Time for Stage I
#451
In the evenings I am getting a little done, so should be runnin by December 31st 2010
As far as break-in method, I haven't really considered it much. Was just plannin on setting the rings and changin oil before dyno tunning...
#452
when I did mine I read everything I could and finally went with the 'fast method". Its a question we'll never know the answer to, but all I could read seemed to make sense that it works at least as well, is safe and allowed me to ride it harder, sooner.
forgot about the heat issue in the garages. Sure is easier to heat them in our winters than it is to cool them in your summers
forgot about the heat issue in the garages. Sure is easier to heat them in our winters than it is to cool them in your summers
#453
I'm with cliby. Put the motor through some hard pulls, to get some gas pressure behind the rings, so they will exert some pressure on the cylinder walls. The rings are very thin and need some help from cylinder pressure to seat properly.
I would avoid sustained high RPMs though. Run it for a few miles like that. Change the oil and wring it's neck! Dyno oil is generally considered best for break-in.
Then you can't go wrong with Honda HP4 - You started it!!
Oh-and thanks for the reminder of why I live on the west coast...
I would avoid sustained high RPMs though. Run it for a few miles like that. Change the oil and wring it's neck! Dyno oil is generally considered best for break-in.
Then you can't go wrong with Honda HP4 - You started it!!
Oh-and thanks for the reminder of why I live on the west coast...
#454
I'm with cliby. Put the motor through some hard pulls, to get some gas pressure behind the rings, so they will exert some pressure on the cylinder walls. The rings are very thin and need some help from cylinder pressure to seat properly.
I would avoid sustained high RPMs though. Run it for a few miles like that. Change the oil and wring it's neck! Dyno oil is generally considered best for break-in.
Then you can't go wrong with Honda HP4 - You started it!!
Oh-and thanks for the reminder of why I live on the west coast...
I would avoid sustained high RPMs though. Run it for a few miles like that. Change the oil and wring it's neck! Dyno oil is generally considered best for break-in.
Then you can't go wrong with Honda HP4 - You started it!!
Oh-and thanks for the reminder of why I live on the west coast...
#455
Oh... And I have a package on the way to you, gonna drop it of on my way to work tomorrow... It might make the first start yet...
Sorry about the delay, one of the cells decided to go DOA, so I had to wait for the replacement... You get a toy as a freebie for waiting though, a charge indicator with the correct voltage levels for an A123 cell...
Sorry about the delay, one of the cells decided to go DOA, so I had to wait for the replacement... You get a toy as a freebie for waiting though, a charge indicator with the correct voltage levels for an A123 cell...
#456
Oh... And I have a package on the way to you, gonna drop it of on my way to work tomorrow... It might make the first start yet...
Sorry about the delay, one of the cells decided to go DOA, so I had to wait for the replacement... You get a toy as a freebie for waiting though, a charge indicator with the correct voltage levels for an A123 cell...
Sorry about the delay, one of the cells decided to go DOA, so I had to wait for the replacement... You get a toy as a freebie for waiting though, a charge indicator with the correct voltage levels for an A123 cell...
#458
I think I'll set do my TPS and set up the T-fitting and second vac line for easy carb syncing before I put the cars back on. I hope to be able to ride it before I have to sync the carbs, but I've never had them off before so I figure they will be outta sync pretty bad once I get them back in there. What do you guys think?
#460
#461
Haha no problem, I'm not saying don't sync them, because that is what really helps with your carbs not running correctly. I've simply had them out and not touched anything adjustment wise, don't see why they would be needed to, ya know?
#462
sound logical to me and I do plan to sync them just not before 1st ride...
#464
dump it. Given the compression ratio you're running, you'll need lots of octane and the most volatile compoenents of gasoline, the very ones that raise the octane rating, are the first to evaporate when stored for long periods of time.....
#465
Thanks Mikstr, I knew you were gonna say that but had to ask cuz last time I siphoned gas it didn't taste very good
#466
#467
#471
I think I'll set do my TPS and set up the T-fitting and second vac line for easy carb syncing before I put the cars back on. I hope to be able to ride it before I have to sync the carbs, but I've never had them off before so I figure they will be outta sync pretty bad once I get them back in there. What do you guys think?
With your situation of completely going through the motor and re-jetting the carbs I would sync them before I tried to ride it. While they might be close, it only takes a couple of minutes to get them set properly and it can make a major difference in how the bike runs.
#472
Drain the tank, dump in some new gas and run it already!! The TPS will work just fine where it is!!!
If you had a STOCK airbox, you wouldn't need to rejet either...
#473
The lighter components decrease the octane rating. Higher octane number means that the fuel is less volatile.
Drain the tank, dump in some new gas and run it already!! The TPS will work just fine where it is!!!
If you had a STOCK airbox, you wouldn't need to rejet either...
Drain the tank, dump in some new gas and run it already!! The TPS will work just fine where it is!!!
If you had a STOCK airbox, you wouldn't need to rejet either...
Last edited by FL02SupaHawk996; 07-21-2010 at 03:28 PM. Reason: Spell
#474
Yeah, you don't want to run it lean. At 5k RPM, you might be able to fix it by raising the needles a bit. But the problem is, a K&N filter probably requires a different needle profile. I wonder why nobody has made one.
I am anxiously awaiting the ride report.
I am anxiously awaiting the ride report.
Last edited by RCVTR; 07-21-2010 at 04:50 PM.
#476
HELP! Carbs wont fit!
The carbs I took off the tame motor seem to be too long for the new STG 1 motor by about 1/2" causing the boots to missalign so much I can't get them on.
I tried everything I could think of and there doesn't seem to be any adjustment in the bracket that holds the carbs together, so short of making a new adjustable bracket is there anything I can do to make them fit
I tried everything I could think of and there doesn't seem to be any adjustment in the bracket that holds the carbs together, so short of making a new adjustable bracket is there anything I can do to make them fit
#477
There really shouldn't be any difference... There is no difference through the years, so it doesn't make sense... (I have personally shifted stuff around 97-> 03)
Could it be that the boots needs to be rotated slightly to match up?
Could it be that the boots needs to be rotated slightly to match up?
#478
The only difference in the carbs from all years is the CA carbs have a couple of extra vacuum ports. Besides that they are all the same.
#480
once I got the boots oriented just right with wd-40 all over them on the heads I decided to check the TPS one more time before installing the carbs cuz I'd been fiddling with them and got 850 ohms
Drilled out the stupid bolts and set it at 506 and locked it down and slammed those carbs on there before anything else could go wrong
Now will I need to fill the bowls with before I try to start it?
Drilled out the stupid bolts and set it at 506 and locked it down and slammed those carbs on there before anything else could go wrong
Now will I need to fill the bowls with before I try to start it?