Throttle, Kill & Brake Bar Clamp Spacing
#1
Throttle, Kill & Brake Bar Clamp Spacing
It has been so long since I replaced the stock handlebars (clip-ons) on my 97 VTR (first with Helibars and then with Tommasellis'), I don't know the OEM spacing between the inboard edge of the throttle "pod" to the outboard edge of the kill switch pod, and then from the inboard edge of the kill switch pod to the outboard edge of the front brake master cylinder/lever assembly clamp.
I realized I had the brake lever too far inboard from the throttle grip because I was (for many years) having to use an inordinate amount of pressure (squeeze) on the lever to stop or slow down. It is a matter of insufficient leverage (not a pun) resulting from the point of applied force (I 2-finger brake) to the brake lever pivot. I've now moved the front brake master cylinder/lever assembly clamp inboard a bit over 1/4" from where it was (I did the same with the clutch lever clamp), and it looks right but I've not yet been on a test ride.
Can someone who has maintained the OEM spacing measure and post the distance between the inboard edge of the throttle "pod" to the outboard edge of the kill switch pod, and then from the inboard edge of the kill switch pod to the outboard edge of the front brake master cylinder/lever assembly clamp? Also, as double-check, verify the OEM overall measurement between the inboard edge of the throttle pod to the outboard edge of the front brake master cylinder/lever assembly clamp?
See attached pics.
Thx!
I realized I had the brake lever too far inboard from the throttle grip because I was (for many years) having to use an inordinate amount of pressure (squeeze) on the lever to stop or slow down. It is a matter of insufficient leverage (not a pun) resulting from the point of applied force (I 2-finger brake) to the brake lever pivot. I've now moved the front brake master cylinder/lever assembly clamp inboard a bit over 1/4" from where it was (I did the same with the clutch lever clamp), and it looks right but I've not yet been on a test ride.
Can someone who has maintained the OEM spacing measure and post the distance between the inboard edge of the throttle "pod" to the outboard edge of the kill switch pod, and then from the inboard edge of the kill switch pod to the outboard edge of the front brake master cylinder/lever assembly clamp? Also, as double-check, verify the OEM overall measurement between the inboard edge of the throttle pod to the outboard edge of the front brake master cylinder/lever assembly clamp?
See attached pics.
Thx!
#2
Outboard edge of brake perch to inboard edge of throttle assembly is 1 7/16". Stock. I moved the kill switch by cutting the pin. I was unhappy with the way the wires smoothed the perch. I was afraid of premature wear. To the best of my recollection there was fairly even spacing of the kill switch between brake and throttle. Hope this helps.
#3
Outboard edge of brake perch to inboard edge of throttle assembly is 1 7/16". Stock. I moved the kill switch by cutting the pin. I was unhappy with the way the wires smoothed the perch. I was afraid of premature wear. To the best of my recollection there was fairly even spacing of the kill switch between brake and throttle. Hope this helps.
I had the brake perch very close to that at 1-1/2" but my index & middle fingers were too close to the lever pivot which resulted in poor leverage. I've moved the MC perch inboard to 1-25/32" and it seems my fingers now pull with more torque now; i.e., longer moment arm provides greater effect (though cannot road test til the weekend).
See attached pic...where the gap between the black taoe and brake perch is the amount I moved the perch inboard (+.25")
You may want to try moving the brake perch inboard close to where I now have it and see what you think.
#4
Being I have long fingers I have mine set to where, from your photo, right past where the rubber starts on the lever. Right where the bend is. And my lever is adjusted pretty far out for most but it's a perfect fit for my hand. I can still get the tip of my finger curled around the lever. I feel I have a pretty good setup on brake components. Coupled with the grabbing the lever so far in means, to me, more bite in less through ( throw?) idk, in less movement...
#5
I have "size 11" (glove) hands that are also very "meaty". Preference is just that but physics says the longer the fulcrum the greater the leverage along with more travel (throw) that allows more incremental feel. Short travel results in greater effort required with less sensitivity and thus reduced braking control.
As long as the lever is not too far to properly reach and does not come too close to the grip, the lever farther inboard in relation to the throttle tube/grip provides a wider range of travel that permits more accurate modulation with less effort.
I have a RC51 (RVT) SP2 MC and CBR600F4i calipers, EBC SM HH+ pads and Russell SS lines. I vacuum flush brakes & clutch annually with Valvoline synthetic Dot3/4 fluid.
As long as the lever is not too far to properly reach and does not come too close to the grip, the lever farther inboard in relation to the throttle tube/grip provides a wider range of travel that permits more accurate modulation with less effort.
I have a RC51 (RVT) SP2 MC and CBR600F4i calipers, EBC SM HH+ pads and Russell SS lines. I vacuum flush brakes & clutch annually with Valvoline synthetic Dot3/4 fluid.
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