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Time for Stage I

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Old 07-13-2010 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by cliby
and is this still years off, or do you expect to ride it yet in 2010!!
sorry I couldn't refuse, its just the anticipation that is killing me here.
LOL! It's so hot in my garage right now you could cook an egg on my kegerator!

In the evenings I am getting a little done, so should be runnin by December 31st 2010

As far as break-in method, I haven't really considered it much. Was just plannin on setting the rings and changin oil before dyno tunning...
Old 07-13-2010 | 08:13 AM
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when I did mine I read everything I could and finally went with the 'fast method". Its a question we'll never know the answer to, but all I could read seemed to make sense that it works at least as well, is safe and allowed me to ride it harder, sooner.

forgot about the heat issue in the garages. Sure is easier to heat them in our winters than it is to cool them in your summers
Old 07-13-2010 | 08:21 AM
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I'm with cliby. Put the motor through some hard pulls, to get some gas pressure behind the rings, so they will exert some pressure on the cylinder walls. The rings are very thin and need some help from cylinder pressure to seat properly.

I would avoid sustained high RPMs though. Run it for a few miles like that. Change the oil and wring it's neck! Dyno oil is generally considered best for break-in.

Then you can't go wrong with Honda HP4 - You started it!!

Oh-and thanks for the reminder of why I live on the west coast...
Old 07-13-2010 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by RCVTR
I'm with cliby. Put the motor through some hard pulls, to get some gas pressure behind the rings, so they will exert some pressure on the cylinder walls. The rings are very thin and need some help from cylinder pressure to seat properly.

I would avoid sustained high RPMs though. Run it for a few miles like that. Change the oil and wring it's neck! Dyno oil is generally considered best for break-in.

Then you can't go wrong with Honda HP4 - You started it!!

Oh-and thanks for the reminder of why I live on the west coast...
Thanks, but you can have that Left Coast
Old 07-13-2010 | 08:43 AM
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Oh... And I have a package on the way to you, gonna drop it of on my way to work tomorrow... It might make the first start yet...

Sorry about the delay, one of the cells decided to go DOA, so I had to wait for the replacement... You get a toy as a freebie for waiting though, a charge indicator with the correct voltage levels for an A123 cell...
Old 07-13-2010 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Tweety
Oh... And I have a package on the way to you, gonna drop it of on my way to work tomorrow... It might make the first start yet...

Sorry about the delay, one of the cells decided to go DOA, so I had to wait for the replacement... You get a toy as a freebie for waiting though, a charge indicator with the correct voltage levels for an A123 cell...
Thanks Tweety, You da MAN!
Old 07-17-2010 | 03:18 PM
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Busted a hemroid putting the fresh motor on the floor from the workbench by myself, but the heart it in the monsta!

Attached Thumbnails Time for Stage I-heart-in1.jpg   Time for Stage I-heart-in2.jpg   Time for Stage I-heart-in3.jpg   Time for Stage I-heart-in4.jpg  
Old 07-19-2010 | 08:42 AM
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I think I'll set do my TPS and set up the T-fitting and second vac line for easy carb syncing before I put the cars back on. I hope to be able to ride it before I have to sync the carbs, but I've never had them off before so I figure they will be outta sync pretty bad once I get them back in there. What do you guys think?
Old 07-19-2010 | 08:45 AM
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I've had my carbs out 3 times and never synced them, my bike still runs great but I do get the "occasional" hickup (from what I've read, that's normal), no problems at WOT either.
Old 07-19-2010 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by nothing
I've had my carbs out 3 times and never synced them, my bike still runs great but I do get the "occasional" hickup (from what I've read, that's normal), no problems at WOT either.
That's great news! Thanks Nothing!
Old 07-19-2010 | 08:50 AM
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Haha no problem, I'm not saying don't sync them, because that is what really helps with your carbs not running correctly. I've simply had them out and not touched anything adjustment wise, don't see why they would be needed to, ya know?
Old 07-19-2010 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by nothing
Haha no problem, I'm not saying don't sync them, because that is what really helps with your carbs not running correctly. I've simply had them out and not touched anything adjustment wise, don't see why they would be needed to, ya know?
sound logical to me and I do plan to sync them just not before 1st ride...
Old 07-21-2010 | 10:08 AM
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How's 4 month old gas to run or should I replace it before I try to start this monsta?
Old 07-21-2010 | 10:13 AM
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dump it. Given the compression ratio you're running, you'll need lots of octane and the most volatile compoenents of gasoline, the very ones that raise the octane rating, are the first to evaporate when stored for long periods of time.....
Old 07-21-2010 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by mikstr
dump it. Given the compression ratio you're running, you'll need lots of octane and the most volatile compoenents of gasoline, the very ones that raise the octane rating, are the first to evaporate when stored for long periods of time.....
Thanks Mikstr, I knew you were gonna say that but had to ask cuz last time I siphoned gas it didn't taste very good
Old 07-21-2010 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by FL02SupaHawk996
Thanks Mikstr, I knew you were gonna say that but had to ask cuz last time I siphoned gas it didn't taste very good
If the tank is off, just use the petcock. turn it on, and provide a bit of vacuum temporarily to it and let it drain out.
Old 07-21-2010 | 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by lazn
If the tank is off, just use the petcock. turn it on, and provide a bit of vacuum temporarily to it and let it drain out.
Will do, but I fear it will taste the same outta the petcock too
Old 07-21-2010 | 11:36 AM
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Well... There really shouldn't be any gas at the vacuum line... If there is replace petcock ASAP...

But yeah, vacuum lines taste bleargh too...
Old 07-21-2010 | 11:37 AM
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I bought a cheap syphon hose from an auto parts store. No need to taste the stuff.....
Old 07-21-2010 | 12:16 PM
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It wont be long now fellas!

I hope to get the TPS done this weekend and rejet the carbs too, so I can finally fire it up and go out and bed those new bearings
Old 07-21-2010 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by FL02SupaHawk996
I think I'll set do my TPS and set up the T-fitting and second vac line for easy carb syncing before I put the cars back on. I hope to be able to ride it before I have to sync the carbs, but I've never had them off before so I figure they will be outta sync pretty bad once I get them back in there. What do you guys think?
Well I've had it go both ways when reinstalling carbs. Sometimes there is no change, other times they are way out just from taking them off and putting them back on.

With your situation of completely going through the motor and re-jetting the carbs I would sync them before I tried to ride it. While they might be close, it only takes a couple of minutes to get them set properly and it can make a major difference in how the bike runs.
Old 07-21-2010 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mikstr
dump it. Given the compression ratio you're running, you'll need lots of octane and the most volatile compoenents of gasoline, the very ones that raise the octane rating, are the first to evaporate when stored for long periods of time.....
The lighter components decrease the octane rating. Higher octane number means that the fuel is less volatile.



Drain the tank, dump in some new gas and run it already!! The TPS will work just fine where it is!!!

If you had a STOCK airbox, you wouldn't need to rejet either...
Old 07-21-2010 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by RCVTR
The lighter components decrease the octane rating. Higher octane number means that the fuel is less volatile.



Drain the tank, dump in some new gas and run it already!! The TPS will work just fine where it is!!!

If you had a STOCK airbox, you wouldn't need to rejet either...
I got a stock airbox but it needs rejetting anyways due to the funnels and K&N causin some leanness around 5k rpm

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Old 07-21-2010 | 04:48 PM
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Yeah, you don't want to run it lean. At 5k RPM, you might be able to fix it by raising the needles a bit. But the problem is, a K&N filter probably requires a different needle profile. I wonder why nobody has made one.

I am anxiously awaiting the ride report.

Last edited by RCVTR; 07-21-2010 at 04:50 PM.
Old 07-25-2010 | 04:33 AM
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TPS reading was 489, so leaving it alone!

Jetting the carbs now and hope to have fluids in the monsta soon
Old 07-25-2010 | 07:43 AM
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HELP! Carbs wont fit!

The carbs I took off the tame motor seem to be too long for the new STG 1 motor by about 1/2" causing the boots to missalign so much I can't get them on.

I tried everything I could think of and there doesn't seem to be any adjustment in the bracket that holds the carbs together, so short of making a new adjustable bracket is there anything I can do to make them fit
Old 07-25-2010 | 08:16 AM
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There really shouldn't be any difference... There is no difference through the years, so it doesn't make sense... (I have personally shifted stuff around 97-> 03)

Could it be that the boots needs to be rotated slightly to match up?
Old 07-25-2010 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Tweety
There really shouldn't be any difference... There is no difference through the years, so it doesn't make sense... (I have personally shifted stuff around 97-> 03)

Could it be that the boots needs to be rotated slightly to match up?
The only difference in the carbs from all years is the CA carbs have a couple of extra vacuum ports. Besides that they are all the same.
Old 07-25-2010 | 09:52 AM
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Maybe it's just me, but those suckers are not fitting!

Time to get out a 5lb hammer
Old 07-25-2010 | 06:41 PM
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once I got the boots oriented just right with wd-40 all over them on the heads I decided to check the TPS one more time before installing the carbs cuz I'd been fiddling with them and got 850 ohms

Drilled out the stupid bolts and set it at 506 and locked it down and slammed those carbs on there before anything else could go wrong


Now will I need to fill the bowls with before I try to start it?


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