Carillo rods: opinions please
#1
Carillo rods: opinions please
Now that it finally seems as though my Akra full system will make its way home, my attention is turning to other things.
My plans at this time are to install the exhaust and new velocity stacks together, get it dyno tuned (should yield an honest 115 or so hp) and enjoy the bike in this state until the end of the summer.
I have most of the parts I need for the rebuild now (OS JE pistons, rings, will basically just need bearings and gaskets but need to wait to get the proper engine codes before ordering anyhow). I will also be installing Truck`s CCTs (if he ever returns my messages...) as well as Hyperplate aluminum clutch plates, new OEM fibre plates, and a Factory Pro detent arm kit.
All this leads to my question: should I perhaps put off the rebuild for a bit (as I do not have unlimited funds... my 11 month-old daughter helping in that regard, lol) and get Carillo rods (mostly for weight loss and quicker response) and a re-balancing of the crank (would love to have it smooooooooooooooth) or should I just go ahead and get it rebuilt in the Fall and be done with it? Part of me is thinking to wait a bit and do it up the best I can (meaning new rod and balancing) while the other part wonders if the added expense would be worth it?
Comments?
My plans at this time are to install the exhaust and new velocity stacks together, get it dyno tuned (should yield an honest 115 or so hp) and enjoy the bike in this state until the end of the summer.
I have most of the parts I need for the rebuild now (OS JE pistons, rings, will basically just need bearings and gaskets but need to wait to get the proper engine codes before ordering anyhow). I will also be installing Truck`s CCTs (if he ever returns my messages...) as well as Hyperplate aluminum clutch plates, new OEM fibre plates, and a Factory Pro detent arm kit.
All this leads to my question: should I perhaps put off the rebuild for a bit (as I do not have unlimited funds... my 11 month-old daughter helping in that regard, lol) and get Carillo rods (mostly for weight loss and quicker response) and a re-balancing of the crank (would love to have it smooooooooooooooth) or should I just go ahead and get it rebuilt in the Fall and be done with it? Part of me is thinking to wait a bit and do it up the best I can (meaning new rod and balancing) while the other part wonders if the added expense would be worth it?
Comments?
#6
Carillo rods would be more for the weight savings than anything else (loss of reciprocating weight would allow engine to spin up faster).
Looking at the additional costs it would entail (cost of rods, shipping, engine balancing), it is probably not worth it I am beginning to think....
Looking at the additional costs it would entail (cost of rods, shipping, engine balancing), it is probably not worth it I am beginning to think....
#7
Hey Mik, do you have the full measurements of the VTR rods, I would like to find some replacements, there's plenty of premium quality rods littering the junkyards, I have eight 143 mm rods in my garage, BMW use high quality forged sintered caps rods, you can get them in many sizes, If the VTR journals are the same size or bigger, it can be machined down to spec, that's the next project tough
Carillo are probably the best rods you can get, but Eagle is the best bang for the buck.
I have a little girl, 7 months old and I'm getting all the family needs before I put a penny on the bike, luckily I have some extra cash from working like crazy so I can still feed my projects, it takes longer but it's the only responsible way to go.
Carillo are probably the best rods you can get, but Eagle is the best bang for the buck.
I have a little girl, 7 months old and I'm getting all the family needs before I put a penny on the bike, luckily I have some extra cash from working like crazy so I can still feed my projects, it takes longer but it's the only responsible way to go.
Last edited by gboezio; 06-04-2009 at 06:21 PM.
#8
The rods are still in the engine, which is still in the bike. Nothing is apart at the moment so I can't help you with any info, sorry. Like you, I am not cutting corners on the family but my bike is my treat, my reward for working long hours.
#9
I hate to point out the obvious but get a lightened flywheel will give you way more bang for the buck than rod's or crank lightening at a fraction of the cost. The only reason to replace rods are A the stock rods can't handle the loads or B you've got more money than brains or C you're really into the last gram of reciprocating weight removal to some particular purpose.
I saw lightened flywheels here for $140 weighing nearly 50% less than stock..how much are Carillos and would they be half of stock..I doubt it and the cost would be far far more.
Really some of you guy's don't show a lot of common sense when it comes to performance vs expense especially when you're talking street bikes. For my money the chassis improvements and mild engine (stage 1)tweaks give you as much as you can reasonably expect from the SH design.
And if it's a choice between your families needs and your SH well there really isn't a decision is there.
I saw lightened flywheels here for $140 weighing nearly 50% less than stock..how much are Carillos and would they be half of stock..I doubt it and the cost would be far far more.
Really some of you guy's don't show a lot of common sense when it comes to performance vs expense especially when you're talking street bikes. For my money the chassis improvements and mild engine (stage 1)tweaks give you as much as you can reasonably expect from the SH design.
And if it's a choice between your families needs and your SH well there really isn't a decision is there.
Last edited by HRCA#1; 06-04-2009 at 07:55 PM.
#10
Well, sir, it just so happens I already have a lightened flywheel. As well, I have magnesium rims and a machined rear rotor. Need more? Have a look at my signature! Good enough for you?
AS far as family vs. hobby choices, my family lacks nothing. Also, I don"t drink of smoke like many others do so my bike gets most of my hobby money.
Perhaps you should read a bit before making statements of the kind!
AS far as family vs. hobby choices, my family lacks nothing. Also, I don"t drink of smoke like many others do so my bike gets most of my hobby money.
Perhaps you should read a bit before making statements of the kind!
#11
I think that his bike has pretty much all that's possible to improve.
A lighter flywheel and lighter rods are quite different, light flywheel just change engine inertia, using less power to accelerate the engine, while rods actually can make horsepower, by raising the RPM limit according that the cams, ports, compression are going the same way.
A lighter flywheel and lighter rods are quite different, light flywheel just change engine inertia, using less power to accelerate the engine, while rods actually can make horsepower, by raising the RPM limit according that the cams, ports, compression are going the same way.
#12
FWIW I am not looking to raise my rpm limit as it's a street build and not a race build (hence my reason not to seek out oversize valves, along with re-timing my exh cams by two degrees to move the power down the rev range). I also plan on keeping the bike for many years to come and to ride many miles along the way (so I want reliability adn durability).
I am trying to build my take on on the ultimate VTR street bike, with light weight, awseome brakes, excellent handling, good suspension and monster mid-range. I am quite close to my goal and the last few mods should move me firmly into Shangri-La.
I am trying to build my take on on the ultimate VTR street bike, with light weight, awseome brakes, excellent handling, good suspension and monster mid-range. I am quite close to my goal and the last few mods should move me firmly into Shangri-La.
#14
Rods and lightened crank will make a significant change in the seat of the pants acceleration. There is no other shaft on the bike that sees the RPM range, or rate of change in RPM as the crank.
It won't significantlhy change dyno results, but will change acceleration and engine braking significantly. The crank is heavy on a twin.
I think you've already made up your mind. But I say go for it. Is it sensible? Of course not.
It won't significantlhy change dyno results, but will change acceleration and engine braking significantly. The crank is heavy on a twin.
I think you've already made up your mind. But I say go for it. Is it sensible? Of course not.
#15
Nothing wrong with the stock rods for your purposes, so weight would be the only reason to swap them I think.
My brain tells me that the entire reciprocating assembly will work together in terms of acceleration. I think that if you wanted to save a few grams (perhaps ounces for you?) then it would be easier to just lighten the flywheel a bit more. Much simpler and cheaper for the same result I think.
Having said that, your assembly will be close to mine in terms of its weight, given our similar light weight components. Your magnesium wheels excepted - they will be lighter than my ally ones. I suspect you will be happy with the result when it is assembled without needing the expense of Carillo's.
I reckon you would be far better off saving the coin to put towards some flat slide carbs. Better bang for your buck there I reckon.
My brain tells me that the entire reciprocating assembly will work together in terms of acceleration. I think that if you wanted to save a few grams (perhaps ounces for you?) then it would be easier to just lighten the flywheel a bit more. Much simpler and cheaper for the same result I think.
Having said that, your assembly will be close to mine in terms of its weight, given our similar light weight components. Your magnesium wheels excepted - they will be lighter than my ally ones. I suspect you will be happy with the result when it is assembled without needing the expense of Carillo's.
I reckon you would be far better off saving the coin to put towards some flat slide carbs. Better bang for your buck there I reckon.
#16
Nothing wrong with the stock rods for your purposes, so weight would be the only reason to swap them I think.
My brain tells me that the entire reciprocating assembly will work together in terms of acceleration. I think that if you wanted to save a few grams (perhaps ounces for you?) then it would be easier to just lighten the flywheel a bit more. Much simpler and cheaper for the same result I think.
Having said that, your assembly will be close to mine in terms of its weight, given our similar light weight components. Your magnesium wheels excepted - they will be lighter than my ally ones. I suspect you will be happy with the result when it is assembled without needing the expense of Carillo's.
I reckon you would be far better off saving the coin to put towards some flat slide carbs. Better bang for your buck there I reckon.
My brain tells me that the entire reciprocating assembly will work together in terms of acceleration. I think that if you wanted to save a few grams (perhaps ounces for you?) then it would be easier to just lighten the flywheel a bit more. Much simpler and cheaper for the same result I think.
Having said that, your assembly will be close to mine in terms of its weight, given our similar light weight components. Your magnesium wheels excepted - they will be lighter than my ally ones. I suspect you will be happy with the result when it is assembled without needing the expense of Carillo's.
I reckon you would be far better off saving the coin to put towards some flat slide carbs. Better bang for your buck there I reckon.
#18
Stock rods are fine form a strength standpoint.
Carillos are just a lot lighter and you take a corresponding weight off the crank as well.
But it's true, it is a bit pricy (~$650) and you should be able to get close to the same result taking more off the flywheel. But the smaller the flywheel gets, the smaller the change in inertia becomes.
Carillos are just a lot lighter and you take a corresponding weight off the crank as well.
But it's true, it is a bit pricy (~$650) and you should be able to get close to the same result taking more off the flywheel. But the smaller the flywheel gets, the smaller the change in inertia becomes.
#19
Not having unlimited funds (I was quoted $600 US for the Carillos; add in shipping plus the US-CAN $ exchange rate and it gets expensive pretty quickly), I think I will opt for stock rods and get the crank balanced. Besides, I will be running aluminum clutch plates in addition to all my other lightweight goodies (machined rear rotor, 520 chain and aluminum rear sprocket, magnesium wheels, lightened flywheel) so it should be ok (runs great now, can`t wait to see how it`ll go with the pistons, Akra and velocity stacks!!!)
#25
indeed it is (and I would LOVE one just like it). However, my VTR is street-legal, more comfortable and practical and for me, those matter more Besides, if all I cared about was speed, I would buy an I4 (take your pick: ZX-14, Busa, R1, BMW 1300,...) and be done with it. Rest assured, however, that once my bike is all put together, there will be few bikes able to stay with it in a roll-on between 60-100 mph or out of tight corners... he he
Last edited by mikstr; 06-10-2009 at 06:15 AM.
#26
#27
indeed it is (and I would LOVE one just like it). However, my VTR is street-legal, more comfortable and practical and for me, those matter more Besides, if all I cared about was speed, I would buy an I4 (take your pick: ZX-14, Busa, R1, BMW 1300,...) and be done with it. Rest assured, however, that once my bike is all put together, there will be few bikes able to stay with it in a roll-on between 60-100 mph or out of tight corners... he he
There are lots of faster bikes than the RC. but it's the perfect track bike for me.
#29
I was just starting to realize how great it is.
I've been doing a lot of thinking about mental preparedness. I was in such a rush to get the thing running and hurried every minute until I was on the track, riding a motorcycle for the first time in 3 years.
I used to be rpogrammed to be ready to pull in the clutch if the engine suddenly went BANG. But I had not taken the time to mentally prepare, and suddenly found myself going really fast on a very enthusiastic machine. When it was suddenly pulling me toward the edge of the track, I reacted the wrong way.
Note to self: Be prepared, next time and every time!
I've been doing a lot of thinking about mental preparedness. I was in such a rush to get the thing running and hurried every minute until I was on the track, riding a motorcycle for the first time in 3 years.
I used to be rpogrammed to be ready to pull in the clutch if the engine suddenly went BANG. But I had not taken the time to mentally prepare, and suddenly found myself going really fast on a very enthusiastic machine. When it was suddenly pulling me toward the edge of the track, I reacted the wrong way.
Note to self: Be prepared, next time and every time!
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