I think I've written it out before but here you go:

1) remove fuel tank

2) remove airbox lid & air filter (you need to keep these two pieces together when you take them off & reinstall them

3) remove the velocity stacks ( on reinstall remember short front, long rear and there is a triangle embossed on one of the petals that matches up with a triangle embossed on the airbox floor to make sure you have them correctly positioned) and the screws holding the airbox to the carbs. Lift up on the airbox and remove the hoses from the bottom. The number of hoses will vary depending if the pair system and\or ca emissions is installed or not.

4) loosen the upper screws on the carb isolators and rock the carbs from side to side to loosen and remove them.

5) starting from the rear carb, remove the enrichment cable (10mm open wrench but be careful as it is a plastic fitting), remove the TPS connector, remove the rear coolant line, remove the two (2ea) screws holding the throttle cable stay to the carb body and remove the throttle cables, remove the front coolant line and then the front enrichment cable.

The carbs are now free and can be removed for whatever service needed.

To reinstall the carbs just reverse the procedure.

The only tricky part is getting the enrichment cable fittings started. It can be a bitch until you get the "feel" for getting them started straight. Also never tighten them down, just snug them or you will break the plastic housing.

Also there is no need to drain the coolant as stated in the service manual.

 

I am no wiz but I feel like I save time by NOT removing the chokes at the carbs but just popping out the **** from the frame. Then it comes with them and pops back in.

But in no way is it 45 min for me. Maybe if I dont count dis and re assembly......

 

took me an hr and 15 or so. I wasnt really rushing, but i did cheat and use a drill w/ a socket adapter for every screw or bolt i could get w/ it
The front choke was a beeotch took me 10min to get the 'feel' for it lol.
This included taking the mains out, but i left the braces on.
1st time i took it off took about 3hrs lol. I got the brace on only to realize the radiator heaterplug goes under the brace... i did this a few times and then made sure every damn piece was under before i reassembled the brace for the 5th time lol.
Man it was another beeotch to wind the spring back on for the throttle plates on the rear carb. After several fails i used a little peice of wire about 10" long. I hooked the end of the spring and wound it up re assembled everything only to realize id wound it 1 turn too tight... Doh! You can say i learned how not to take my carbs apart the 1st time.

 

One way to get the choke housings to screw in easier is to take the rubber cover off of it. This will allow it to spin more easily and make it easier to screw in with your fingers. Also if you don't feel that you need to take them completely off and take them to your work bench I've found that just pulling the front choke housing out gave me enough room to get the slides out etc. I didn't try to roll them over and do the jets in the bowl but I'd imagine you should be able to get to them as well.

 

Ok so I finally got my FW lightened. Do i have to drain the oil to do the FW swap? ill find out tomorrow. I had it shaved down to where you can just bearly see the remains of the balance hole.

heres a few pics before and after

http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/...erhawk/fw2.jpg

 

Wow, I am interested to know how it feels after that. What is the downside, the bike is really jerky right with no flywheel inertia?

 

I've been running one for years and haven't found a real down side... well except I had to swap out my RC45 throttle tube because it because a little touchy with the quicker reving engine.

So no you don't need to drain the oil. Remember the cover is a bit of a bitch to remove because of the magnets and keep your fingers clear when you put the cover back on...

Did you remove the sprag clutch when you had it machined? If not pull it (the allen head bolts on the opposite side of your pics) and clean it real well or swap it for the one that is in the bike.

It's a pretty easy and quick job if you have the correct puller (I want to say 22X1.5mm but I would have to go find mine to be positive) and an impact gun. When you are done the bike will rev so much better.

 

8541 driveability didnt suffer? What about abrupt engine braking?

 

No issues with driveability that I can tell and while I do believe I am rather smooth with the throttle I have no issues with the engine braking, yeah its a little more but nothing to worry about and I've let a couple people ride it without telling them the flywheel has been done and none of them ever said anything about it so, its pretty much a non issue and I would highly recommend the mod.

The best way I can describe it is the engine rev's more like a RC51 with this mod. As the RC's flywheel looks much like a modified VTR unit.

 

Ok good to know, and yes i pulled the sprag and all possible components before the work was done. Its still needs a good clean though b4 i put it in. I dont think i have that type of puller, but ill figure it out once i get there.
As far as why i did this. I guess im just a mod nut. But it is nice to have the throttle response of a Fuel injected(FI) engine. I hear theres more engine braking, but like hawk said not really a concern.
Ive got an oportunity to test drive a stock SV1000s this weekend thats FI'ed. Before i do some suspension work i want to make sure this isnt something im going to be trading off anytime soon for a bike that has better stock suspension and performance. 2003 sv1000 lots of extras under 2K miles ... aparently TL heads are a direct bolt on to the SV block? Not really an issue to research right now, just want to see if the stock SV is any better than my semi modded SH.

 

Dude, you were not kidding about that being a bear to get off. Seeing that i dont havea 22x1.5mm bolt lying around. My 1st attempt was a slide hammer with a bearing puller attached to the end.FAIL
2nd attempt i took out 2 of the allen bolts out of the starter clutch outer and ran a slotted bar in between them with extend bolts going down through the slots into the holes. I then was able to put a 1/4 14mm socket in the hole and screw down and add shims, but that ended up failing as well. I bent the slotted plate that was 1/2 thick!
3rd try thought id take out all the allens and run my 22x1.5tap in and try pushing it out with that. I wedged a piece of rebar in the rear spocket holes, not on the teeth, but it bent that, then i tried a 1/2" 12" extension and it bent that too!
4th attempt awaiting my 22x1.5mm 80mm long bolt. I tried to order 1 online @ fastenal and i cant get it shipped Dahhhh!
Ive got my impact,and also have a 3/4" breaker bar w/ a 8ft extension incase my 1200ft/lb of tq gun cant handle it. As of right now ive got my doubts.

btw is my cam timming effd now since i took out the allens on the starter clutch outer? Im pretty sure its still good, but had enough doubts to ask.
Where did you get a 22x1.5mm bolt?

 

Motion Pro - Flywheel Puller, M22X1.5 R.H. External Thread

It's on a taper.... and before you ask, the trick to putting it back on is to install it and then tighten it down as much as you can.

Then put the bike in gear and place a 2X4 between the spokes of the rear wheel, resting on the swingarm to hold everything still while you torque it down.

 

thanks bud just ordered it, might have it next week hopefully... to be continued.

 

Generally the trick to getting them off is getting your puller on there and getting it good and tight then smack the end of the puller good with a hammer. An impact gun works well too being it gives it a similar shocking force. It also works well for getting them back on tight without having to block up the rear wheel. If you do need to use the rear wheel to lock up the engine if you have someone to help you you can also just have them step on the rear brake pedal.

 

Wow what a great idea! the rear brake pedal, wish i woulda thought of that... i ended up just putting it all back together and put on on the super brace. I have to say the front end feels 10x more solid. No more front end wobbles on high speed turns.

I test drove the SV1000S today. Im glad to say ill be sticking with my SH. I thought the handling sucked. The steering stabilizer really affected my ability to feel confident on it. I had to be slightly leaned into a turn to counter steer effectively. If i wasnt leaned in on a moderate turn the bike would 1st stand straightup, then dip once the stabilizer was overcome. On the SH i can stay neutral. I push left and i dip left hard. I like that.
THe suspension wasnt that much better than the SH. THe motor had the simular problem of lugging and clanking below 3.5k (prolly needed a tps adj.) I would say the mid range roll on was impressive, but thats about it. My SH would woop the tail out of a stock SV. Itll be even better with the lightened FW.
I was suprised how low the miles were. Only 1,800 on the clock. I liked how the bars felt. Suprisingly you didnt feel like you were riding a race bike. The owner was telling me how he's going to remove that POS stabilizer, but most likely that will be the last time i test ride an SV reguardless.

 

Pulling the flywheel of will need no use of the brake as the impact gun will just pop it off with a real puller. Putting it back on, the rear break will never hold with the amount of torque needed on the bolt.... use the method I described for the quickest easiest way to hold everything still.

Yes the fork brace does really help with the stock forks, like I told you. I found the braking was also improved when I had mine. Next should be a better set of front calipers.

As for the SV, they work OK but I personally don't like the engine. I found they are pretty flat until you hit 4K as apposed to 3K on the SH (Not that I spend a lot of time down there....lol)

I think there is a write up on here somewhere with my impressions between the 2. Though I did stay with the SH if that tells you anything.

As mine is set up now there is no real comparison in my book though.

 

Ok ive got a lot to type here. 1st ill respond as to why i was looking at an SV.
PB SV1000s review
1 of the reviews ^this article here lables the VTR as a super yawn. Thought the SV would be so much better, man was I wrong. They musta rode a SH without your carb mods

Also here was a an idea that has worked on a car crank pulley, but has failed on the VTR. In the middle i use a 1/4 14mm socket to slide in the whole. It bent the plate and the bolts didnt have enough travel to pull it off.


Ok so memorial day i had off and decided to go to the Diamond Backs near Marion, NC. I bolted it all back up and hauled it there. Call me a wuss if you wish, but I cant ride for 7hrs on a SH. My right hand goes numb after 45min of riding.
So i finally get there and the 3rd turn is a nice deep bank, mind you im riding @ 80%, but apparently 80% was enough to test the stock suspension to its limits and then some... I had a front tire wash out. Lucky for me there was a harley rider and his wife that stopped and to help get my bike outa the ditch beside the mountain. Man that was embarrassing bc i had just passed them 5min ago. But @ least i wasnt seriously hurt and best yet the bike was still rideable. It all could have been much worse.





^ this is where the bank leveled out and they had a recent UNEVEN cross section put in. After i hit the cross section, thats when the tire washed out. It probably didnt help that it was no longer banked road or the fact that I didnt lower my tires before riding the mountains DOUGH! Usually for commuting ill ride stock settings, but for more aggressive riding i lower the front to 27 and the rear to 35psi.

^ heres some scrape marks of the bike sliding into the ditch.





I didnt even realize i had a rasberry, till i parked to take a few shots. The more i thought about it the luckier i felt about the sittuation. It could have been way worse. Lucky for me i didnt wash out the other way off a cliff, or under under a truck or into another rider ect. And the raspberry didnt hurt till i got home and had a mtg with hydrogen peroxide.

Im sorry if the pics of the bike offend anyone, they bother me as well, but on the bright side i wont have to worry about my SH getting stolen now

 

I wasnt about to go home after a 2.5hr drive. After i let some air out of my tires I rode for 3hrs, did 3laps of the diamondback loop 226/226a, rode the blueridge, went down 80. That was by far the most curvy road ive ever been on in my life! it made the diamond back look like a green slope.
Heres a few pics of the awesome scenery.










Btw got the lghtened FW on with the bolt puller! I was about to take it for a test run but my right grip had slid down. As wrenched it around to slide it up i busted my throttle tube DOUGH! looks like ill have to wait another week to ride.
Since then ive ordered a set of Racetech fork springs w/ the HFR valves a new daughtrey shift lever, F4i mid grade shock, mirrors and 1" mirror spacers, new t rexes, grips and the throttle tube.

 

Well finally i got 'er back with the new fork springs and seals installed. Man its 10x better! My sag before was somewhere around 50mm now its around 25mm. Im suprised what a huge differance 1" drop made in my wrists. My right hand doesnt go numb anymore, it wheelies eaiser and even makes my bike feel faster... well technically it is w/ the lightened flywheel.

Ive also added some new mirrors and mirror spacers, went back to a 16T front sprocket get better mpgs, now i cruise @ 4.4k instead of 5k. Still Hauls ***! Also added the signal dynamics relay to the rear tail light so im less likely to get rearended at a stop. ill post a vid soon.