Hi, i have just read some threads about carb shim mod and how great it is.
But in all threads it is said that this mod is great for STOCK bikes.
My VTR has aftermarket carbon cans and BMC air filter(+ bigger fuel pump, so i was said not sure it is true), is this mod good for my bike or i have to search for a jet kit?

I checked the Dynojet kits and with them you have to drill the carb slides, not so sure i wanna do that. They also sugges 190/195 jetting for
high-flow baffles and K&N(BMC in my case).

What if i put 190/195 jets and shim the needles....will this work?


The porblem is that i am broke now and have no money for a decent Jet kit like FP or Ivans(nmot sure they got one for VTR).

 

Yes, this mod will definitely work for your setup.

I haven't tried the BMC, but if it is a BMC street filter it flows much more evenly and more restricted than the K&N from what I've read. The BMC race filter is more equivalent to the K&N.

Personally, I would start with shimming the needles and blocking one of the slide holes in the front slide as per 8541Hawk's setup. It's cheap as free

BTW aftermarket cans don't change performance that much other than weight... it's not like you're going from a stock Harley to open pipes or anything

 

i would not go by dynojets recommendations. i did and it ended up being so rich it was unridable.

 

The bike has no fuel pump, so that's wrong.. And for the VTR Factory Pro jet kits are easier to install than DynoJets and usually give better results. Though just tuning re: 8541Hawk's how to is likely to do you well.

 

Also with just slip-ons and possibly an air filter the engine would still be considered stock.

No I have not used a BMC filter though i do know they make 2 different types a "race" and a "street" version. If you must use one I would recommend the street version but I use the stock OEM filter myself.

One last thing DynoJet jets do flow at a different rate than the Keihin jets, so unless you are using their jets and needles you really can't go by their recommendations.

 

So i better do the shim mod?

And what is
"blocking one of the slide holes in the front slide as per 8541Hawk's setup"
i have an idea, but i could not find a thread in the forum...will you please post an link(i used the search, no result)

And final question - after shimming and blocking, will i still have to change the jetting?

P.S. are you sure about the fuel pump?
I got something that i believe is a fuel pump just under the seat, left side when on the bike.

 

you might be looking at the ignition coil or being from Europe, you might have the SP1 witch is fuel injected and does have a fuel pump...i dont know where it mounted tho...so if your bike looks something like the pic below then you are right. But most of us on this forum ride the U.S. version of the Fire Storm. but because your talking about your carbs its probably just the coil your looking at.

 

Oh, i wish my bike was a SP1, but it is just a Firestorm with CBR929 front fairing and GSXR750 USD front end

Yes i am in Europe, but i am 100% sure this is not a coil. I know how a coil looks like and this is not one, more over it has a fuel line connected to it

and it looks like this one


the bike is not around so i can`t take a picture to show you

 

If you have a fuel pump, it's most definitely not stock.

This is the thread that has worked very well for a lot of us here:

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-set-up-24769/

 

yep, i have just read it to the end

so if i am gtting it right i must
-block one hole from the friont slide
-shim the niddles - 0.6 per niddle
-may be put 48 pilots

 

Well close....

Block 1 hole in the front slide, correct

Add (I'll use metric here to try and make it easier for you) 1mm (usually 2 .5mm washers) or around .040" worth of shims. I have heard of different thicknesses of factory shims, so I have changed the instructions some and it's not just leave the stock one in place on the rear carb. Now it is better to measure the thickness of the stock shims before starting.

The tricky part is you want the rear raised .5mm higher than the front. This can be done by removing the stock shim from the front and leaving it in place in the rear or by removing them all and making your own stack of 1mm front and 1.5mm rear.

This is just a starting point as some bikes run better with just .5mm\1mm combination while others might like a 1mm\1.5mm set up and others run 1.5mm\2mm final configuration. The key is the rear is raised .5mm higher than the front.

I just get you started in the middle and you must fine tune to your engines need from there.

Hope this clears things up for you.

 

not to beat a dead horse but does that pump look like this?

 

i know you just posted a pic but im having a hard time with the fuel pump on a firestorm...unless it has some kinda SRAD (Suzuki Ram Air Direct ) mod

 

as i find out from this and another bike forum - the firestorm does not have a fuel pump
i think mine is installed afterwards, but do not know for what reason
may be the tank fuel petcock failed and they put a pump to bypass it
one or two of the pedcock lines were blocked
and my fuel level sender does not work either

 

Man,

Every Superhawk must run different-

I am using a dynojet kit factory installed with 180/185 mains, stock pilots, 3 holes in both slides, and needles between the 4th and 5th notch using small washers.
Both cylinders are equal.
Yoshimura slip-ons...stock filter.
Sea level 60 degree air.

My bike runs perfect and pulls REALLY hard....from 2k rpm up to redline.

I see posts that this is always too rich...Not with mine.

Note: Clip #4 was Dynojets recommended setting. It ran a tad lean.