It does look good. Like the other have said, let us know how it works.

 

I'm embarrassed to say

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=23298

Fortunately necessity is the mother of invention.

Any how put 20 miles on this morning and all seems well so far. Its about 80 out and the temp gauge never went past 1/2. mostly ran between just over 1/4 to just below 1/2. I would say that is a touch cooler than it used to run. Davies,Craig sells a temp controller that you can choose the temp from 75C to 95C. It will cycle the pump on and off and slow it down and speed it up. It is a bout a $200+ gizmo and at this point, I'm not sure I need it. Probably would be good though for cold spring and fall mornings.

As far a power, she is feeling quite strong, but I have several new changes going on - Dr Hondas intakes, a new BMC filter (replace the OEM the mouse munched on), Factory +4 advancer and finally the Electric pump. On the road she pulls strong but sitting in the driveway she stumbles abit when I snap open the throttle, so I believe some tuning is in order. I think the Flow commander will be next on my list.

Here she is just before my ride. Need to trim the chin fairing a bit to clear the pump, but overall it is quite unnoticeable.
Going to head back out and put another 70+miles on. I'll report back tonight.

 

How do you have your carbs jetted? and good to hear that things are working.

 

Still seems to be working. Rode about 75 miles, back roads, some in town, some highway. Lots of quick shots up to 100+. Bike really feels stronger across a wide range.
Today was mid 80s and the temp gauge seems to be reading what it always does - basically in the middle. A few times stopped at lights in town it would creep past middle and the fan would come on and bring it right back down.
I suspect on cool mornings it will probably run a bit cooler - no thermostat and all.

The only issue is one hose connection - I have reduced the 1" 90 angle hose to 3/4 (size of the pump hose barb) by inserting a piece of 3/4" hose in side the 1" and then cranking it down on the pump with really tight hose clamp. It will drip if i don't really tighten it. Even so it still slightly weeps.
This area is way to tight for me to fit a reducer. I'm thinking maybe a bit of rubber cement on the 3/4 to help seal itto the 1". Does that make sense? any other ideas?
Over all I'd have to say this has worked out quite well.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=370414331713


Solved!

 

great ! i knew it would work.

 

Not exactly sure as the PO put the Dynojet kit in. Based on what I read and the experiences of several others I always planned to put in a flow commander. Would have had it by now, but was sidetracked with the water pump issue.
With the current set up I'm guessing I'm a tad rich but I'll let the FC direct me.

 

Thanks for the heads up. I've asked them for the dimensions of each leg but haven't heard back yet. It might do the trick.

 

Update: + 10 days and about 450miles and all is still well. If you value gas mileage things are great. Filled up 3 times so far at 43, 44 and 46mpg. This is a solid 10% better than what I used to average. On the first two fill ups i was concerned my low fuel light had stopped working so filled up before it came on. Usually pops on at 122 - 130 miles, now I'm getting 140 +. I'm guessing the +4 advancer and water pump are mostly responsible.
She feels stronger and drinks less. Alls well that ends well...

 

I am here in Oz, can I ask you what you did about the original water pump after removing the gears.

Did you leave the shaft and impeller in or did you remove them?


Sorry if I missed something in your posts..


I am wanting to do the same mod.

 

I have finaly finished fitting the Davies Craig electric water pump and alls well.

The bike runs perfectly.

Can some one tell me how to post pictures?

 

sorry not to answer, had not been on the forum in a while.

As for the original pump, I left the shaft in place but I removed the impellor blades. I get that is kind of hokey, but I figued the seal on the original shaft wasn't leaking and If I fully removed it i would have to come up with a way to seal the case.

 

I have been riding the bike a bit lately and can also report that with the electric pump and other mods such as 4 degree advancer and lightened flywheel that the bike is much improved .

A lot of hassle but worth it in the end.


Bike operates normally and definitely has More oomph according to the seat dyno.

 

Did you ever get to test out the water pump specifically, or was it part of a bulk mod process?

 

Part of a bulk mod .

I saw the mod on here and wanted something different.


I would be curious as to what effect it would have if it was a stand alone mod.


As it is with all the mods done the bike is performing nicely, heaps quicker, smoother running, less fuel used.


I also have dyno jet kit, removed pair, T.P.S mod, Musarri end cans, and a couple of other bits as well as flywheel etc.




The bike now has the oomph I was looking for.


Now for the brakes, the endless quest.

 

Ken - get your pics up! I'm curious if you designed yours like mine. Did you leave your carb coolant line attached? I did, that what the Tee is for below.

Over this past winter the nylon Tee 3/4 x 3/4 x 3/8 broke. as this really needed to be 3/4 x 1/2x 3/8, I had a buddy with a lathe and a welder make me a custom one. Running 100% water with Redline water wetter and all is good this year.

 

Hi , Sorry to reply so late.

I have now done approx. 2,000K'S with the electric water pump and the bike is as strong as ever.

I used brass fittings and still have the carbs hooked up.

I have a switch installed that can turn the pump on and off however this could cause more problems by creating hot spots.

I can't bring myself to buy the Davies Craig kit to cycle the pump at a cost of over $300- Aust.

It is currently winter where I am and I was thinking of making an alloy plate to slide over one of the radiators to make the bike run hotter in winter, and then take it out in summer as the temp gets up to high 40 C here.

At the moment I can't get it to run any hotter than 81 unless I turn the pump off.

As for mounting the pump it is roughly in the same position as yours and I run standard coolant of good quality.

All in all happy with the conversion.

What temp does yours run at?

 

Mine is a 99 so I only have a gauge, not digital. 50f mornings needle is at 1/4. 85f afternoons it can go over 1/2 in traffic and have the fan kick on. All in all much like the mechanical set up.

Agree on the temp controller. $300 is a bit dear and I'm not sure it is needed. Perhaps if I rode in cool /cold weather but I don't so it is fine

 

An update on the electric pump.

Just did a 2000klm ride over 3 days and bike performed flawlessly.


Only concern is the fact that the bike ran between 68 and 81 degrees celcius over the trip.


The air temp was between 12 to 24 degrees and I think the bike is running too cold.


Fuel economy was good and bike ran smooth.


I will find out what temp 2005 models run at, and may have to purchase the temp controller from Davies Craig after all!

 

Too cold? Is your thermostat bypassed? Also, are you doing the reading via the gauge cluster only?

 

The thermostat has to be removed when you fit the electric pump.

My readings are via the cluster, and if my memory is correct the temp sender is located in the thermostat housing.


Continuous water circulation is the problem, however the pump manufacturer does a kit that allows you to set the temperature range by speeding up and slowing down the pump.


They want $300 OZ for it which is a bit pricey for me.


I have a manual over ride switch fitted and am concerned that because the sender unit is located all the way back in the thermo housing that if I turn the pump off whilst riding that I could be creating hot spots in the engine and blow a head gasket.


I an now contemplating making up some removable plates that partially block the air flow to the radiators that I can quickly remove when summer comes.


Who would of thought it, a VTR that has a cooling system that is too efficient!!!


Another thought is to go to an auto electrician and have a rheostat switch fitted that allows me to alter the speed of the pump.

 

That's an amazing problem! I wonder if you could just use a fan switch- stock or maybe aftermarket- to speed up the pump once it hits 85* or 100*. It would be more crude than an adjusting one, but perhaps it would be all you need.

Why do you have to remove the thermostat? Back pressure hard on the pump or something?

Yes, temperature sender for computer and gauges are both in the thermostat housing.

 

The thermo had to be removed as the pump runs continuously at a higher volume than the original mechanical pump and could cause problems due to the extra volume of water being moved when the thermostat is closed by way of pressure.

I still like the idea of a rheostat a switch to adjust the speed of the pump to achieve the desired temp.

 

Just thinking out loud here, but maybe look into how hotrodder's do it. There are several company's that sell electric water pumps for common V8 engines. See how they set up thier electric water pumps and maybe you can do the same thing on the Superhawk?

 

Here are some pics of the pump after installation.

Many trouble free miles and bike runs at approx 81c on a hot day.

Alls good !

 

More pics.