setup in one of my previous bikes and it was just as good as with Hawk (my previous bike was Honda Hornet 600 of 2000 - obviously European version).
Those springs have all-different spring rate, not just 2 rates as on usual progressive springs, and it is 100 mm longler that original, requires complete removal of spacer and need to be installed "upside down" comparing to stock springs.
I know lot of track addicts will say "oh, progressive are for amateurs" - but I am, I am not racer and those springs giving best combination of compfort and handling improvement per my experience so far. And lifetime warranty - which means company fairly sure about springs fading.
For straight-rate per my knowledge in Europe most "respected" straight-rate springs - Ohlins.
At rear I have now (not for long time, just a week) Wilbers/Technoflex fully adjustable shock absorber and bike improved just beatifully. That shock absorber are German made (they seem to have stolen design from Technoflex, so some long story behind). Doesn't matter, anyway, here is what you get for 615 Euro in Europe:
1. 22-click adjustable rebound
2. adjustable preload (smooth, not step-by-step)
3. Adjustable low-speed compression 22 clicks
4. Adjustable high-speed compression 22 clicks
5. Shock with remote reservoir
6. Spring fitted according to your weight and bike type (their shock absorbers are not "generic" but bike specific)
7. 20 000 km warranty
And generally extremely well made piece, not any worse than Ohlins or Penske. It is quite known and respectable in Europe make.
For additional money (about 200 Euros) you can have it with hydraulic preload adjuster and for another 100 Euro with length adjustement.
On my previous bike I had Ohlins, and it was not worse not better - except I like 2-speed compression adjustement on Wilbers. On my Ohlins I did not have it, so when in more "race mode" so small bumps was harder on my spine than with this Wilbers.
I also heard a lot of exceptionally good comments on White Power shock absorbers on Storm's (oops, sorry - in US, so on SuperHawks)
Hope I it'll help.
I have Hyperpro full-progressive springs with 7.5 oil in front, and it really works very well for me. I am not particular lightweight man, just average - 82 kilograms.
I had same kind of setup in one of my previous bikes and it was just as good as with Hawk (my previous bike was Honda Hornet 600 of 2000 - obviously European version).
Those springs have all-different spring rate, not just 2 rates as on usual progressive springs, and it is 100 mm longler that original, requires complete removal of spacer and need to be installed "upside down" comparing to stock springs.
I know lot of track addicts will say "oh, progressive are for amateurs" - but I am, I am not racer and those springs giving best combination of compfort and handling improvement per my experience so far. And lifetime warranty - which means company fairly sure about springs fading.
For straight-rate per my knowledge in Europe most "respected" straight-rate springs - Ohlins.
At rear I have now (not for long time, just a week) Wilbers/Technoflex fully adjustable shock absorber and bike improved just beatifully. That shock absorber are German made (they seem to have stolen design from Technoflex, so some long story behind). Doesn't matter, anyway, here is what you get for 615 Euro in Europe:
1. 22-click adjustable rebound
2. adjustable preload (smooth, not step-by-step)
3. Adjustable low-speed compression 22 clicks
4. Adjustable high-speed compression 22 clicks
5. Shock with remote reservoir
6. Spring fitted according to your weight and bike type (their shock absorbers are not "generic" but bike specific)
7. 20 000 km warranty
And generally extremely well made piece, not any worse than Ohlins or Penske. It is quite known and respectable in Europe make.
For additional money (about 200 Euros) you can have it with hydraulic preload adjuster and for another 100 Euro with length adjustement.
On my previous bike I had Ohlins, and it was not worse not better - except I like 2-speed compression adjustement on Wilbers. On my Ohlins I did not have it, so when in more "race mode" so small bumps was harder on my spine than with this Wilbers.
I also heard a lot of exceptionally good comments on White Power shock absorbers on Storm's (oops, sorry - in US, so on SuperHawks)
Hope I it'll help.
#19
Re: Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
rray-
for the rear, I picked up an Ohlins. It is by far the most "adjustable" shock I've ever had. I can make the rear super soft for long distance rides, or rock hard for track days. My only "beef" with it was that for $800, it is not length adjustable. Other than that, It just plain WORKS.
for the rear, I picked up an Ohlins. It is by far the most "adjustable" shock I've ever had. I can make the rear super soft for long distance rides, or rock hard for track days. My only "beef" with it was that for $800, it is not length adjustable. Other than that, It just plain WORKS.
#20
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Re: Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
Thank you all for your advice. I ended up ordering an Ohlins for the rear shock. I went throught this same process with my R1150GS BMW. Wilbers, Ohlins, Bitubos....all good stuff. I ended up with the Bitubos on my BMW and am happy with them.
In the end with this high quality equipment, it comes down to support and set up. I found a suspension guy who really knows Ohlins. I'm looking forward to seeing what the Hawk handles like with good suspenders.
In the end with this high quality equipment, it comes down to support and set up. I found a suspension guy who really knows Ohlins. I'm looking forward to seeing what the Hawk handles like with good suspenders.
#21
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Los Angeles, California, Canyons = SMM's, ACH,
Posts: 147
Re: Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
Random wrote:
but in the irregular roads of the Santa Monica Mountains,
===================================
This part of your post caught my eye,
I spend most Sundays in the Santa Monica Mountains. I get there early and leave by 11am do we know each other Random?
Here's what I look like, maybe we've seen each other at the Rock Store
http://www.labiker.com/members/?JeffGronert
As far as valving I understand the regular Gold Valves are compression
Then there's the rebound Gold Valves , that Race Tech recommends
My guess is the compression valves is what the shawk needs most
as my stock rebound can be adjusted to suit me, but stock compression is harsh over sharp edged bumps. I'm using Mobil 1 ATF that is apporx 7.5 weigh to help the harsh compression. Stock Honda SS-8 is approx 10 weight.
I know Greg on this list has the RT compression valving , using 5 weight fork oil, and had to remove the reboud step to get enough rebound adjustment. Did you ever get the RT rebound Gold Valves Greg?
~Jeffers
but in the irregular roads of the Santa Monica Mountains,
===================================
This part of your post caught my eye,
I spend most Sundays in the Santa Monica Mountains. I get there early and leave by 11am do we know each other Random?
Here's what I look like, maybe we've seen each other at the Rock Store
http://www.labiker.com/members/?JeffGronert
As far as valving I understand the regular Gold Valves are compression
Then there's the rebound Gold Valves , that Race Tech recommends
My guess is the compression valves is what the shawk needs most
as my stock rebound can be adjusted to suit me, but stock compression is harsh over sharp edged bumps. I'm using Mobil 1 ATF that is apporx 7.5 weigh to help the harsh compression. Stock Honda SS-8 is approx 10 weight.
I know Greg on this list has the RT compression valving , using 5 weight fork oil, and had to remove the reboud step to get enough rebound adjustment. Did you ever get the RT rebound Gold Valves Greg?
~Jeffers
#22
Re: Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
Jeffers,
Are you referring to the 5mm grind of the damper rod? I've seen that mod published on a Japan VTR webpage but haven't heard feedback from anyone who's done it. Greg maybe? I've been itching to try it but.....
Doug
PS 111k miles on your VTR? WOW, that's the highest I've seen. Please list in a new thread your "history" with it.
#23
Re: Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
I spend most Sundays in the Santa Monica Mountains. I get there early and leave by 11am do we know each other Random?
Here's what I look like, maybe we've seen each other at the Rock Store
http://www.labiker.com/members/?JeffGronert
Here's what I look like, maybe we've seen each other at the Rock Store
http://www.labiker.com/members/?JeffGronert
#24
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Los Angeles, California, Canyons = SMM's, ACH,
Posts: 147
Re: Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
Yes, Jabba's website about taking the step off the rebound adjusting rod.
At first I didn't understand what differance it would make, but, evidently there's two 'seats' one to meter flow, and a second seat the step bottoms out on before the metering seat is completly closed off. I didn't do the mod because my best rebound is still 'off the seat' about an 1/8 turn using Mobil 1 ATF.
[quote="Jabba";p="878"]Here is what I've done....
>>Getting the most from your suspension<<
Take it for what it is worth, but my VTR handles VERY well on the track, and on the normal roads I ride here in Japan.
At first I didn't understand what differance it would make, but, evidently there's two 'seats' one to meter flow, and a second seat the step bottoms out on before the metering seat is completly closed off. I didn't do the mod because my best rebound is still 'off the seat' about an 1/8 turn using Mobil 1 ATF.
[quote="Jabba";p="878"]Here is what I've done....
>>Getting the most from your suspension<<
Take it for what it is worth, but my VTR handles VERY well on the track, and on the normal roads I ride here in Japan.
#25
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Los Angeles, California, Canyons = SMM's, ACH,
Posts: 147
I spend most Sundays in the Santa Monica Mountains. I get there early and leave by 11am do we know each other Random?
Here's what I look like, maybe we've seen each other at the Rock Store
http://www.labiker.com/members/?JeffGronert
Here's what I look like, maybe we've seen each other at the Rock Store
http://www.labiker.com/members/?JeffGronert
~Jeffers
#26
Re: Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
Here's what I look like, maybe we've seen each other at the Rock Store
http://www.labiker.com/members/?JeffGronert
I bet you and your bike have become as one . Hats off to ya fella 8)
#27
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Location: Los Angeles, California, Canyons = SMM's, ACH,
Posts: 147
Re: Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
Rollingalong wrote:
Geeze Jeff ! Is that correct , 111k miles on your Super Hawk ?
I bet you and your bike have become as one . Hats off to ya fella
===================
Thanks Roll'in ,
I'm at 119.K now, and yes there's a lot to be said for staying with one bike and slowly modifying it to suit you opposed to thinking a new bike will solve all your problems. Of course you could error in the other direction and try to build your shawk into a RC-51 or 916 Ducati. The shawk is my first V-twin and suited me pretty well from the beginning. The bike it replaced was an 87'FZR1000 I had put 86.K miles on, and I had both for about a 6 month overlap. So it gave me plenty of time to decide if I'd miss the 'top-end' power the big in-line four had. Turns out the FZR's power was where I wasn't using it very much after I discovered the V-twin had the power right where I used it coming out of every turn, I love the V-twins long steady pull though the turns that begins earlier in the turn and doesn't try to 'highside me into the ditch like an evil bitch'
~Jeffers
Geeze Jeff ! Is that correct , 111k miles on your Super Hawk ?
I bet you and your bike have become as one . Hats off to ya fella
===================
Thanks Roll'in ,
I'm at 119.K now, and yes there's a lot to be said for staying with one bike and slowly modifying it to suit you opposed to thinking a new bike will solve all your problems. Of course you could error in the other direction and try to build your shawk into a RC-51 or 916 Ducati. The shawk is my first V-twin and suited me pretty well from the beginning. The bike it replaced was an 87'FZR1000 I had put 86.K miles on, and I had both for about a 6 month overlap. So it gave me plenty of time to decide if I'd miss the 'top-end' power the big in-line four had. Turns out the FZR's power was where I wasn't using it very much after I discovered the V-twin had the power right where I used it coming out of every turn, I love the V-twins long steady pull though the turns that begins earlier in the turn and doesn't try to 'highside me into the ditch like an evil bitch'
~Jeffers
#28
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Re: Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
Hey Yall,
I just finished a Race Tech upgrade and my hawk and on my sons cbr600 f3, wow, what a difference. Bumps that used to jar the bike are now soaked up nicely. Its is amazing how much difference it has made. I used the Race Tech website to calculate the springs and I used their gold valve kit for the compression valve only and their Ultra Slick 2 for oil. My son and I are planning to bundle up and head for the Dragon Sunday am for a good workout. During the summer we spent one day a week "dancing with the Dragon" and we are starting to have severe withdrawal symptoms. One thing that I did that the directions did not say to do was that I also restacked the rebound valve even though I did not use the rebound gold valve. The directions say to do this for my sons cbr so I called racetech and the guy said go ahead and do it for my hawk. I may late decide to mod the rebound control rod by removing the step but I want to thoroughly check out the suspension the way it is. I also may go aftermarket on the shock but not now. It is hard to imagine the suspension being any better but I guess its possible. I dropped the forks down 5 mm in the triple clamp If anyone is planning the gold valve thing, be aware that the video leaves out some important info specific to "our" forks. One is how to get the compression valve out of the cartridge. Also, figuring out the length of the spacer is tricky.
Later,
Rick Cooper
I just finished a Race Tech upgrade and my hawk and on my sons cbr600 f3, wow, what a difference. Bumps that used to jar the bike are now soaked up nicely. Its is amazing how much difference it has made. I used the Race Tech website to calculate the springs and I used their gold valve kit for the compression valve only and their Ultra Slick 2 for oil. My son and I are planning to bundle up and head for the Dragon Sunday am for a good workout. During the summer we spent one day a week "dancing with the Dragon" and we are starting to have severe withdrawal symptoms. One thing that I did that the directions did not say to do was that I also restacked the rebound valve even though I did not use the rebound gold valve. The directions say to do this for my sons cbr so I called racetech and the guy said go ahead and do it for my hawk. I may late decide to mod the rebound control rod by removing the step but I want to thoroughly check out the suspension the way it is. I also may go aftermarket on the shock but not now. It is hard to imagine the suspension being any better but I guess its possible. I dropped the forks down 5 mm in the triple clamp If anyone is planning the gold valve thing, be aware that the video leaves out some important info specific to "our" forks. One is how to get the compression valve out of the cartridge. Also, figuring out the length of the spacer is tricky.
Later,
Rick Cooper
#29
Re: Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
One thing that I did that the directions did not say to do was that I also restacked the rebound valve even though I did not use the rebound gold valve. The directions say to do this for my sons cbr so I called racetech and the guy said go ahead and do it for my hawk. I may late decide to mod the rebound control rod by removing the step but I want to thoroughly check out the suspension the way it is.
Rick,
Did you stack it the exact same as the compression side (for example a c34)? Did you have enough of the racetech washers from the compression valve kit to do this?
Thanks,
Doug
#30
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Re: Upgrading front fork springs: suggestions? values?
Rick,
Did you stack it the exact same as the compression side (for example a c34)? Did you have enough of the racetech washers from the compression valve kit to do this?
Thanks,
Doug
Hey Doug,
The stack for the rebound valve I used is 6 of the 0.15 x 17 and 1 of the 0.1 by 9. Also, I did get to the drogon today and the suspension worked really well.
Did you stack it the exact same as the compression side (for example a c34)? Did you have enough of the racetech washers from the compression valve kit to do this?
Thanks,
Doug
Hey Doug,
The stack for the rebound valve I used is 6 of the 0.15 x 17 and 1 of the 0.1 by 9. Also, I did get to the drogon today and the suspension worked really well.