What it sounds like to me is the bike is now sitting closer to where it is supposed to be as compared you original set up.

Changing springs won't change the ride height. Not having the proper sag will.

Have you set the sag on the front end? Do you know how to set it?

The first step would be to set the sag. After that is done, then you can fine tune the suspension from there.

Making geometry changes at this time will just cause you more headaches.....

 

im glad this discussion is going on,i havnt put my forks together yet,only because i needed to order new ones.
so if you put the forks in the factory position,all you have to do is set sag.
when you put the cap back on the forks.what settings should the rebound and compressions be set at.

 

With the stock forks there is no compression adjustment.

So after you set the sag, what I do is first turn the rebound adjusters all the way out and "bounce" the front end. This is actually harder than it sounds as you want to push down on the same angle as the forks, not straight down.

Then you want to let the forks rebound but only hold on enough not to drop the bike. You don't want to "control" the bounce on rebound with your hands.

After you get it down and can see the front end bounce at the end of its travel, then turn the adjusters all the way in and try it again. The front end should "hang" at bit and then slowly come up fully.

Now you know everything is working.

At that point you want to back the adjusters out so the forks just come to the top of their travel and stop. If they hang a little, then try 1\2 turn less damping. If the front end bounces, then add 1\2 a turn of damping.

Around 1 1\2 turns out from fully seated is when most stock front ends I've set up seem to like.

Once you get the forks to just come up and stop, then you need to ride the bike and fine tune from there as riding and braking styles will have an effect on the final settings.

 

I followed this for the front end,

Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieDaugherty
I'd suggest 0.90kg/mm springs for your weight. On the street you can't brake hard enough to make a difference, so don't adjust the rate for that.

As for fluid, the SS stuff is what comes in the forks from the factory and is known to be partly to mostly crappy. You should run Honda Pro Oils 5wt - that's the best stuff. As already suggested, revalving the forks is the really the best thing. Don't try to run higher weight to adjust for the stock valving as that just makes things worse and takes you in the opposite direction you want to go. Run the HP 5w and correct springs until you have the scratch to get your valving setup correctly.

I always set VTR forks with a fluid height of 120mm, in case that helps. Good luck!

I'd suggest 0.90kg/mm springs for your weight. On the street you can't brake hard enough to make a difference, so don't adjust the rate for that.

As for fluid, the SS stuff is what comes in the forks from the factory and is known to be partly to mostly crappy. You should run Honda Pro Oils 5wt - that's the best stuff. As already suggested, revalving the forks is the really the best thing. Don't try to run higher weight to adjust for the stock valving as that just makes things worse and takes you in the opposite direction you want to go. Run the HP 5w and correct springs until you have the scratch to get your valving setup correctly.

I always set VTR forks with a fluid height of 120mm, in case that helps. Good luck!

Then I had my suspension set up at a track day by one of the sponsor (the bike worked great), but I was wondering if lowering the forks 5 or 10mm would gain any performance (better cornering).

On the other hand let me tell you, the SHawk is a beast compared to the one it replaced (2005 cbr600rr)

Thanks for all your help and sorry for all the confusion.

Tony

 

You can pull up the forks but also beware that the first thing to touch down on a SH is the header in right hand turns under hard cornering.

I would suggest raising the rear first, myself.

 

thanks very much for all the info.

 

Thank you for your help, one more ??, how many mm should I raised the rear?

Tony

 

and im guessing putting in 120mm of fork fluid is the most you should put in with this setup,or does it depend on?
sorry to keep bugging you guys.

 

I would start with 5-6mm (or up to 1\4"). Some like more and some less but it is a good starting point.

 

The air gap is mostly noticed at the bottom of the fork travel.
If you bottom out the forks, raise the level until it stops.
If the forks don't use their full travel, then lower the level.

So there is no set answer, just another starting point which you then fine tune to fit your riding style.

 

I believe you can raise it about 5mm at the rear shock if I remember correctly, that will gain you approximately half inch at the rear wheel.

Also, you can drop several millimeters at the forks assuming you have the forks already adjusted to your weight, as it seems you did
Both these adjustments will improve your cornering, but as 8541Hawk had mentioned, you have to be careful not to drop it too much due to the front header.

 

Good info here.......subscribed

 

Great info,

Thanks.


Tony

 

It really depends on how the rest of your suspension is set up.
With stock forks (with a fork brace) I ran 1\4" or 6.35mm with no issues.
With the suspension I have now, Ohlins rear & SP2 forks w\Ohlins valves, I run 10mm at the rear.

So don't be afraid to experiment, just do it in small steps until you find what works for you and your riding style.