First performance upgrade for a Stock Hawk?
#1
First performance upgrade for a Stock Hawk?
I have a completely stock 2001, what is a good beginner upgrade I can do with my bike? I also wanted to know if anyone knew where to get a service manual for a superchicken, I want to service my bike myself and I know I am competent enough if I have instructions as I am a Electronic Tech in the CG.
#3
http://www.superhawk996.net/Honda_VT...ice_Manual.pdf
There's your manual...download it, burn it to disk, and then print off the parts you need as you do the work. First mod I would suggest is "imparing" the bike (very easy to do), i.e., remove the PAIR system. Many others to follow, TPS adjustment, etc. Utilize the KB articles...very helpful. I'm sure you will receive many suggestions on what to do. I also have an 01 and spent every evening this week doing things, to include removing the CA emissions. Gonna ride when I get off work. Good luck with yours, tyronne
There's your manual...download it, burn it to disk, and then print off the parts you need as you do the work. First mod I would suggest is "imparing" the bike (very easy to do), i.e., remove the PAIR system. Many others to follow, TPS adjustment, etc. Utilize the KB articles...very helpful. I'm sure you will receive many suggestions on what to do. I also have an 01 and spent every evening this week doing things, to include removing the CA emissions. Gonna ride when I get off work. Good luck with yours, tyronne
Last edited by tbartley; 07-10-2009 at 01:16 PM. Reason: include the KBs
#4
In no particular order I found best bang for the buck from:
- braided SS lines
- racetech springs
- aftermarket pipes
I presume the original Michelin Macadams are loooong gone?
I did all the jetting, air-filter, sprocket changes you no doubt will have suggested to you shortly... I've since returned all these to their factory settings where I found peace and predictability.
If you cannot find a nice new svc. man. I'll be selling mine shortly.
- braided SS lines
- racetech springs
- aftermarket pipes
I presume the original Michelin Macadams are loooong gone?
I did all the jetting, air-filter, sprocket changes you no doubt will have suggested to you shortly... I've since returned all these to their factory settings where I found peace and predictability.
If you cannot find a nice new svc. man. I'll be selling mine shortly.
#5
Welcome! Nice score on the Hawk! I'm sure you will like it.
Not a performance mod but the first thing I did was this https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ead.php?t=9786
Not a performance mod but the first thing I did was this https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ead.php?t=9786
#7
if your north of 140lbs... fork springs !
the progressive stock springs makes the bike ( chassis ) unstable & front end dive on the brakes can see you at the bottom of it's travel way too easy.
tim
the progressive stock springs makes the bike ( chassis ) unstable & front end dive on the brakes can see you at the bottom of it's travel way too easy.
tim
#8
#9
I did the front brakes (gixxer 6-pots but the rc51's are just as good and cheaper). Then I did front a rear suspension (racetechs in front and penske in year although Jamie's CBR rear shock is just as good and cheap).
Hawkrider is a good source for the fork rebuild.
Good Luck and be safe!
Hawkrider is a good source for the fork rebuild.
Good Luck and be safe!
#10
I did the front brakes (gixxer 6-pots but the rc51's are just as good and cheaper). Then I did front a rear suspension (racetechs in front and penske in year although Jamie's CBR rear shock is just as good and cheap).
Hawkrider is a good source for the fork rebuild.
Good Luck and be safe!
Hawkrider is a good source for the fork rebuild.
Good Luck and be safe!
I guess now would be the time to ask how much you weigh and how do you ride the bike (street\track, street only, etc) and then you can get some suspension advice the will fit your application.
Other than that the TPS mod is very helpful in getting the bike to idle properly and from there you can decide on things like slip ons or jet kits
#12
Put a 5mm spacer over your rear shock to increase ride height.
http://www.vtr1000.org/faq_sspacer.htm
http://www.vtr1000.org/faq_sspacer.htm
#13
I guess now would be the time to ask how much you weigh and how do you ride the bike (street\track, street only, etc) and then you can get some suspension advice the will fit your application.
Other than that the TPS mod is very helpful in getting the bike to idle properly and from there you can decide on things like slip ons or jet kits Attachment 6616
Other than that the TPS mod is very helpful in getting the bike to idle properly and from there you can decide on things like slip ons or jet kits Attachment 6616
Wow thanks everyone for the information, I weigh 150lbs and I ride street. I bought the bike brand new off the showroom floor in 2003... it had been sitting at the Honda Kawasaki dealership in Medford OR for 2 years and no one bought it. I love it and now that I have it paid off i want to do some things to it.
#14
Put a 5mm spacer over your rear shock to increase ride height.
http://www.vtr1000.org/faq_sspacer.htm
http://www.vtr1000.org/faq_sspacer.htm
#16
a sticker. it is the most bang for your single buck. but for this to happen it must read in big clear pink letter. NO FAT GIRLZ!!!!
hahahahaa. i am under the mentality that this sticker must be placed on the rear seat cowl as to deter exceeding the factory recomended weight of 390.
ahahahaah
hahahahaa. i am under the mentality that this sticker must be placed on the rear seat cowl as to deter exceeding the factory recomended weight of 390.
ahahahaah
#18
I am with Nuhawk here - brakes first. Plenty of info on brake upgrades on here. I went with CBR600F4i calipers and master cylinder. Much more confidence in the bike with good brakes. Very important.
Suspension next. Front first, and then the rear if the budget allows.
Then turn your attention to other things. Just remember "performance" is not just the engine.
Happy modding!!!!!! Once you start it is hard to stop!!!!!!
Suspension next. Front first, and then the rear if the budget allows.
Then turn your attention to other things. Just remember "performance" is not just the engine.
Happy modding!!!!!! Once you start it is hard to stop!!!!!!
#19
I would say the best bang for the buck is a set of good tires. I run Diablo Corsa III's and it was night and day over stock. do this and then get your suspension settled. i say this because if you do the suspension first it changes the handling of the bike and people tend to get froggy. do this on **** tires and it = TROUBLE.
#20
Front suspension, meaning a set of springs with the proper rate for your weight and fresh oil and maybe even a revalve. The stock fork is dangerous in my opinion. Although the stock brakes aren't great, they can be made pretty good with a set of EBC or other brake pads.
#21
Fork work is good first. You really need to work the dampening if you go with heavy springs (0.8 or higher rates). I put stock F3 springs in (0.717 rate) & they work well with Gold Valves (I weigh about 200). Tires will also help provide better grip (works great with suspension mods also).
I'd lower the forks in the triples BEFORE adding a shock spacer (it's free & lowers the bike's CG, not raises it). I never could understand why folks raise the tail...doesn't this work the same?
I'd lower the forks in the triples BEFORE adding a shock spacer (it's free & lowers the bike's CG, not raises it). I never could understand why folks raise the tail...doesn't this work the same?
#22
so much depends on how you ride and what you feel are the biggest limitations in your bike right now. If you just want to start working on the bike more, being sure it is in great shape, changing radiator fluid, hydraulic fluids, checking valve adjustments maybe CCT replacement depending on mileage. If the chain is worn to limits a 520 upgrade and regearing is very noticeable.
The place to start is maintenance and then start on the things that annoy you. For me that was the brakes, the rear shock and the front fork and seat. Its a whole different bike after that. if your budget allows you can replace parts, cheaper alternatives include using Greg's services for forks and Jamie for the rear shock has gotten great reviews also. Braided lines and sintered pads make a world of difference too. But maybe you love the bike and are unaware of its blemishes? then spend the money on a track school. when your abilities expand and uncover areas that area problem then work on them.
good luck. I'm betting most mods you can think of has been written about here in detail.
The place to start is maintenance and then start on the things that annoy you. For me that was the brakes, the rear shock and the front fork and seat. Its a whole different bike after that. if your budget allows you can replace parts, cheaper alternatives include using Greg's services for forks and Jamie for the rear shock has gotten great reviews also. Braided lines and sintered pads make a world of difference too. But maybe you love the bike and are unaware of its blemishes? then spend the money on a track school. when your abilities expand and uncover areas that area problem then work on them.
good luck. I'm betting most mods you can think of has been written about here in detail.
#23
Without a doubt the front suspension needs sorting out first. It is dangerous in stock form. Change the front springs and while you're at it, install a compression gold valve. If you are primarily interested in street riding, go with the standard gold valve set up. If you plan on doing a lot of track days, go with stiffer compression dampening. Once that is done, drop the front 10mm in the triple clamps and install a 5-6mm spacer in the rear. Set up the proper front and rear sag and the Firestorm will then handle quite nicely, all be it a little portly compared to most modern bikes. Last year I changed out the rear shock with an Ohlins unit. I wish I had done so earlier. This made a tremendous difference. The only draw back is the expense.
Exhaust pipes, HH brake pads, SS braided lines, carb kit and a 43 rear sprocket would then be on the most do list. The mods you choose may be different based on your requirements and of course available $$.
Exhaust pipes, HH brake pads, SS braided lines, carb kit and a 43 rear sprocket would then be on the most do list. The mods you choose may be different based on your requirements and of course available $$.
#24
Fork work is good first. You really need to work the dampening if you go with heavy springs (0.8 or higher rates). I put stock F3 springs in (0.717 rate) & they work well with Gold Valves (I weigh about 200). Tires will also help provide better grip (works great with suspension mods also).
I'd lower the forks in the triples BEFORE adding a shock spacer (it's free & lowers the bike's CG, not raises it). I never could understand why folks raise the tail...doesn't this work the same?
I'd lower the forks in the triples BEFORE adding a shock spacer (it's free & lowers the bike's CG, not raises it). I never could understand why folks raise the tail...doesn't this work the same?
Also, lowering C of G on a bike is not all it is cracked up to be. You need to be able to turn the things, something Honda learned about with their grand prix bikes in the 80's. Minor issue here though methinks.
#30
i bought mine in august and my sig shows whats been done to it in the last month. havent had a chance to ride it yet but riding in stock form and having the chance to ride a couple super sport bikes ill tell you this, suspension first, then brakes. and then tires unless they need replacing now. the suspension is nice and soft for longer trips but once you get to ride an ss bike its night and day difference. also the brakes on most ss bikes are superior to these. this front setup feels soft compared to anything from an ss bike and as much as it works its more designed with people who just mash the lever in mind. i had a gixxer 750 setup done, was gonna run the 6 pot 1000 cc gixxer brakes but my buddy who races said alot of guys upgrade to the 750 brakes as they hold more fluid and wont fade out like the 6 pots will. mind you id likely never see any brake fade but to be safe i figured why not