Hello,

I just had a pair of black aluminum high mount jardine RT-1 round canisters put on my '98. It seems to pop very loudly only on decel and my shop told me that it is probably an air leak. The shop just put in a Factory jet kit and tuned it up, but the popping is really bothering me. I used some RTV to try to make a seal at the point where the headers meet the midpipe. They look wonderful and sound great under throttle and at idle, but the popping is really bothering me. Does this sound like an air leak? If it is, how can I tell where it is and how can I fix it?

Thanks,
-nick

 

I am guessing you could use some searching. Try PAIR.

 

RTV? I imagine that didn't work out so well for you. There is supposed to be a gasket there. If you had a leak at that point it would be a constant thing, if not more so on acceleration than anything else. Your problem is almost certianly not there.

But as stated above, search for PAIR, that's probably what the issue is.

 

I'm rejetted with a Factory kit and slips as well as a few other things, and even with PAIR disabled, I still get some fierce pops on decel. I'm just learning to ignore it, long as she runs good. IMO your problem is PAIR, and beyond that it might be a lean pop...

 

Sorry about that, I never even knew about the PAIR mod. Taking your advice, I looked at the FAQ page and the instructions seem pretty straightforward. I am not extremely mechanically inclined, but it looks do-able. Are there any steps I need to be extra careful with? Have any tips for success?

Thanks again,
-nick

 

If you're flipping the reeds, it is pretty straight-forward, just be careful with them as they're delicate, and keep them in-line. Also make sure you put the valves back in properly, although I believe they arent reversable, unless maybe you put the forward valve in the rear head or something. There's also a thin rubber gasket around both reed blocks, make sure to keep that intact and that it goes in straight...if you try to push it in one side first, the gasket will sometimes slide off of the block and go sideways, creating a leak.

 

dont mix up the lines that go to the tank

 

If you're just accessing the valves, there's really no need to remove the tank. Just remove the seat, remove the two front tank bolts and pivot it up, either supporting or hanging it. I take a bungee cord and hang it from the garage door opener overhead. With a 1/4" ratchet and socket, you can slip your arm over the top of the airbox, to access the rear PAIR valve, and use your hand through the side of the frame to guide your ratchet. It's quite easy actually.

 

Thanks for the tips. I think I will try to keep the tank on to prevent any mix-ups. This may be a stupid question, and it may just make sense when I dive into it, but am I flipping the stopper only, or both the reed and the stopper? Also, should I use blue locktite on the cover bolts?

Thanks again,
-nick

 

Just flip the stopper. It's a curved piece of metal bolted to the actual reed....well pull it off and flip it so that instead of limiting the reed's ability to open too far, it will push down on the reed and hold it closed. As far as Loctite, you could use it but I've never found it necessary.

 

Thanks a lot everyone. I finished the pair mod this afternoon and she sounds great. There is a great burble on decel now that I love! And it doesn't sound like the 4th of July when I come to a stop.

Thanks again!
-nick

 

Hey guys,

I have a question, and perhaps a related problem. When switching the PAIR reed stopper, should I have blocked off the hoses? I assumed that the reed valve was blocked off, so I just reconnected them. I haven't noticed any issues except for the fact that every once in a while when I slow down to stop and the engine drops to idle it will die. Can these be related?

Thanks again
-dummy

 

It's a good idea to block it off, just to keep stuff out and if the valve leaks by a little. Are you pulling the clutch in over 30mph and coasting to a stop? Is that when it dies?

 

Honestly, I'm not sure. I was riding on side streets so I may have been going over 30, but not by much . . . would that make a difference? I usually downshift, but when it happened the first time, I did try to coast to a stop to listen closer when it died.

Also, if I do block off the valves, what do you do with the hoses? (Put a cap on the valve and a cap on the hose?)

Thanks again

 

Yeah, you can cap them, put a marble or large ball bearing in the hose, or tear out all the PAIR stuff altogether. You have to plug all the other hose tees and airbox nipples and such that are left open.

As for the stalling, this is just a characteristic of the VTR. If you coast to a stop with the clutch pulled in it will die (or come close). There is no fix. It's ECU related.

 

Thanks again for the help, you guys are great!