What you have done with the cam sensor, is what I was going to do. If I can't get that to work then it will have to go in the proper factory spot in the cylinder head.

If your CBR crank rotor does not fit easily, then a Varadero (XL1000V) rotor should fit straight on. It has 12 teeth and the Varadero uses the same crank as the VTR.

 

Did you put some sort of rotor on the cam gear, or are you using the actual cam lobe to trigger the sensor. Given the size of the lobe will that be very accurate?

The Varadero has a cam rotor, similar to the crank pulse rotor, to trigger the sensor.

 

I'm going to go get my Varadero crank rotor today , last part missing !!
Being the cheap *** that I am, having a VR sensor in my garage, I bought two fine threads bolts M10 x 1,00 x 30, cut it off at the cam gear thickness + nut, grinded the nut to fit between the cam casting ant the cam gear lip (it holds it for me while I tighten it), welded the rest of the bolt stem on the bolt head. There is three 10mm holes each side of the two mounting bolts. I mounted another dummy bolt to balance the cam gear at speed (minus the leftover stem). I punched the stem on the nut side to lock the bolt in place.
But damn I forgot to take a picture of this.
So basically I want synch for the front cyl, but the front cover is a pita to get to and the rear cam gear align the rear intake cam center hole straight up at TDC, I figured that I could tweak the angle and switch holes to move the cam signal where I want it (30-50 deg ATDC), the reason for the angle of the sensor.
Using a lobe may work, but a VR sensor's output voltage is proportional to the rise of the magnetic field, using a lobe will make a low and wide voltage pulse, while a square piece of steel flying by at good speed (away from the center of rotation go faster) will generate a high voltage spike that the computer will catch even during cranking.

In my setup the cam signal accuracy is not that important, the crank angle position is given by the missing tooth 60 ATDC, the cam gear is telling the computer what stroke cyl#1 is at, so it can determine if (the next cycle) it will fire the coil and injector or not. (yes it enable sequential injection and non wasted spark config, one spark every 720 deg/cyl)

Now are both cams different ?? I'm using single table efi and it will be just a matter of switching to dual tables to map both cyl differently (fuel only), but that start to get complicated, I would need to move my O2 sensor around the pipe...
Maybe I can just make the rear slightly richer, but I'm not sure how I changed the breathing characteristics of the engine with a 2 liters plenum. I think that I will just read plugs and if the rear one complains (get white) I'll switch to dual map and enrich until it'zs happy.

Microsquirt can just do it all pretty well, but I need to prove it this afternoon.
Oh and they released an even more DIY version, 200 $, board only with screw terminals, you build your efi box yourself, relays, wiring, but you get the same ECU capability, take more time and reading, but the price can't be beat, may be even cheaper to EFI a lawnmower than to replace the carb lol.

 

Both the RC51 & Varadero cam sensor is on the rear cylinder, so what you are doing is the same as the factory. I think for the extra cost I will be buying the Varadero cam pulse rotor. Easier than making my own like you have.

Personally, I think you will have less need for a separte fuel map for the rear cylinder than what I will. Forced induction (from what I know) does tend to overcome some of the characteristics of a normally aspirated engine. The Vtwin engine means you will have unequal intake and exhaust lengths, as well as temperature. So I will need separet maps for sure.

But your turbo will negate the effects of the different intake and exhaust lenghts between cylinders, at least to some extent. So you may not have much need to adjust the rear cylinder too much, perhaps only for temperature variation.

I have not looked at the Microsquirt for some time, so perhaps it is time to look at it again. From memory it will not do what I want, but I will check. Once again, I think it is less important for you than it will be for an normally aspirated engine. In my case I want en ECU that can run separate fuel and ignition maps for each cylinder, and allow unlimited rpm points at any interval. I think the ECU is very very important for me, and without the best ECU I can get it is not worth the effort. So many new fuel injected bikes are critisized by testers for their fuel mapping, so getting it set at its optimum level is a priority for me.

 

I'm still stuck with a crank sensor problem that I'm not equipped to diagnose myself, I'm in need of an oscilloscope to find out what happens in the VR sensor circuit, the timing will retard as the RPM increase, while the ECU keep it constant, probably a noise issue, seeing the waveform would help, I will try to insulate the wires and maybe try a few resistors, the timing pulls back so mutch that it acts like a rev limiter to 4500 RPM.
I'll post what I find.

Microsquirt will not do dual ignition tables, maybe the sequencer will, but it's still in beta testing for now, it have 5 12x12 maps, 2 VE, 2 target AFR and one spark, can be used in Alpha-N, Speed density or a mix of both, it also support MAF sensors.

 

My roommate was able to pickup a used oscilloscope at a local swap meet for cheap years ago.. A new one is crazy expensive, but he got his for like $15 and it works great. (it's big and bulky, but nice to have)

If you need one, I recommend searching similar places, that or ebay.