View Poll Results: Stainless Clutch Line?
Yes, performance benefit
11
30.56%
No, don't bother and save the cash
25
69.44%
Voters: 36. You may not vote on this poll
Stainless Clutch Line?
#6
The only factor is bling factor...
To clarify ( since you said you don't know) The reason behind the stainless lines is that they they are more solid and don't expand when applying pressure... This becomes more of a problem when the fluid and line heats up... The pressure on the clutch is less than on the brakes at full brake, and since you are not running around slipping the clutch all the time, which is basicly what you are doing when braking a little, the heat buildup is minimal...
Oh BTW, I have also chosen to make my life easier... A speedbleader is worth the money... (especially if you are still tearing it apart to install matching bling lines...)
To clarify ( since you said you don't know) The reason behind the stainless lines is that they they are more solid and don't expand when applying pressure... This becomes more of a problem when the fluid and line heats up... The pressure on the clutch is less than on the brakes at full brake, and since you are not running around slipping the clutch all the time, which is basicly what you are doing when braking a little, the heat buildup is minimal...
Oh BTW, I have also chosen to make my life easier... A speedbleader is worth the money... (especially if you are still tearing it apart to install matching bling lines...)
#7
OK Thanks!!! Stainless clutch lines are for bling alone. I will most likely get all the line stainless to match. As for the speedbleeders, where can I pick those up? Thanks for all the help guys!!!
#8
EDIT: imo using a minivac is a quicker and better way to bleed brakes.
tim
to answer the question... it just looks good having matching brake & clutch lines.
tim
to answer the question... it just looks good having matching brake & clutch lines.
Last edited by trinc; 07-25-2008 at 12:32 PM.
#9
I have been bleeding brakes for a long time and I have two Mityvacs. I initially thought the same thing about Speedbleeders until I bought them and used them. (They're very cheap, so even if you don't like 'em you're not out much cash.) Much faster and easier to bleed the brakes and clutch. MUCH easier. I wish I had bought them sooner. I did use the Mityvac to create pressure in the lines for the initial bleed, but once it was done the Speedbleeders made getting a good bleed easier and faster.
Last edited by killer5280; 07-25-2008 at 05:02 PM.
#10
You're very opinionated, which is your prerogative, but you act like your opinion is the final word, which is annoying.
I have been bleeding brakes for a long time and I have two Mityvacs. I initially thought the same thing about Speedbleeders until I bought them and used them. (They're very cheap, so even if you don't like 'em you're not out much cash.) Much faster and easier to bleed the brakes and clutch. MUCH easier. I wish I had bought them sooner. I did use the Mityvac to create pressure in the lines for the initial bleed (gee, you're not the only guy who knows how to prime brake lines), but once it was done the Speedbleeders made getting a good bleed easier and faster.
I have been bleeding brakes for a long time and I have two Mityvacs. I initially thought the same thing about Speedbleeders until I bought them and used them. (They're very cheap, so even if you don't like 'em you're not out much cash.) Much faster and easier to bleed the brakes and clutch. MUCH easier. I wish I had bought them sooner. I did use the Mityvac to create pressure in the lines for the initial bleed (gee, you're not the only guy who knows how to prime brake lines), but once it was done the Speedbleeders made getting a good bleed easier and faster.
i'm not sure if everybody knows how they work & if they understand that they need to prime the lines before installing the bleeder.
if they don't they'll be pumping the lever forever. there are a few ways to get fluid in the lines if you have some time but if you prime them with the minivac i don't understand why you'd then put a speedbleeder in ?
i just think the mini is a better tool & yes at 45 i've bleed a few brakes.
i'll go edit my post & pay more attention to 'tone'
tim
#12
I've found that wrapping the standard nipple threads with teflon (others use grease) and using a mityvac is the quickest method for a full bleed and/or total fluid replacement. Speedbleeders are really nice for those interim quick bleeds to firm up the lever.
#13
I did not change the clutch line for bling
but because the OE clutch line always turned the fluid black from day 1 and after 8 years (its now 11), the OE rubber line was old.
I put Russell brake lines almost immediately, and put a Galfer rear line on maybe 5 years ago. BTW, I like the SBS low-friction rear pads and EBC fronts (both on the OE front calipers and now the F41 calis w/RC51 MC), though Vesrah and others make good HH pads.
I tried the Speedbleeders but even flushing at least once a year they non-stainless steel Speedbleeders corroded internally and became useless (they did offer SS items). One reason to use a Mityvac (though Greg may differ) is you don't pump the MC piston into the red zone when bleeding where crud can tear the O-rings.
I put Russell brake lines almost immediately, and put a Galfer rear line on maybe 5 years ago. BTW, I like the SBS low-friction rear pads and EBC fronts (both on the OE front calipers and now the F41 calis w/RC51 MC), though Vesrah and others make good HH pads.
I tried the Speedbleeders but even flushing at least once a year they non-stainless steel Speedbleeders corroded internally and became useless (they did offer SS items). One reason to use a Mityvac (though Greg may differ) is you don't pump the MC piston into the red zone when bleeding where crud can tear the O-rings.
#14
If you are doing a front end conversion or doing a set of Superbike bars the stainless line should be easier to manipulate than the rubber one since it is tacked to the side of the frame.
Dennis
Dennis
#15
yes to the stainless line and don't stop at the clutch. SS brake lines were a great upgrade. Secong favorite upgrade next to the pair valve removal. KN filter and dyno jet kit helped out too. Yanked Ca emission maze to. Breath in......
#16
The only factor is bling factor...
To clarify ( since you said you don't know) The reason behind the stainless lines is that they they are more solid and don't expand when applying pressure... This becomes more of a problem when the fluid and line heats up... The pressure on the clutch is less than on the brakes at full brake, and since you are not running around slipping the clutch all the time, which is basicly what you are doing when braking a little, the heat buildup is minimal...
Oh BTW, I have also chosen to make my life easier... A speedbleader is worth the money... (especially if you are still tearing it apart to install matching bling lines...)
To clarify ( since you said you don't know) The reason behind the stainless lines is that they they are more solid and don't expand when applying pressure... This becomes more of a problem when the fluid and line heats up... The pressure on the clutch is less than on the brakes at full brake, and since you are not running around slipping the clutch all the time, which is basicly what you are doing when braking a little, the heat buildup is minimal...
Oh BTW, I have also chosen to make my life easier... A speedbleader is worth the money... (especially if you are still tearing it apart to install matching bling lines...)
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