My point is the stock cooling system was capable of handling a much larger quantity of horsepower. Has anyone had the cooling fan kick on and the temperature continued to rise uncontrolled? And what were the temperatures during this incident.

 

I know, I'm just joking around at this point... I totally agree with what you pointed out. Oil cooler jammed between the exhaust and front cylinder head and no problems with a build engine? No extra fan? Seems like pretty good assurance to me!

Now, what I want next is a window on my water pump cover so I can see the colored coolant flowing through... and probably some LED's inside so it glows. I'm doing it. Starting tomorrow.

 

The one thing that they had that most of us dont is they ran water with a surfactant, I would assume, as coolant is not allowed on track. If I lived in a hot environment, that is what I would do. It is good for many degrees of help, and there is NO reason to run coolant in AZ during the summer

 

Yeah 100mph of air is a little cooler than rush hour. I had a friend who race the superhawk & used the HRC RC51 kit. It included a huge front radiator.

7moore; why do you care about changing the fans for winter, they hardly are needed in cooler temps so why change it? Oh and green is a weird color to like.

 

Yeah it is the same oil cooler but it has been lowered due to the third radiator mounted in the middle like the HRC SP1\SP2....

 

Well, it's a little bit of a story, but:

With the undertail rad, I wanted the bike to survive as long as possible without overheating. So I changed the fan switch to kick in earlier so that it would at least lengthen my time on the road for a commute in the Tempe heat for the summer. I did this thinking that if it were going to overheat, at least it may survive the commute (b/c riding for sport just isn't really that enticing in the summer).

Well, in my paranoia, I slightly compromised the optimum motor temp and electrical system. It turns out, the fans regulate the temp well enough... I never saw it go above 230*F except a couple of isolated incidents (235), and they are now on too often. I would like them to switch off at stock temp rather than 185 so that my fans aren't running full bore all the time. It's more of a little test... either way it's really just fine tuning Kai ju's setup. Also, I haven't run this rad in cooler temps yet, so still it's still a little unknown how much cooling will be needed...

And Mike, I didn't realize there was a third cooler... is it just wedged between the two stock ones?

 

I am just seeing one big one up front for the RC51. Do you have pics for the vtr? I just never have seen it and it isnt visible in the pic I posted, but the hoses are routed different.

 

I don't have any pics of the third rad but if you look closely at the posted pic you can see the hose clamp behind the rad cap where it hooks into the system

 

Actually I did have a pic of the third rad......



It's not the best angle but you can see it in there....

 

anyone ever had experience with using an adapter like this?
http://d3d71ba2asa5oz.cloudfront.net...leradapter.jpg

and utilize it to mount a secondary oil cooler, keeping the original intact?

 

I had thought of those but have only seen them for cars..

 

If you are overheating, you need to flush and fix your stock system.

My bike running clean coolant (60% water 40% antifreeze +water wetter) and a stock cooling system never overheated even on 125+ degree AZ days in stop and go traffic. Sure the fan ran a lot, but it never caused any other issue. And with the stock system the R/R and stator will be fine keeping up with the electrical draw. (assuming your electrics are working right)

 

already flushed and have a Spal fan running engineice.

gauge never goes more than a hair above half on hot humid florida days

cooler is better and less fluctuation in temperature, as discussed above, is better.