First post on this forum, hi to everybody
I'm starting a new project on my loved Superhawk, it's getting it's carb removed and will recive a gt22 free float turbo (with a modified wastegate to keep it loud on demand), a magasquirt fuel amnagement, custom everything (from me) aluminum plenum with velocity stacks, 60mm throttle body with TPS, fuel pump 4 x 440 cc/min injectors, stainless steel exhaust. No compression reduction for now (I'll see how far I can get w/o it). No need to say I need to control every aspects of fuel, air, spark, detonation, lubrication, etc
I need infos on the ignition system, I need to know if i can get a consistent signal from the crank trigger (no mechanical advance) what type of sensor and what every components do exactly. I may use the original coil packs and use the ecu to retard the stock timimg tables under boost.
I'm attempting something that haven't been done before, at least as far as I know.

 

Since I have answers flowing I figured that tearing the damn thing apart was the best way to know what's in there. So I digged a 4x4 hole with a grinder on the side cover...wrong side !! And the grinder blade was worn so I took a hammer, chisel and prybar to do the other side. I had to remove countless junk to uncover a 12-3 toothed wheel !! So proud of my discovery I went back to my computer and found out that yes the soon to be released Microsquirt will drive the 0/270 deg. ignition in wasted spark mode of the VTR for only 400 $. The first teeth trigger coil no 1, first missing teeth trigger coil no 2 giving me total control over my ignition on a 12x12 map.
And that applies to all of you that want to convert to EFI since the VTR is a odd fire engine (does not fire every 360 deg, fire 270/450 deg.)
As soon as I can get my hand on the microsquirt I'll be avalable for infos.
Now I'm going back to duct tape my engine since it's leaking oil in the living room.

No VTR were hurt during the making of this thread, do not attempt to check engine internals this way because dust can fall in your eye. The correct procedure to check engine internals is to aim for a sidewalk at a speed of 50 MPH or above, apply both brake until wheels locks and lay the bike on the desired side. To remove crank/piston assembly use a speed in exces of 100 MPH.

 

Ya know there's bolts that hold those covers on, right. Hey, good luck on your efforts. Keep it going and please make regular updates here.

 

Hey you are the guy who made the literbike page !! Good work, very usefull page since infos are hard to find. I think I read the whole thing. Don't worry I'll post pics as soon as the parts arrive it will probably be after christmas for the turbo.