Considering a Sprocket Change
#1
Considering a Sprocket Change
Iv been thinking about doing a Sprocket change for some time now and have finaly decided to order the parts and do it.
Iv got a few questions that id like some opinions on:
Iv been considering going with 15/41 gearing. I want to have a bit more acceleration through the gears and be able to pull the front wheel up in second easier (right now i guess the bike needs a tune-up because on the stock gearing i have to stand and really bounce hard on the front to get it up in second) is the 15/41 a good setup for the street or should i go with a different setup?
Iv been looking on www.bikebandit.com and noticed that the only way to get chains and sprockets through them as well as some other sites as one kit is with the stock sizes. I was wondering if anyone knew of a good place to go to get different sizing in the kits at a good price?
Also, when pricing out buying the parts separately on www.bikebandit.com I couldnt really decide if I should go for steel sprockets or aluminum ones. I understand that there is a performance gain to be had with the rotating mass you lose going to aluminum but do they wear out too fast to make it worth it?
Thanks ahead of time guys.
Iv got a few questions that id like some opinions on:
Iv been considering going with 15/41 gearing. I want to have a bit more acceleration through the gears and be able to pull the front wheel up in second easier (right now i guess the bike needs a tune-up because on the stock gearing i have to stand and really bounce hard on the front to get it up in second) is the 15/41 a good setup for the street or should i go with a different setup?
Iv been looking on www.bikebandit.com and noticed that the only way to get chains and sprockets through them as well as some other sites as one kit is with the stock sizes. I was wondering if anyone knew of a good place to go to get different sizing in the kits at a good price?
Also, when pricing out buying the parts separately on www.bikebandit.com I couldnt really decide if I should go for steel sprockets or aluminum ones. I understand that there is a performance gain to be had with the rotating mass you lose going to aluminum but do they wear out too fast to make it worth it?
Thanks ahead of time guys.
#2
IMHO 15/41 should be fine for the street and you should be able to use your stocker chain unless it's already stretched way out...
It's a nice little DIY project you can do in no time...just order the new 15 tooth front and I think it should be hardened steel...good luck bro!
It's a nice little DIY project you can do in no time...just order the new 15 tooth front and I think it should be hardened steel...good luck bro!
#3
I like 15/43, but some consider it too buzzy for the street. You don't lose any top end with the shorter gearing and you get a noticeable improvement in acceleration in any gear from any speed.
For the street I would go with steel sprockets.
For the street I would go with steel sprockets.
#4
+1 on the 15/43 Killer! I love that setup, but if you run down the interstate at 90 mph a lot you may not like carrying the higher RPMs that cause the buzzing and you'll need a speedo healer for sure with the 15/43, but stocker chain works great with that setup too...
#5
i went with the Sum of All Parts 520 kit and was very pleased with the results
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA...spagenameZWD1V
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA...spagenameZWD1V
#7
+1 on the 520 kit for $160 Radio!
Did you add a speedo healer? I found that with the 15/43 setup I was actually running 70 mph when the speedo read 80 mph, so I put on a healer on and reads correctly now!
http://www.calsportbike.com/cgi-bin/...d=1988&count=1
Did you add a speedo healer? I found that with the 15/43 setup I was actually running 70 mph when the speedo read 80 mph, so I put on a healer on and reads correctly now!
http://www.calsportbike.com/cgi-bin/...d=1988&count=1
#9
15/43 all the way! Aluminum sprockets aren't the best, but for $160 on Ebay, its not that big a deal. Just stay up on your chain adjusting and keep it lubed. I usually readjust every couple three hundred miles.
#10
seems like on bikebandit.com the steel rear sprockets are the cheapest anyway, and will probably last longer right?
you guys have me seriously considering the more aggressive 15/43 setup.... any idea what these two setups do to the already low top speed of the superhawk?
The only think thats got me thinkikng 15/43 is too aggressive is how much I end up on the highway while riding around town.
you guys have me seriously considering the more aggressive 15/43 setup.... any idea what these two setups do to the already low top speed of the superhawk?
The only think thats got me thinkikng 15/43 is too aggressive is how much I end up on the highway while riding around town.
#11
I've got 15/41 right now and love it everywhere except the highway. To cruise at 90mph the rpm's stay at 6+. 15/43 might be a bit drastic, IMHO.
And it does hurt top end, no doubt about it. I don't find out very often but I think with 15/41 I'm probably maxing out around 140.
And it does hurt top end, no doubt about it. I don't find out very often but I think with 15/41 I'm probably maxing out around 140.
#17
RIP Zy! You will always be in our hearts.
SuperSport
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 569
From: Asheville, NC
#18
RIP Zy! You will always be in our hearts.
SuperSport
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 569
From: Asheville, NC
#19
With stock gearing that's correct. The bike won't pull to redline in 6th with the stock setup. You don't lose any top end with shorter gearing because now the bike will pull to redline in 6th.
#21
For a street bike, top speed is the thing that least interests me.
#22
If I minded top speed, the Superhawk wouldn't be in my garage. I'm more into the neck snapping acceleration. My friends know not to even try to drag me at a light. Even with stock gearing it is plenty quick, but I can't even imagine how 15/43 is going to be once I install.
#25
Hows about just adding 1 or 2 teeth to the rear sprocket? It's time for me to buy the old C&S, so I thought maybe 16/42 or 3 in a 520, with steel sprockets. Will I need extra chain?
Almost every sport bike, in my opinion could use a tooth or two on the rear, Ducs usually need at least two. That is money, and not much, well spent. They overgear 'em to help pass the ride-by sound test, and get top speed when operated by a five year old weighing 40 lbs.
Almost every sport bike, in my opinion could use a tooth or two on the rear, Ducs usually need at least two. That is money, and not much, well spent. They overgear 'em to help pass the ride-by sound test, and get top speed when operated by a five year old weighing 40 lbs.
#26
I have the 520 conversion with 15/43 sprockets and I love this set up. The difference is huge. The bike does not lug if in a higer gear at slower speeds when you wick the throttle open. Pulls great on the highway for passing or just speed runs in 6th gear. Before I had to downshift to 5th or 4th to have any fun. It is a little buzzier on the higway but not enough to make me care. The drive through the first three gears is eye opening after doing the change. On the track it works perfect. Just my 2 cents. Definitely go with steel sprockets. I got 4k out of my vortex and it should have been replaced around 3300. The AFAM I have on now I've gotten about 7k miles and have to replace it soon.
#27
I've read that the minimum front sprocket size is 14 teeth, lest wear accelerate.
I worked out the ratios and a 15/41 set is about the same as adding 3 teeth to the rear, stock front(16/44)
I'd rather stick with a stock front (16) and add teeth to the back, and you guys are pushing me towards two teeth! If going as far as 15/43 still gives a streetable bike...
But at what point will I need an extra link on the 520 (definitely) chain I buy. Will the stock axle provide slot to move the wheel forward "2 teeth" given a stock length chain?
I guess bikes may be more overgeared than I even thought. I often see people struggling with very expensive sport bikes, and it's so obvious- the thing is way overgeared. My oh my- two teeth will improve the zip, and make life easier for my clutch.
I worked out the ratios and a 15/41 set is about the same as adding 3 teeth to the rear, stock front(16/44)
I'd rather stick with a stock front (16) and add teeth to the back, and you guys are pushing me towards two teeth! If going as far as 15/43 still gives a streetable bike...
But at what point will I need an extra link on the 520 (definitely) chain I buy. Will the stock axle provide slot to move the wheel forward "2 teeth" given a stock length chain?
I guess bikes may be more overgeared than I even thought. I often see people struggling with very expensive sport bikes, and it's so obvious- the thing is way overgeared. My oh my- two teeth will improve the zip, and make life easier for my clutch.
#29
I run 16/43 and have no problem pulling it up in first (throttle) and second (slight jerk on dee clutch) and i still get good RPMs on the highway. And plenty of pull out of the corners... then again Im no Val rossi either so...
#30
"I run 16/43 and have no problem" yeah- that and CARBON FIBER wheels!
Thanks for the advice, yes 16/43 seems right.
And I won't need alonger chain?
When I got my Hawk, I thought it would be a bike with tremendous potential, obviously hobbled by it's mufflers, air-box and gearing. Than I had a bad experience getting the bike jetted, soent about a grand to get a poor running slower bike. Okay, I finally got that taken care of, my local Brothers Honda did a great job of returning the bike to (almost) stock jetting, and dynoed and adjusted and it's great. Okay, I finally got smart and got a Haynes for the Hawk, and it turns out to be an easy bike to work on, unitised and accesible. Okay,I'm not too smart, I should have got the book right away.
Now I'm getting juiced again.
Thanks for the advice, yes 16/43 seems right.
And I won't need alonger chain?
When I got my Hawk, I thought it would be a bike with tremendous potential, obviously hobbled by it's mufflers, air-box and gearing. Than I had a bad experience getting the bike jetted, soent about a grand to get a poor running slower bike. Okay, I finally got that taken care of, my local Brothers Honda did a great job of returning the bike to (almost) stock jetting, and dynoed and adjusted and it's great. Okay, I finally got smart and got a Haynes for the Hawk, and it turns out to be an easy bike to work on, unitised and accesible. Okay,I'm not too smart, I should have got the book right away.
Now I'm getting juiced again.