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Dynojet 4th and 5th clip positions & mains

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Old 11-23-2011 | 06:28 PM
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Dynojet 4th and 5th clip positions & mains

My bike is so close to perfection but....here we go....

Dynojet kit installed as listed-
I am running 180f/185r mains
Stock pilot jets
Stock air filter
Sea level 60F
PAIR removed

With my needle in the 4th positions, the bike is just a tad lean ( plugs a tad white) Mileage is 35 under heavy spirited riding

With the needle in the 5th clip position, the bike runs a tad rich ( plug ring too black) Mileage is 30 mpg under heavy spirited riding.

It seems I am in between clip positions. The WOT top end pull is great on both clip #4 and #5.
Midrange pull is close on both clips with a slight edge going to #4.

So my question is: If I install 175f/180r mains and stay on clip #5 will the bike run richer than 180f/185r on clip #4?

I've read many threads on this but would like to find someone who has these dynojets configs.

Thanks.

Last edited by Matt_Hawk; 11-23-2011 at 06:48 PM.
Old 11-23-2011 | 06:42 PM
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why not just add a washer, that equals a half step. Are you running both in the same slot (front and back?)
Old 11-23-2011 | 06:52 PM
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Yes I am...same slot on both.

There is a small washer under each needle and another one on top of each needle's clip. I was wondering about that. So if I took the above washer and added it under the needle while at #4 I would have 2 washers under it.
That's about a half-a-notch?
Old 11-23-2011 | 06:57 PM
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IIRC, one clip position is 0.040" (or is that 0.050"?). Get a cheap digital caliper and measure some small washers to find ones that will suit your fine-tuning needs.
Old 11-23-2011 | 10:42 PM
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Check the carb setup thread but to tmk the rear has to run slightly different (1/2 step) from the front. Too lazy to look it up for you but search it. This is due to header length difference. The determining washer is the one beneath the needle, which raises it half a step.
Old 11-24-2011 | 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73
Check the carb setup thread but to tmk the rear has to run slightly different (1/2 step) from the front. Too lazy to look it up for you but search it. This is due to header length difference. The determining washer is the one beneath the needle, which raises it half a step.
Well actually it is due to the rear cylinder running hotter than the front....
Old 11-24-2011 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by RK1
My 2 cents...

You don't mention your exhaust system so hard to evaluate.

Unless you've got race cans or a full race system, You'd be better off with 175/180 mains and needles at 5. That's what I've got with V&H street cans.

My bike carburets perfectly. I get 43-45 mpg on the highway at 70-75 with plenty of roll-ons up to 90-95 for giggles.
I've got Yoshimura's with street baffles.
I like those numbers. They make sense. I may leave it in clip#5 and go with 175/180.

What elevation are you running?
Old 11-29-2011 | 07:06 PM
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Thought I would update this thread-

I installed 2 of the smallest washers I could find at Ace Hardware.
They were just shy of the thickness of the steps on the dynojet needles.
No micrometer -so I eyeballed it with a magnifying glass.

So, I left it on Clip #4 with the two very small washers -in addition to the already very small one under the dynojet needle as well. Total of 3. Both carbs the same.

Also, I enriched the mixture screws by around 1/3 -1/2 turn out. I started with the front leading carb. I did it by rpm sound so I don't know how far in from a soft seat. I don't care.

The bike runs perfect at sea level and 65f-72f air.

I stayed relatively light on the throttle for a tankful-
The low fuel light came on at 119.1 miles and it took 3.06 USA gallons.
So, I am getting 38.92 miles per gallon...call it 39.
Both cylinders plugs look perfect... light carbon ring with tan ground strap.

It seems every hawk is different -along with all the other variables. You've just got to open her up and tinker with it.

NOTE: As stated in the other threads by Superhawk gurus, these California bikes run really lean at low rpm. Seems like the previous owner just had the shop stick in the dynojet, set it according to paper, and then called it a day. Not a way to tune. By the way- most of my bad mileage was in my right wrist!

THANKS.
Old 11-29-2011 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt_Hawk
Also, I enriched the mixture screws by around 1/3 -1/2 turn out. I started with the front leading carb. I did it by rpm sound so I don't know how far in from a soft seat. I don't care.
Well it is good to know where they are set at so you can determine if you have the correct size pilot jet installed.

Originally Posted by Matt_Hawk
I stayed relatively light on the throttle for a tankful-
The low fuel light came on at 119.1 miles and it took 3.06 USA gallons.
So, I am getting 38.92 miles per gallon...call it 39.
Both cylinders plugs look perfect... light carbon ring with tan ground strap.
Did you correct for your gearing change? If not you are closer to 35-36 mpg
Old 11-29-2011 | 10:37 PM
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Unless I am mistaken, the only way washers change needle hieght is under the needle, which shims it up. Each step of the clip raises it by that much. A whole stack of washers on top wont push it down any.
Plus wouldnt crazy good gas milage just mean very lean so less gas metered per mile?Good for milage but not ideal for the bike.
You cant tell but I am glad for you that you got it jetted.
Old 11-29-2011 | 10:55 PM
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These are good points:

No on any gearing compensation. My 16/43 will read high I suppose. 36mpg I can live with. The reason for the washers was to put me in between the needle clips.

Pilot jets are stock. Perhaps someone has touched the mixture screws before I wrenched on it?
I tune by sound and feel.

All I know is the bike is running perfect on all circuits and transition.
Power is way up. I can ride it at 2k rpm and have it pull smooth.
Plugs are beautiful.
Mileage is okay.

If you're on the Central Coast, you should ride this one. It the fastest stock motor Superhawk I've ridden so far.
I just swapped bikes with a guy that has a Suzuki SV1000 completely stock. My Superhawk literally blew it away. He was really impressed.
Old 11-29-2011 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73
Unless I am mistaken, the only way washers change needle hieght is under the needle, which shims it up. Each step of the clip raises it by that much. A whole stack of washers on top wont push it down any.
Plus wouldnt crazy good gas milage just mean very lean so less gas metered per mile?Good for milage but not ideal for the bike.
You cant tell but I am glad for you that you got it jetted.
Yes...All 3 washers are UNDER the needle clip. Sorry if my writing is confusing. Bike is not lean in any way. Mileage is more like 36mpg as someone else pointed out my gearing padded those numbers.

EDIT: I REALLY like tuning with mico-washer shims rather than clip positions as mentioned on these threads.
It gives the ability to fine tune. Funny thing is I don't see many threads on spark plug readings. Why? That's important.

Last edited by Matt_Hawk; 11-29-2011 at 11:06 PM.
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