Track Day suspension setup
#1
Track Day suspension setup
How about a thread on everybodys track day set up?
Im 220lbs Naked
Forks, RT G2 Gold valves with C34 shim build, All ***** seals, .95 Racetech springs, Fork brace. I did raise the oil level but cant find my notes on that. No mods to rebound and currently set all the way on. -3mm on the crowns.
Shock is Ohlins, 1000lb spring, 8 clicks out on rebound and 10 clicks comp. +4mm lift.
Pretty happy with it but do feel some mid turn wallow or movement. I got a tip from an expert rider on a Hawk at my last track day to get my body weight further over the front wheel. This helped stabilize the bike and for the first time my front tyre has started to look worked at a track day.
Im open to any tips to.
Whats your setup?
Im 220lbs Naked
Forks, RT G2 Gold valves with C34 shim build, All ***** seals, .95 Racetech springs, Fork brace. I did raise the oil level but cant find my notes on that. No mods to rebound and currently set all the way on. -3mm on the crowns.
Shock is Ohlins, 1000lb spring, 8 clicks out on rebound and 10 clicks comp. +4mm lift.
Pretty happy with it but do feel some mid turn wallow or movement. I got a tip from an expert rider on a Hawk at my last track day to get my body weight further over the front wheel. This helped stabilize the bike and for the first time my front tyre has started to look worked at a track day.
Im open to any tips to.
Whats your setup?
#2
You know you coulda said "with no gear". Geesh, I was just about to have lunch! Thanks a lot.
Make sure you are NOT on the seat. Its tiring but will totally change the midcorner stability. Climb forward so your face is way up where the mirror would be.
You can also add stiffer/ more foam to the seat to get you up over the front wheel. I went way faster after adding some still foam over the stock stuff under the cover.
Tank grips work wonders to prevent overworking your arms and overloading the bars midcorner to upset the chassis.
Adding rebound should help the wallowing as should a bit of preload.
Make sure you are NOT on the seat. Its tiring but will totally change the midcorner stability. Climb forward so your face is way up where the mirror would be.
You can also add stiffer/ more foam to the seat to get you up over the front wheel. I went way faster after adding some still foam over the stock stuff under the cover.
Tank grips work wonders to prevent overworking your arms and overloading the bars midcorner to upset the chassis.
Adding rebound should help the wallowing as should a bit of preload.
#3
You know you coulda said "with no gear". Geesh, I was just about to have lunch! Thanks a lot.
Make sure you are NOT on the seat. Its tiring but will totally change the midcorner stability. Climb forward so your face is way up where the mirror would be.
You can also add stiffer/ more foam to the seat to get you up over the front wheel. I went way faster after adding some still foam over the stock stuff under the cover.
Tank grips work wonders to prevent overworking your arms and overloading the bars midcorner to upset the chassis.
Adding rebound should help the wallowing as should a bit of preload.
Make sure you are NOT on the seat. Its tiring but will totally change the midcorner stability. Climb forward so your face is way up where the mirror would be.
You can also add stiffer/ more foam to the seat to get you up over the front wheel. I went way faster after adding some still foam over the stock stuff under the cover.
Tank grips work wonders to prevent overworking your arms and overloading the bars midcorner to upset the chassis.
Adding rebound should help the wallowing as should a bit of preload.
Guess what I was told was correct then. Im trying to do a deal on some rearsets which I think will help as well. I do have a taller touring seat which I had on the bike for the last day but it made me feel like I was on the bike not in it as it were.
#4
Oh yeah, as for the no gear thing. You should set static sag numbers with you and your gear. It makes a difference. You should start at 30mm each end between topped out and sag with you & gear (you need some guys to hold you & the bike up).
#6
Here is another strange thing that can help. Assuming you have stomp grips on the tank, armor all you seat & leathers. Be careful not to fall off, but doing this makes moving side to side off the bike way easier.
This seems like dumb stuff but proper body positioning is a huge part of active suspension on the bike.
You should also lower the front end by raising the forks to tune in quicker turn in and hold a line midcorner. (can sorta be done with rear ride height too to some extent)
This seems like dumb stuff but proper body positioning is a huge part of active suspension on the bike.
You should also lower the front end by raising the forks to tune in quicker turn in and hold a line midcorner. (can sorta be done with rear ride height too to some extent)
#7
Here is another strange thing that can help. Assuming you have stomp grips on the tank, armor all you seat & leathers. Be careful not to fall off, but doing this makes moving side to side off the bike way easier.
This seems like dumb stuff but proper body positioning is a huge part of active suspension on the bike.
You should also lower the front end by raising the forks to tune in quicker turn in and hold a line midcorner. (can sorta be done with rear ride height too to some extent)
This seems like dumb stuff but proper body positioning is a huge part of active suspension on the bike.
You should also lower the front end by raising the forks to tune in quicker turn in and hold a line midcorner. (can sorta be done with rear ride height too to some extent)
Jamie the suspension guy said on another thread not to lower the front. Which is something I had done so have lifted it up again. He gave me some specs for a mod to my rebound which I will give a go.
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Red_Liner740
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04-02-2009 09:52 AM