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Time for Stage I

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Old 05-17-2010 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by cliby
you can use the original sprockets as guides to get you started in right directions. Simply transfer marks over to new adjustable sprockets and use as reference starting points. I forget which stage 1 cams you are using but moriwaki are simply drop in items so you should be very close using stabndard marks, then timing to perfection.
Mine are Moriw and I initally started out that way but for some reason it didn't work, but I may go back and try transfering the sprocket lines over again.
Old 05-17-2010 | 04:03 PM
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I'm thinking that I'll bring in the timing on the other cylinder after 360 and see how it works
Old 05-17-2010 | 05:01 PM
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Hey Rick.
sorry to come late to the party.

the rear cylinder cycle is 270 degrees after the front cycle. It's probably easiest to work from the top-center position of each cylinder separately, by resetting the degree wheel. Just be sure that top-center on the compression stroke on the rear is 270 degrees after top-center-compression on the front. Get the front cams set, then do the rears.

You might be better off mounting your cams to the stock drive gears and checking timing. You will not need to adjust them, but you can go ahead and check, to go through the exercise.

I just got your PM about locknut tools. Still want to use them?
Old 05-18-2010 | 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by RCVTR
Hey Rick.
sorry to come late to the party.

the rear cylinder cycle is 270 degrees after the front cycle. It's probably easiest to work from the top-center position of each cylinder separately, by resetting the degree wheel. Just be sure that top-center on the compression stroke on the rear is 270 degrees after top-center-compression on the front. Get the front cams set, then do the rears.

You might be better off mounting your cams to the stock drive gears and checking timing. You will not need to adjust them, but you can go ahead and check, to go through the exercise.

I just got your PM about locknut tools. Still want to use them?
I made a set of frame nut tools so I wont need to borrow yours and thanks for the info I'll get the stock sprockets on there and have this sucker timed in no time!
Old 05-24-2010 | 07:15 AM
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Transplant surgery in progress!
Attached Thumbnails Time for Stage I-hanging-system.jpg   Time for Stage I-hanging-system2.jpg   Time for Stage I-carbs-out.jpg  
Old 05-25-2010 | 07:01 AM
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I pulled out the jets and here's what I found:

one of the mains was labeled "FACTORY" so I figured the PO have it rejetted with a Factory One kit for the Full Race Exhaust...

175F
182R
45slow

Question is should I get a new jet kit or just buy the new jets needed and drop them in?
Old 05-25-2010 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by FL02SupaHawk996
I pulled out the jets and here's what I found:

one of the mains was labeled "FACTORY" so I figured the PO have it rejetted with a Factory One kit for the Full Race Exhaust...

175F
182R
45slow

Question is should I get a new jet kit or just buy the new jets needed and drop them in?
Be nice to refresh our memory for what is new to the engine since the last times you used these carbs? if just the head, cams and HC pistons there might not be much change. If the full exhaust is a new addition it will require changing for sure. My biggest jetting change (required smaller jets) was the addition of the full exhaust. dramatic and surprising to me in that I thought it would need more fuel.
Old 05-25-2010 | 08:51 AM
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It'd probably be cheaper to just get the jets you need than to get a whole new kit.. But only if you buy the right size in a few tries.
Old 05-25-2010 | 09:04 AM
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Bill, the full exhaust was already jetted for at 175 & 182 and I'm adding these:
moriw stg1 cams
oversized high comp pistons
ported heads
oversized valves
long billet velocity stacks
lightened flywheel
topless airbox w/K&N

Since I cut the top off the airbox and plan on running it with a K&N the jet size changes will likely be big.

Lazn, I'm planning on buying the initial jets from my dyno tuner so if different ones are needed all I'll have to do is swap them out...so what if they smell like gas they are still new...right?

Last edited by FL02SupaHawk996; 05-25-2010 at 09:06 AM. Reason: forgot cams:) & spell
Old 05-25-2010 | 09:34 AM
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When it comes time to tune your bike, you might want to have a uncut airbox top just in case to compare against your topless one..

see: http://www.ablett.jp/bikes/vtr/air_box_lid.htm (page 3 specifically)

Now he did not do the cams or pistons, so you may be on the right track, but I'd have a stock top on hand to dyno test just to see how that works.
Old 05-25-2010 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by lazn
When it comes time to tune your bike, you might want to have a uncut airbox top just in case to compare against your topless one..

see: http://www.ablett.jp/bikes/vtr/air_box_lid.htm (page 3 specifically)

Now he did not do the cams or pistons, so you may be on the right track, but I'd have a stock top on hand to dyno test just to see how that works.
I have read that and figure that feller's problems were self inflicted cuz he never had enough STG1 parts to make it work. Taking the top to the tuner would just give him an easy out...
Old 05-25-2010 | 03:30 PM
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I was going to say the same thing as Lazn. actually I was going to say might want to tune it first with stock airbox, then go on to er, maybe stage II airbox.

I had a very hard time tuning mine including taking it to a near local tuner of national reputation for v-twins. could not get it right until mike here hooked me up with some HRC carb needles. I could not imagine having the airbox mods on top of that. Not being negative it just seems like one of those aspects of these bikes that have been tried over and over and a LOT of beating their heads against a wall trying. So you might want a little gratification of your great engine work first - enjoy it then tackle the second phase. but good luck in either case.
Old 05-26-2010 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by cliby
I was going to say the same thing as Lazn. actually I was going to say might want to tune it first with stock airbox, then go on to er, maybe stage II airbox.

I had a very hard time tuning mine including taking it to a near local tuner of national reputation for v-twins. could not get it right until mike here hooked me up with some HRC carb needles. I could not imagine having the airbox mods on top of that. Not being negative it just seems like one of those aspects of these bikes that have been tried over and over and a LOT of beating their heads against a wall trying. So you might want a little gratification of your great engine work first - enjoy it then tackle the second phase. but good luck in either case.
Bill, that's good advice that any intelligent individual would follow...then there's me...LOL! I gotta try the topless airbox 1st, so wish me luck!

Also, in case anybody wants to order actual Keihin jets individually you can go to jetsrus.com and get them:

slow jets are# N424-21
Mains are# N424-36
Old 06-01-2010 | 06:27 AM
  #434  
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Lots of progress this weekend! The top end is buttoned up and the stator cover is on. I need to order a new water pump washer and primary drive friction spring: http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/...7/Group/CLUTCH

Surprisingly, I didn't find a primary drive friction spring on either motor. Is this thing not needed or am I missing something here?
Old 06-06-2010 | 12:01 PM
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I have replaced the 5 friction spring bij springs of the 2004 CBR600rr. When i used the standerd springs the clutch slipped at full thotlle.
Nice work so far, i hope it will be ready soon!
Old 06-06-2010 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by FL02SupaHawk996
Lots of progress this weekend! The top end is buttoned up and the stator cover is on. I need to order a new water pump washer and primary drive friction spring: http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/...7/Group/CLUTCH

Surprisingly, I didn't find a primary drive friction spring on either motor. Is this thing not needed or am I missing something here?
I think they must have either added or deleted depending on year. the fiche is the same for all years but mine also, from stock did not have one, that was from both a 2000 and a 99 motor. I did not put one on and have no problems. But it was nervewracking the first time thinking I must have misplaced a part.
Old 06-06-2010 | 04:53 PM
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Thanks bill, I think I'll add
it since I ordered it prolly don't need
it...
Old 06-09-2010 | 12:38 PM
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Those springs are there to quiet the backlash noise of the primary gears.
Old 06-09-2010 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by RCVTR
Those springs are there to quiet the backlash noise of the primary gears.
Cool, I have one now and will put it on there even though I wouldn't be able to hear the primary gears over this beast anyways
Old 06-09-2010 | 02:34 PM
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Everyone is watching with anticipation.. this has been a drawn out process
Old 06-09-2010 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by lazn
Everyone is watching with anticipation.. this has been a drawn out process
Dude, it's been a long time comin and I won't even believe it when it's done!

All I'm waitin for now are my jets

Last edited by FL02SupaHawk996; 06-09-2010 at 04:13 PM. Reason: Spell
Old 06-21-2010 | 04:58 AM
  #442  
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I took the rear section off yesterday. Next I'll drop the stock motor out and put in the fresh STG1 motor. However, I'm still waiting on some parts to come in. This monster should be breathing fire soon!
Attached Thumbnails Time for Stage I-rear-section-off.jpg  
Old 06-21-2010 | 05:13 AM
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Lookin' good Rick
Old 07-09-2010 | 10:22 AM
  #444  
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more progress!

buttoned up the torque monster last night....finally!
Attached Thumbnails Time for Stage I-torque-monster-done.jpg  
Old 07-09-2010 | 12:25 PM
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OK so now the real question... how much ya sellin it for?
Old 07-09-2010 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by AdamK
OK so now the real question... how much ya sellin it for?
Well I guess most everthing does
have a price, but I'll need to break it in for ya first
Old 07-12-2010 | 07:01 AM
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Tame motor is out!

tame engine is out! anybody want a nice 100hp motor with 30K on it?
Attached Thumbnails Time for Stage I-tame-motor-out2.jpg   Time for Stage I-tame-motor-out.jpg  

Last edited by FL02SupaHawk996; 07-12-2010 at 07:02 AM. Reason: added pics
Old 07-13-2010 | 07:27 AM
  #448  
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Break-in Oil

I'm thinking about using Dyno oil for the 1st 300 miles then switch over to full synthetic before the dyno runs. Whattcha think?
Old 07-13-2010 | 07:58 AM
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which breakin method are you planning to use?
Old 07-13-2010 | 07:59 AM
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and is this still years off, or do you expect to ride it yet in 2010!!
sorry I couldn't refuse, its just the anticipation that is killing me here.


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