Custom Exhaust
#1
Custom Exhaust
Pk, so I have a chance to get a 100% custom exhaust build from scratch for my Hawk. Currently I have Jardine slipons and would love to get rid of all those twisties I see underneath.
Problem is, I can't really think of what exactly I want as I reayy don't have alot of experience with exhaust systems. I was thinking about maybe using Titanuim to shed some weight but what does everyone else think???
Problem is, I can't really think of what exactly I want as I reayy don't have alot of experience with exhaust systems. I was thinking about maybe using Titanuim to shed some weight but what does everyone else think???
#2
whats the price range gonna be for you? im a fan of stainless steel. its always shiney and doesnt rust. not sure about titanium as i dont have any experience with it. basically you wanna make as few bends as possible and keep any bends as minimal as you can, so dont put in 90 degree bends. also make sure its mandrel bent.
#3
Well since my high mount leo's are now hitting the sp2 swingarm I'm thinking of possibly having custom mids made to go with either a pair of tyga moto maggots or those sick ladybird gp cans. $$$$$$
#4
These... but I'm thinking you won't gain any points with the neighbors You'd either need to fab up custom mids or use the rc51 mids. The right side should work fine, the left would need a little modding where it meets the header.
Last edited by captainchaos; 10-09-2009 at 07:15 AM.
#5
I would def. go for full titanium, If he doesnt charge you out the *** for it and he can weld it. It would be much lighter weight than the stock header and has that cool coloring after ran awhile!
#6
Well here's the deal, he runs a shop making custom exhaust for high end race cars like BMW's, Porsche and Ferrari for a local racing club. He said he was interested in making one for my bike and that if I pay for the supplies he'll make whatever I want for free.
#7
I would suggest you copy a known design. Plenty of time and money is spent on development, and unless you want to do this yourself I would stick with what you know works.
Ti is a lot lighter than steel. My Ti headers must way less than half of the stock pipes I reckon.
Ti is a lot lighter than steel. My Ti headers must way less than half of the stock pipes I reckon.
#8
Most important as you don't want to end up with something that looks good but actually gives you less power (bhp or torque or even both).
#9
Screw the neighbors Cap'n, tygas,tygas,tygas, sweet.
#11
Agreed. A big mistake that is often made in exhaust design is to just lay it in however the pipes fit best. This often makes for a very poor performing system. With an V configuration engine you have to tune the exhaust (equal length doesn't work, if that's what you were thinking) which usually requires some trial and error. Most of the time, in my experiences, the final design is a real challenge to fit into the space available.
#12
Going with a design that has already been engineered and proven to work makes perfect sense. As for tuning, I really have no idea how that works but I suspect that he does since he does custon work for race cars.
I really like the Sato racing exhaust but can't seem to find any specific technical information on them. Fortuantely a mutual friend of our has one on his RC-51. I'm sure he would be willing to let us take some measurements.
I really like the Sato racing exhaust but can't seem to find any specific technical information on them. Fortuantely a mutual friend of our has one on his RC-51. I'm sure he would be willing to let us take some measurements.
Last edited by Grizz; 10-10-2009 at 02:02 AM.
#13
Agreed. A big mistake that is often made in exhaust design is to just lay it in however the pipes fit best. This often makes for a very poor performing system. With an V configuration engine you have to tune the exhaust (equal length doesn't work, if that's what you were thinking) which usually requires some trial and error. Most of the time, in my experiences, the final design is a real challenge to fit into the space available.
If i have two midpipes fabbed up to turn my stock cans into high mounts is this going to affect the performance overall? I was unaware of the exhaust tuning info you were talking about.
#14
Well, the "midpipe" as it's called on a slip-on is part of the stock muffler, it's welded on, so you'll have to cut that of and make a new midpipe and join them up... It won't work just sticking a pipe in between, angles and lenght makes it impossible...
As long as you keep the pipes at rougly the same lenght as stock and keep the turns smooth it won't affect much... The tuning is done mostly in the bends down low around the engine and the respective length of the total pipe...
Plus for your project you need to redo (cut off/remount) the mounts on the lower part of the pipe (by the pegs) and probably the upper one's to as they are welded to the muffler... So if you are very skilled and have lots of time and a small budget it's a feasible plan...
But it's probably both cheaper and more effective to go aftermarket if you count working hours and what they really cost...
As long as you keep the pipes at rougly the same lenght as stock and keep the turns smooth it won't affect much... The tuning is done mostly in the bends down low around the engine and the respective length of the total pipe...
Plus for your project you need to redo (cut off/remount) the mounts on the lower part of the pipe (by the pegs) and probably the upper one's to as they are welded to the muffler... So if you are very skilled and have lots of time and a small budget it's a feasible plan...
But it's probably both cheaper and more effective to go aftermarket if you count working hours and what they really cost...
#15
By "exhaust design" I'm referring to the section before the collector. The pipes that go from the collector to the mufflers don't really matter as the effect on performance is minimal.
#17
It's basic exhaust theory really. There are many books and such on the subject that can explain it better than I can.
#18
Jamie, I think I understand; that makes sense to me.
Grizz, there's a good website where you can go to get MORE info: http://www.burnsstainless.com
They build tubing & collectors for racing applications, and they have some theory pages.
A good place for honest info, and some pics to boot.
Grizz, there's a good website where you can go to get MORE info: http://www.burnsstainless.com
They build tubing & collectors for racing applications, and they have some theory pages.
A good place for honest info, and some pics to boot.
#19
Jamie, I think I understand; that makes sense to me.
Grizz, there's a good website where you can go to get MORE info: http://www.burnsstainless.com
They build tubing & collectors for racing applications, and they have some theory pages.
A good place for honest info, and some pics to boot.
Grizz, there's a good website where you can go to get MORE info: http://www.burnsstainless.com
They build tubing & collectors for racing applications, and they have some theory pages.
A good place for honest info, and some pics to boot.
#20
Grizz,
I'd be interested to see the final product when you're done. Are you going with a single cannister setup, or standard duals?
BTW, about materials...stainless is easier for your builder to work, but slightly heavier & way stronger. Titanium is lighter (about 60% the weight of SS), but loses a lot of strength when heated (welds can break and such). Ti is also more expensive for raw materials.
My brother recently hand-built a pipe for his 87VFR, and it was stainless with a carbon cannister. Way lighter than stock, just as strong, and moderately inexpensive.
I can forward pics to your PM or email if you like.
Andy
I'd be interested to see the final product when you're done. Are you going with a single cannister setup, or standard duals?
BTW, about materials...stainless is easier for your builder to work, but slightly heavier & way stronger. Titanium is lighter (about 60% the weight of SS), but loses a lot of strength when heated (welds can break and such). Ti is also more expensive for raw materials.
My brother recently hand-built a pipe for his 87VFR, and it was stainless with a carbon cannister. Way lighter than stock, just as strong, and moderately inexpensive.
I can forward pics to your PM or email if you like.
Andy
#21
Custom Exhaust
Hello there everyone
I recently purchased a Pulse Adrenaline 125cc. This is the same motorcycle as the QingQi XF125GY and so on depending on the country.
I am looking to buy a new, louder, performance exhaust for the bike, but I dont know which exhaust could fit it. I have seen the custom exhaust for the 200cc version but not the 125.
Does anyone know any exhaust that I could use for this bike?
Thank you very much in advance for your help
Rainer.
I recently purchased a Pulse Adrenaline 125cc. This is the same motorcycle as the QingQi XF125GY and so on depending on the country.
I am looking to buy a new, louder, performance exhaust for the bike, but I dont know which exhaust could fit it. I have seen the custom exhaust for the 200cc version but not the 125.
Does anyone know any exhaust that I could use for this bike?
Thank you very much in advance for your help
Rainer.
#24
Twisties? The stock setup is about as straight a shot as one can get for a 2-1-2 system.. Some aftermarket complete exhausts have extra twists (esp for the rear cyl) to improve performance, but I don't know what twisties you are talking about on the stock headers.
#25
I gave away a TBR header (tin foil) that came with my Superhawk and Jet-Hot the the stocker. The stock header is the best primary for the bike. Your jetting and aftermarket piping from there is all about tuning. It's also about pipes that will take the beating that the Superhawk meats out. Lots of vibes!
#26
Jamie, I think I understand; that makes sense to me.
Grizz, there's a good website where you can go to get MORE info: http://www.burnsstainless.com
They build tubing & collectors for racing applications, and they have some theory pages.
A good place for honest info, and some pics to boot.
Grizz, there's a good website where you can go to get MORE info: http://www.burnsstainless.com
They build tubing & collectors for racing applications, and they have some theory pages.
A good place for honest info, and some pics to boot.
I like burns, but some money can be saved. Use other suppliers to fit your needs and cost where applicable. S&S headers have supplied material for the last three projects I have done.
#27
Thanks for all the posts guys, I've learned lots over the past month!! In the end, I think I am going to slow things down and wait until at least June or July as it is not winter here and I can't ride anyway. Also, I am playing with the idea of an undertail upgrade as well. I don't want to get a kick *** exhaust then wishing I should have waited so I could desig an undertail system.
#28
Have a look at the ozfirestorm site, there is a chap on there who replaced the stock collector with one of his own design (those in the know claim the collector to be the weak link in the stock set-up). You could perhaps have a system fabbed that copies the stock header and revised collector all fashioned from titanium for weight savings and improved performance. You could also look at getting a replica of an existing system made too. The caveat there is that if your engine has stock internals (ie. no mods or very light mods), chances are you will gain very little from an aftermarket replica full system.
#29
As I've been reliably informed, the best, and only exhaust ever built purely for the Firestorm is the moriwaki Ti system, with the specific Zero's attached. This would be ideal to copy.... as for getting one... rocking horse ****, and hen's teeth spring to mind...
#30
cans
Hi new to this forum,, so Hi to all,, as for ur question,, ghanged mine to stainless,, and have to say the cheaper of the two,,, titainium,, dear,, yes, lighter yes,, but using stainless,, use lightest gauge,,, maint' free,, and look well when cleaned,,,,