So I decided to move forward to doing the front end swap. Going to go with the RC 51 forks/wheel and 929 tripples. Planning on RC 51 swingarm swap later so wheels will match. I picked up a set of 929 forks with the tripples, so I'll go through them, install new seals and oil and sell them to recoup the costs. I got a good deal on the set so I'm hoping to get enough out of selling the forks separately to cover the cost of the set.

I also just picked up the RC51 forks with just the lower tripple and front axle bolt. I'll just sell the lower tripple again to recoup some costs.

Doing some searching it looks like the 954 bracke calipers and MC are essentially the same. I just hope the bolt spacing is correct as I got both calipers and the MC with lines for $135. Have a set of RC51 rotors coming along as well. Now just need to find a wheel. I found a cheap one on ebay but it's got a bent bead. Looking into how much it's going to cost to get it fixed and I may go that route. Anyone have success fixing a bent wheel have any pointers in doing so?

For bars I think I'm going to get a set of these Apex mounts for their adjustable bars. Then just weld together the upright and bar to mount into them. This way I can make the rise how ever I high I want.

Also I'm hoping that with the longer RC51 forks and the 929 upper tripple that dips down that I'll have enough fork above the tripple to put the clip on's on top of the tripple instead of under. Not sure if that'll work yet but we'll see.

The last thing I think I'll need is the steel braded brake lines. Just not sure how long I'll need them. Might just try to get +3" to be on the safe side to have enough extra for the extra rise on the bars I'll have. Anyone with bar risers have any problems with the clutch hose being to short? How far can you go and not have to extend the clutch line?

Also any recomendations on what stifness of springs I should run in the forks?

 

Are you going with sp1 or sp2 front wheel? The sp2 wheel is lighter but the plus of the sp1 wheel is you can use the 900rr rear as a match until you swap the swingarm.

 

Any particular reason for the SP wheels? If it's looks, fair enough... If it's anything else, I cannot understand why, the CBR wheels are lighter, and with the right bearings, match right up...

 

For me it was one of the only mods I did purely for looks, just always liked them more.

 

SP2 wheels. Tweety now you've got me thinking again. Maybe the CBR wheels would be better. Didn't realize they were lighter. I remember you saying the SP2 wheel is ligher than SP1 which is why I wanted to go that way. How much lighter are the CBR vs. SP2?

 

Um, from memory about a Kg for each wheel, a bit more for the rear perhaps, with a lighter cushdrive... Not much, but if it's not purely for looks, then the difference in price is ridiculous... CBR wheels are a dime a dozen in good order, and SP wheels are worth their weight in gold...

 

There are several SP2 wheels on ebay. Some with some miner rim dings for at or just over $100. Some nicer ones in the mid $200 range. Some perfect ones in the mid $300 range. Doesn't seem to be that big of a difference in prices for the CBR wheels from what I'm seeing. Which ones are the best? 900, 929, 954, or 1000RR?

 

I just bought a CBR1000RR front end complete except for the front wheel. I need to know what wheels will work (other than an 05 CBR1000rr which I can't find reasonably priced)

Can I use a CBR600rr front wheel and just swap bearings? If so what years. I thought I saw a chart for this but I'll be damn if I can find it when I need it.

 

I think with a bearing swap any of the CBR1000RR wheels will work as well as the RC51 wheels and probably several others. Last I checked there were a few wheels on ebay but a straight one is going to run you $250+. Several bent ones will run you under $100 but then you'll have to pay someone to straighten it if you can't do it yourself. I just picked up a straight one with a tire on it for $250+shipping. It just showed up today. So I'm going to swap my bearings, go get some new seals for the new dimensions that I need and the only thing after that I need for my swap is some pipe to make the bars to go with my universal clipons that I got from Apex. Hopefully have it done in a couple weeks if I get off my butt and get going on it.

 

You can go for sure at list up to 2011 wheels, not sure about 2012 wheels. If the front end you got is earlier then 2006, the calipers are positioned differently.
In 2006 the rotors grew up a bit But you can overcome that as well with additional spacers.
If you do go with the later model CBR1000RR from 2008 and up, the rear wheel is almost exact 5 pounds lighter then the VTR wheel, but also keep in mind that the spacing is a bit different, so you need to play with the rear caliper bracket and flipping the rotor.

 

CBR 1000RR 04-07 is identical... 08-11 work but look different... 2012 does NOT work at all...

CBR 600RR from various years work fine, some would need new bearings, some would just work straight up...

CBR 929/954 wheels works, same bearings, but the looks are different...

SP1/SP2 wheels works, but needs new bearings...

Edit; Obviously I'm talking about front wheels here, not rear...

 

The spacers on the calipers up front have nothing to do with the wheels or rotor placement per see, only the size of the rotors, and 06-07 bikes have the exact same parts except for the larger rotors and then spacers and longer mounting bolts...

 

Thanks GTS,NHSH and of course you Tweety, I knew you would know!

 

It depends on your weight

Here are my recommended spring rates:

150-180lb = 0.85kg/mm
180-215lb = 0.90kg/mm
215-250lb = 0.95kg/mm
250-280lb = 1.00kg/mm

Stock RC51 springs are 0.96kg/mm or 1.0kg/mm depending on the year. Don't forget a revalve - the valving in the RC51 forks is pretty much the same thing as in your stock VTR forks. Needless to say that is lacking in performance. RC51 forks by themselves won't perform as well as stock VTR forks that have been revalved, so a proper valving setup should be part of the equation for sure.