The only reason im having one made to start with is, that i dont want to start getting bits machined to send off to you lot who want one, and then find out that its flawed in one way that could end up bad

Thers realy only one pic left then that the whole peice done, nothing else to see lmao.....

 

Just got me doubting myself, i better go check tomorrow if it is adjustable

 

It was an option on purchase, but almost all are adjustable... Kind of odd to not have it... Not many choose that...

 

Well i was wrong....doh, the little black plastic **** at the bottom of the shock adjusts the damping....

Back to square one, now gotta figure out how to make it ride height adjustable

 

Shame, I thought it wasn't...

Good call on the linkage.. let us know how it all works out.

 

I'll save you a lot of trouble... Don't change the link you have made... Adjusting that geometry doesn't get you what you want... It only changes the leverage the shock has ie it changes essentially how hard a spring you want... Get a height adjustable shock or make an adjuster for the one you got instead...

 

Yeah they stopped offering the ride height adjustability a while ago. I haven't found an answer yet if you can get it changed. I will be at Dan Kyles shop in the next week or so and will ask then if the adjuster can be retro fitted to the shock.

 

I was thinking about chainging the clevis mount at the top of the shock, i doubt you can make it any shorter, but at least a new one you can make longer to suit?

What was youre solution to this tweety? jsut having a read through the posts it seems as though you didnt opt for an adjustable shock?

 

That sounds good, post up when you know that would be awsome.

 

IIRC his solution was a large bolt through the frame that the clevis mounts to that he can adjust along the length of the bolt.

I could be wrong though and the adjustment is on the other side.. Either way it was a large bolt.

 

You sir are quite correct...

I have CBR F4i shock that Jamie Daugherty worked over for me... But instead of having him lengthen it to suit a stock VTR I left it stock lenght and made my own adjustable top clevis... Since it's shorter than the stock fork I can adjust it some +- 15 mm or so... More + if I swap to a longer bolt...

And yes, essentially it's a beefier bolt through the frame with a double nyloc-nut on either side, loosen the nuts and move up or down along the lt and then tighten it down... Simple and effective...

http://iloapp.tweety.se/gallery/images?Album&album=53

 

Thats exactly the way i was thinking about on the way back from the gym

The Storm uses a 10mm for the bolt peice, and the SP2 uses a 16mm for the same

Lets see what i can knock up at work out of stainless

On your's tweety, did you thread it so that the bolt head was inside the "u" peice? and then liky you said thread the threaded part through the frame and bouble nuts either side?

 

Should be gettign the linkage in 5 weeks

 

Actually I made a "U" with a double bottom, stuck a nut in there and welded it, not drilling the inner bottom and use a lock pin to hold a threaded rod... It's just application of forces... I didn't want to rely on anything to weak, and I thought it would be usefull to be able to swap the threaded part for longer shorter until I had nailed down a lenght that suited the setup... I'm actually leaning towards raising it a bit more right now... Cant decide though...