Guys, turn around time is the time it takes me to get springs from my source in WA + 1 day. It's usually that way most of the time. I've only had two sets of forks setting in the dining room once (the wife loves me ).

Oil locks, or bottoming cones as they're sometimes called, prevent the forks from hard bottoming during extremely hard braking, usually accompanied by bumps. The cone goes into a cylinder of sorts and dramatically increases the compression damping for about 3/4". The oil lock modification gives you back that 3/4" or so of travel at the bottom of the fork stroke. This is only recommended for racing and track days, as you MUST have the forks properly set up for the track and rider as to not hard-bottom the forks. For street rides, I generally set up the low speed compression a little softer for comfort. This allows the forks to dive a hair more, thus I recommend keeping the oil locks.

With regards to fork tube polishing, even new forks have some level of roughness that can be felt and seen in a side by side comparison with a polished fork tube. After complete disassembly I polish the forks by hand using a polish and a cloth. This is tough work and I always break a decent sweat when I do this, hence the reason I charge for it. If there was an easy way to do it I'd do it for free but there's not. Combined with a good quality seal grease, polishing the forks usually cuts stiction by about 30-40%. This results in better fork action and more compliant ride while still allowing a tuned amount (read more) of low speed compression damping.

Hope this answers your questions. I'm willing to talk suspension all day but I'm not giving away any secrets though.