OCMD: the next round - ZX-10R forks
#1
OCMD: the next round - ZX-10R forks
First of all happy New Year to everyone.
Well, with the bike in storage for winter, my mind OCMD mind inevitably starts to wander. Aided by the recent ZX-10R fork swap thread (https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...nd-swap-28568/), I have decided to give it a go. Granted,my current set-up (96 900RR forks, with 0.90 Ohlins springs, Gold Valve kit, Ontario Moto Tech triples, F4i calipers) works very, very well. However, I must confess that I have always longed for a set of USD forks but held off as I didn't want to give up my PVM magnesium front wheel (not to mention the Braketech rotors and now titanium axle). Fortunately, the set-up I am working on with allow me to keep those while still getting my USD fork fix (no to mention the ZX-10R forks I will be using have DLC-coated tubes, something I was also wanting. Also, SKF offer their new low-friction seals for these as well, somthing they currently don't offer for the 900RR units).
So, I will be basing my project on the above listed thread but have worked out a few changes which I think will improve it and make it easier to put together. Rather than repeat the discussion in its entirety, I will highlight the changes I am looking at making to the set-up used by FLETCH:
- triple clamps: 2007+ CBR600RR: i) have same c-to-c as VTR (204mm), ii) the stem is aluminum (lighter) iii) uses same stem bearings as VTR (no custom stuff needed) iv) has a gullwing top clamp so I recoved some of the length lost from the shorter forks
The only downside is that I will need to get the upper clamp bored out 2mm
- calipers: I picked up a set of Nissin monoblock radial calipes from a 2009 Daytona 675. Nissin are generally regarded for making superior calipers (compared to Tokico anyhow). These will be light (monoblock) and have 32/32mm piston combo (very close to the 34/32 F4i units I am currently using). I expect I may have to get them machined slightly as they have cast spacers on them so these will liklely have to be machined down to mate them up with the rotors. Also, by usign these, I can keep the Ti caliper pins and banjo bolts I already have, as well as speed-bleeders.
Not sure what the timeline will be on this as I have started to buy parts and will stockpile them until I am ready to go. In the interim, I have a great sset-up anyhow.
cheers
Well, with the bike in storage for winter, my mind OCMD mind inevitably starts to wander. Aided by the recent ZX-10R fork swap thread (https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...nd-swap-28568/), I have decided to give it a go. Granted,my current set-up (96 900RR forks, with 0.90 Ohlins springs, Gold Valve kit, Ontario Moto Tech triples, F4i calipers) works very, very well. However, I must confess that I have always longed for a set of USD forks but held off as I didn't want to give up my PVM magnesium front wheel (not to mention the Braketech rotors and now titanium axle). Fortunately, the set-up I am working on with allow me to keep those while still getting my USD fork fix (no to mention the ZX-10R forks I will be using have DLC-coated tubes, something I was also wanting. Also, SKF offer their new low-friction seals for these as well, somthing they currently don't offer for the 900RR units).
So, I will be basing my project on the above listed thread but have worked out a few changes which I think will improve it and make it easier to put together. Rather than repeat the discussion in its entirety, I will highlight the changes I am looking at making to the set-up used by FLETCH:
- triple clamps: 2007+ CBR600RR: i) have same c-to-c as VTR (204mm), ii) the stem is aluminum (lighter) iii) uses same stem bearings as VTR (no custom stuff needed) iv) has a gullwing top clamp so I recoved some of the length lost from the shorter forks
The only downside is that I will need to get the upper clamp bored out 2mm
- calipers: I picked up a set of Nissin monoblock radial calipes from a 2009 Daytona 675. Nissin are generally regarded for making superior calipers (compared to Tokico anyhow). These will be light (monoblock) and have 32/32mm piston combo (very close to the 34/32 F4i units I am currently using). I expect I may have to get them machined slightly as they have cast spacers on them so these will liklely have to be machined down to mate them up with the rotors. Also, by usign these, I can keep the Ti caliper pins and banjo bolts I already have, as well as speed-bleeders.
Not sure what the timeline will be on this as I have started to buy parts and will stockpile them until I am ready to go. In the interim, I have a great sset-up anyhow.
cheers
Last edited by mikstr; 01-08-2013 at 07:24 PM.
#2
More info:
I will be swapping the springs (0.85kg/mm) to match my (and the bike's) weight. I will also be giving the forks the full Race Tech treatment to optimize the valving (hoping to work with Jamie Daugherty on this one).
In terms of brake pads, Vesrah do not offer SRJL s (what I currently running in the F4i units) so I will likely give Carbone Lorraine C59s a try (they comes highly recommended). Another brand I was hoping to try is Zcoo (supposed to be awesome) but they don't offer pads for these calipers either.
Last point: I read that the ZX-10R's KYB forks are (or were at the time anyhow) the lightest OEM forks (in 43mm sizing anyhow; they were said to be even lighter than Ohlins RTs). Together with the light triple trees (aluminum stem), (monoblock) calipers, ...., it should help me drop the ol' girl's weight yet again.......
Here's to hoping it all comes together smoothly.......
I will be swapping the springs (0.85kg/mm) to match my (and the bike's) weight. I will also be giving the forks the full Race Tech treatment to optimize the valving (hoping to work with Jamie Daugherty on this one).
In terms of brake pads, Vesrah do not offer SRJL s (what I currently running in the F4i units) so I will likely give Carbone Lorraine C59s a try (they comes highly recommended). Another brand I was hoping to try is Zcoo (supposed to be awesome) but they don't offer pads for these calipers either.
Last point: I read that the ZX-10R's KYB forks are (or were at the time anyhow) the lightest OEM forks (in 43mm sizing anyhow; they were said to be even lighter than Ohlins RTs). Together with the light triple trees (aluminum stem), (monoblock) calipers, ...., it should help me drop the ol' girl's weight yet again.......
Here's to hoping it all comes together smoothly.......
#5
Well, you won't be getting that from me! I try not to sell my competitor's products when I have my own valving pieces! I've been making and installing my own valving pistons and other parts for years now -FYI!
#6
Just wanted to take this opportunity to say kudos to Jamie. I received a bunch of parts today and everything was top-notch. Great service and advice, highly recommend this gentleman
Parts will start to come together soon and I'll post pics when it's done.
cheers
Parts will start to come together soon and I'll post pics when it's done.
cheers
#7
More info:
In terms of brake pads, Vesrah do not offer SRJL s (what I currently running in the F4i units) so I will likely give Carbone Lorraine C59s a try (they comes highly recommended). Another brand I was hoping to try is Zcoo (supposed to be awesome) but they don't offer pads for these calipers either.
In terms of brake pads, Vesrah do not offer SRJL s (what I currently running in the F4i units) so I will likely give Carbone Lorraine C59s a try (they comes highly recommended). Another brand I was hoping to try is Zcoo (supposed to be awesome) but they don't offer pads for these calipers either.
Such as?
#8
I finally got all my parts and, with the help of a set of loaner rotors from Jack Flash (mated to my (spare) OEM front wheel), was able to ascertain the following technical bits:
- calipers needed to have 10mm removed from the "shoulders"
- due to above, one would need to use 65mm caliper bolts
- spacers needed to make everything fit were 19.5mm and 25.5mm; with these in place, everything lined up nicely
- stock axle can be re-used
With everything fit together, I also did a test fit of carbon Bestem front fender (for 2004-05 ZX-10R) and it fit too.
I currently have the forks off getting rebuilt with the parts (new seals, springs, reb and comp. pistons). Hopefully, once the weather warms up, I can get the bike to the shop for the install.... Looking forward to having it all together....
I will do a more "technical" write-up in the Fork Swap thread once it's all done.
- calipers needed to have 10mm removed from the "shoulders"
- due to above, one would need to use 65mm caliper bolts
- spacers needed to make everything fit were 19.5mm and 25.5mm; with these in place, everything lined up nicely
- stock axle can be re-used
With everything fit together, I also did a test fit of carbon Bestem front fender (for 2004-05 ZX-10R) and it fit too.
I currently have the forks off getting rebuilt with the parts (new seals, springs, reb and comp. pistons). Hopefully, once the weather warms up, I can get the bike to the shop for the install.... Looking forward to having it all together....
I will do a more "technical" write-up in the Fork Swap thread once it's all done.
#10
ya darn tootin', matey (thanks again bud!!!!!!!!!)
The only remaining question now is precisely which spacer set-up will be necessary with my PVM wheel. I mention this as when I had the ceramic bearings installed last year, the tech mentioned they were slightly wider than the previous units, so he had to adjust a spacer a bit. However (as you know Jocelyn), I have a collection of slightly narrower spacers to choose from so hopefully it will all fit together with minimal hassle (and $$$; alas, the pleasures of not having the right tools to do the job....).
The only remaining question now is precisely which spacer set-up will be necessary with my PVM wheel. I mention this as when I had the ceramic bearings installed last year, the tech mentioned they were slightly wider than the previous units, so he had to adjust a spacer a bit. However (as you know Jocelyn), I have a collection of slightly narrower spacers to choose from so hopefully it will all fit together with minimal hassle (and $$$; alas, the pleasures of not having the right tools to do the job....).
#13
I just dropped off the old girl at the dealership to have the forks installed (they already redid the forks; ran awesome, tehc did a nice job with the jetting last time around). They will also be replacing the rear tire (Pilot Road 2) and putting on teh powerdecoated chain adjusters while they're in there. Finally, they swap over the reer brake MC for the RMZ250 unit I picked up on eBay (already drilled hole in footrest for it as it uses a different c-to-c distance for the mounting bolts than the stock piece). I got a pressure-sensitive banjo switch (to activate the brake light, thereby allowing to dispense with the actual switch) and am hoping to really clean up that area once it's all done.
will post pics once I pick it up.......
will post pics once I pick it up.......
#14
Whats the idea behind the rmz250 rear MC? Is it just to get a smaller MC in there so it looks cleaner?
Otherwise definitely want to see lots of pics when you are finally done, sounds like its coming together for you and will be an awesome setup
Otherwise definitely want to see lots of pics when you are finally done, sounds like its coming together for you and will be an awesome setup
#15
Had to look up what that even was... how much pressure does it take to activate? I'm accustomed to using my mechanical one to flash a couple of times before I actually use the brakes (when the situation allows).
Cleaning that up would look nice, though... and in my situation getting a brake flasher is probably better.
Edit: oh, wait, that would be really nice for a rear brake . I was thinking front brake with the whole new forks thing...
Cleaning that up would look nice, though... and in my situation getting a brake flasher is probably better.
Edit: oh, wait, that would be really nice for a rear brake . I was thinking front brake with the whole new forks thing...
#16
no, the dirt bike MC has an integrated reservoir, so there's no hose leading off to an external reservoir (though I removed that a while back adn was running a clear plastic tube to act as reservoir, à la HRC). The piston is slightly smaller (12.7mm dia vs 14mm stock), whoch will mean about 15% (forget the exact number but it's close to that) more lever travel (I so seldom use it anyhow).
Last edited by mikstr; 04-01-2013 at 04:56 PM. Reason: correted OEM MC dia. error
#18
I can't claim to be the brain behind it, I stumbled across a thread (on Speedzilla IIRC) in which someone had done it (beleive I posted the link here a while back) and decided to give it a go......
#21
ah, but I'm getting a lift (from the roommate) While I would love to get a ride in, my main goal is just to get it home so I can get out whenever the weather does turn (which it will eventually..... if the weather is crap, I will likely try to get my speedo (RC51 unit) working (took a day off btw, so will have the day to play around, maybe even clean it, lol). If I don't get it working, it's coming off and back on goes the OEM piece.....I want to get the HRC ignition back in and won't risk it without a tach (cost me too damn much money last time it overrevved.....) Of course, I may just "hug it, and squeeze it, and call it George", lol
Last edited by mikstr; 04-04-2013 at 08:22 PM.
#22
Just got in from a quick ride (was snow on the ground this morning.....). Forks work very nicely, smooth operation, very fuild action. The brakes, as one would imagine with new pads, weren't too stellar at first, but after some bedding in are working extremely well. Lever actions seems slightly firmer but the power is there and control seems top notch. I didn't really stomp on it as it's cold out, but am quite confident the new set-up will be very good. The steering damper clamp I had was the wrong size so the damper is not hooked up at the moment. I think I will ride it like that for a while and see if one is really needed.
I have to say, the total package works incredibly well at the moment; looking forward to some warmer weather so I go for a real ride.
Will clean the bike later and post pics.
I have to say, the total package works incredibly well at the moment; looking forward to some warmer weather so I go for a real ride.
Will clean the bike later and post pics.
#27
I replaced the speedo console on the bike today. Had been running an RC51 unit for the past two years but never had a working tach. Now that I have the OEM speedo and the RC unit both hooked up with hookups for the wiring harness, i'ts a fairly simple procedure to swap them. I will (eventually) check the wiring connections on teh RC unit to see where the problem is. Of course, as my bike is a 99 (with the analog temp gauge), I also had to replace the temperature sending unit (bought an aftermatket one on eBay). Now that I have a working tach, I decided to re-install the HRC ignition box too. So, everything is coming together nicely for summer. AS for my stock speedo, I installed a Skur carbon fibre cover on it, and replaced the small screws holding the face plate on with aluminum units. I also removed that big Allen head screw in the front (serves no purpose from what I can see) with a black button head aluminum screw (looks nicer, and is lighter too). A gram here, a gram there.... it all adds up.....
My next project will be to set-up the spare set of carbs I have with the HRC jet kit and then see which set-up I want to run it with (open airbox, the box I modded last year, or the stock box I am now running). Decisions, decisions,..... such is the life of an OCMD sufferer........
My next project will be to set-up the spare set of carbs I have with the HRC jet kit and then see which set-up I want to run it with (open airbox, the box I modded last year, or the stock box I am now running). Decisions, decisions,..... such is the life of an OCMD sufferer........
Last edited by mikstr; 04-07-2013 at 01:40 PM.
#29
Open airox is the set-up Roger recommends to foks running modded engines. TOu essentially cut the airbox lid to reatian only a ring (no more than 10mm high) to keep the filter in place. This is aid to greatly enhance breathing and net significant gains in power. The trick, however, is to get it set up to run properly (jetting-wise). I tried it once before and my dyno guy was unable to get it to run properly. I hope that perhaps the HRC jet kit may enable me to clear that hurdle next time.....