Apex 4" bars... Install, compare.
07-19-2012 | 07:09 AM
#1
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From: Kempner, TX
Apex 4" bars... Install, compare.
My APEX 4" Riser bars arrived just 5 working days order to door.
Packaged well, no scratches or dings in shipment.
Bottom to top..
OEM 1998 VTR1000 Bars
VFR800 Bars
4" apex bars.
Off to work i go, but tonight, they go on the bike.
Packaged well, no scratches or dings in shipment.
Bottom to top..
OEM 1998 VTR1000 Bars
VFR800 Bars
4" apex bars.
Off to work i go, but tonight, they go on the bike.
07-19-2012 | 09:56 AM
#2
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They are on my list of things I still need as the Swatt units I have will not let me mount up my radial master cylinder, besides a few other "issues" with them.
So I am interested in seeing how they work for you.
So I am interested in seeing how they work for you.
07-19-2012 | 09:58 AM
#3
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Of interest, having never laid these clip ons next to each other and compared.. I just noticed in the above picture, the big difference in bar downward angle, between the OEM clip on and the VFR800
07-19-2012 | 01:07 PM
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can U post some pics though how they interface may vary significantly with the 900 versus VTR OE forks. Did U trim the fairing 'ears" and have to run longer brake, throttle & clutch cables/hoses. I have the 41mm Tommaselli's which I like but wish were reward about 3/8~1/2" but are high enough, angled well & wider. I did run a longer clutch hose & throttle cables but my Russell brake hoses worked OK. See pics (Note: Since photo 4 I've lowered the tubes back down to about 6mm higher than OE height as my Penske ride height is up 1/2' effective from stock).
07-19-2012 | 04:45 PM
#7
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Hey guys, I have the set of Apex with three inch risers and I think they are the shiz-nit. However, (big pause), I did have to trim the ears off of the fairing. I also put in 3/8" plexiglass spacers under my mirror mounts, which then of course I have to modify my mirror mounts by adding coupling nuts ground down to fit in the fairing holes, and then added 6mm bolts with the head cut off so I had threads to attach the mirrors to.
Also, added longer brake lines, (went with HEL braided carbon color), I think 2" and 2&1/2" longer for both lines.
Also had to slip the clutch line out of it's holder (I have a new braided line to go in but have not gotten to it), in order for it to be long enough and route the throttle cables outside the fork leg, instead of inside like stock.
The Apex bars are adjustable in just about every way you could imagine, up,down, forward, back, by virtue of their design.
So, not exactly plug and play, but oh are they comfortable, for me at least.
I can also post pics if you are interested.
Also, added longer brake lines, (went with HEL braided carbon color), I think 2" and 2&1/2" longer for both lines.
Also had to slip the clutch line out of it's holder (I have a new braided line to go in but have not gotten to it), in order for it to be long enough and route the throttle cables outside the fork leg, instead of inside like stock.
The Apex bars are adjustable in just about every way you could imagine, up,down, forward, back, by virtue of their design.
So, not exactly plug and play, but oh are they comfortable, for me at least.
I can also post pics if you are interested.
07-19-2012 | 06:02 PM
#8
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I trimmed the faring for my VFR bar install.. so hoping I don't have to trim more for the APEX install... Got side tracked and have been working on my DRZ485 SuporMoto.. But will get to the VTR tonight as well...
And heck ya, post pics please...
And heck ya, post pics please...
07-19-2012 | 08:51 PM
#9
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Well, it's going to be a bigger project then i planned for tonight.
To take advantage of the 4 inch rise (or even the 3") the fairing is going to have to be trimmed a bunch more.
Likely I'll cut several inches off the trail edge of the fairing / wind screen. Then re drill a new hole and re position the last fairing wind screen fastener.
And the bars them self's are very long, some 2.5 inches longer then OEM or VFR.. so once I get the position right, I'll trim over all length as well.
Using blue painters tape I played around with different cut lines, but did not find one that made me happy.. so tabled the task for the night. I'l sleep on it and take a fresh look in the morning.
The Apex bars are SOOOOOO adjustable,,,it's almost overwhelming.
Had to just configure them in a like position to the VFR bars, and move them from there... In the end though,,it's clear if i want any positioning from these that I can not get from the VFR bars.
To take advantage of the 4 inch rise (or even the 3") the fairing is going to have to be trimmed a bunch more.
Likely I'll cut several inches off the trail edge of the fairing / wind screen. Then re drill a new hole and re position the last fairing wind screen fastener.
And the bars them self's are very long, some 2.5 inches longer then OEM or VFR.. so once I get the position right, I'll trim over all length as well.
Using blue painters tape I played around with different cut lines, but did not find one that made me happy.. so tabled the task for the night. I'l sleep on it and take a fresh look in the morning.
The Apex bars are SOOOOOO adjustable,,,it's almost overwhelming.
Had to just configure them in a like position to the VFR bars, and move them from there... In the end though,,it's clear if i want any positioning from these that I can not get from the VFR bars.
Last edited by E.Marquez; 07-19-2012 at 08:58 PM.
07-19-2012 | 11:28 PM
#10
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Marquez,
I will post pics tomorrow, I could not have done this install w/o spacers under the mirror, in addition to the fairing trim, but you might be able to come up with something better than I. I took a couple more pics tonight so will try and upload tomorrow. Still worth the effort for me. Later...
I will post pics tomorrow, I could not have done this install w/o spacers under the mirror, in addition to the fairing trim, but you might be able to come up with something better than I. I took a couple more pics tonight so will try and upload tomorrow. Still worth the effort for me. Later...
07-20-2012 | 07:50 AM
#11
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The trailing edge of tape (reward) is about where I will need to trim to get full use of the APEX bars... The black dot is where I will relocate the windscreen mounting screw.
I'll have to trim both fairing and wind screen to make this work....... Now what is that saying, measure once cut twice...?? No wait..Measure, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,
07-20-2012 | 09:32 AM
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When I did the VFR bars, I trimmed the lower section like you did, just not as far up..
For this install I considered trimming the "ear" UP all the way to the wind screen and leaving full length like you did..Basically leaving just a thin strip of fairing.. If I do that I will add some strength to the back side by way of a stainless steel backing plate.. Screwed in place or bonded with epoxy.
And may still go that route… but I think I can trim forward the fairing and wind screen in such a way that allows full turn of the bars, and does not leave a very fragile section of fairing..
For this install I considered trimming the "ear" UP all the way to the wind screen and leaving full length like you did..Basically leaving just a thin strip of fairing.. If I do that I will add some strength to the back side by way of a stainless steel backing plate.. Screwed in place or bonded with epoxy.
And may still go that route… but I think I can trim forward the fairing and wind screen in such a way that allows full turn of the bars, and does not leave a very fragile section of fairing..
Last edited by E.Marquez; 07-20-2012 at 09:34 AM.
07-20-2012 | 10:53 AM
#18
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From: Snohomish, WA.
Yes it would be nice not to have to remove so much of your fairing and windscreen.
Here is a shot of the final mirror mount shim and the installed Apex bars. It takes some adjusting to get the clearance just right but that is what I like about these bars is that they give you that option of adjustment positions.
Here is a shot of the final mirror mount shim and the installed Apex bars. It takes some adjusting to get the clearance just right but that is what I like about these bars is that they give you that option of adjustment positions.
07-20-2012 | 12:08 PM
#19
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OK now I get it... your mirror mount extenders are really fairing spacers.. ie, you used them to push out the fairing.... Most times folks talk about mirror extenders it’s about moving the mirror out for better visibility.. looks like you did it for fairing clearance.
07-20-2012 | 07:12 PM
#20
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The hardest part................... seeing this on the shop floor
Pretty happy with the fairing lines
But need to do some sanding and smooth the lines a bit...
Then make a template and do the other side.
Upland... how much did you cut off the end of the bars?
Pretty happy with the fairing lines
But need to do some sanding and smooth the lines a bit...
Then make a template and do the other side.
Upland... how much did you cut off the end of the bars?
07-21-2012 | 12:23 AM
#22
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I believe I cut approximately 1 & 3/8" off the end of the bars. The Apex bars are fairly long from the factory, as you know. Still plenty long to mount all the necessary equipment. I mocked up all my controls before cutting.
Probably could have gone shorter, but if you look inside the bars, the ID of the aluminum is thicker about 2" in from the end of the bars. I had to dremel out the inside some in order to fit bar ends with the expanding rubber.
I had stock bars then Heli bars, and now these bars. I think the Apex bars after being cut ended up around 5/8 to 7/8" longer than the stock clip ons. I just can't remember exactly. Nice job on the fairing, and yea taking the dremel to mine was an exercize in concentration for sure.
Probably could have gone shorter, but if you look inside the bars, the ID of the aluminum is thicker about 2" in from the end of the bars. I had to dremel out the inside some in order to fit bar ends with the expanding rubber.
I had stock bars then Heli bars, and now these bars. I think the Apex bars after being cut ended up around 5/8 to 7/8" longer than the stock clip ons. I just can't remember exactly. Nice job on the fairing, and yea taking the dremel to mine was an exercize in concentration for sure.
07-21-2012 | 05:59 AM
#23
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Looking for some steel now to cut a backing plate from... with so much materiel gone from the "ear" of the fairing, it will only take a snag of a riding jacket or misplaced hand grab to snap that part of the fairing off.
EDIT... hummm,,,,, or maybe..... I build a cross brace tied to the rest of the mount by the mirror...
Last edited by E.Marquez; 07-21-2012 at 06:00 AM. Reason: More thoughts..... thoughts are dangerous
07-21-2012 | 10:46 AM
#24
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Cut the bars to length
Found the ID of the bar tube is reduced 2" from the end.... So will need so new bar end weights and set up the boring bar to make the tube end fit a bar end.
All done, clutch line re routed, bleed, bars locked down, controls back on.
Fairing edge touched up with Italian red touch up paint. Bike will get a compleat paint job soon, till then, no one will notice but me.. unless they get close.
Test ride in 3....2....1.... NOW.
See Ya
Found the ID of the bar tube is reduced 2" from the end.... So will need so new bar end weights and set up the boring bar to make the tube end fit a bar end.
All done, clutch line re routed, bleed, bars locked down, controls back on.
Fairing edge touched up with Italian red touch up paint. Bike will get a compleat paint job soon, till then, no one will notice but me.. unless they get close.
Test ride in 3....2....1.... NOW.
See Ya
07-21-2012 | 09:43 PM
#25
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From: Snohomish, WA.
Marquez,
Did you have to shim the fairing out like I did with spacers? It looks like you used most of the rise available with your 4" bars, I have the 3" and doubt I could get any more than that or interferance problems would result.
How do you like the current angle? From your pic they look much straighter than mine currently are. I have mine angled down at the ends, and I just haven't tried other positions, but I imagine every fit is personal to suit.
I have some universal aluminum bar ends and do not reccomend them. They only weigh 2.5 ozs each, and anthough I like the clean look, I do notice more vibrations. Stock are about 5 ozs, but with these lighter bars I am thinking about going with even more. If you find some clean black heavy bar ends that you like, appreciate you letting me know. I found you can pay a lot just for bar ends, which might be worth it long run.
Did you have to shim the fairing out like I did with spacers? It looks like you used most of the rise available with your 4" bars, I have the 3" and doubt I could get any more than that or interferance problems would result.
How do you like the current angle? From your pic they look much straighter than mine currently are. I have mine angled down at the ends, and I just haven't tried other positions, but I imagine every fit is personal to suit.
I have some universal aluminum bar ends and do not reccomend them. They only weigh 2.5 ozs each, and anthough I like the clean look, I do notice more vibrations. Stock are about 5 ozs, but with these lighter bars I am thinking about going with even more. If you find some clean black heavy bar ends that you like, appreciate you letting me know. I found you can pay a lot just for bar ends, which might be worth it long run.
07-22-2012 | 11:41 AM
#26
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Marquez,
Did you have to shim the fairing out like I did with spacers? It looks like you used most of the rise available with your 4" bars, I have the 3" and doubt I could get any more than that or interferance problems would result.
How do you like the current angle? From your pic they look much straighter than mine currently are. I have mine angled down at the ends, and I just haven't tried other positions, but I imagine every fit is personal to suit.
I have some universal aluminum bar ends and do not reccomend them. They only weigh 2.5 ozs each, and anthough I like the clean look, I do notice more vibrations. Stock are about 5 ozs, but with these lighter bars I am thinking about going with even more. If you find some clean black heavy bar ends that you like, appreciate you letting me know. I found you can pay a lot just for bar ends, which might be worth it long run.
Did you have to shim the fairing out like I did with spacers? It looks like you used most of the rise available with your 4" bars, I have the 3" and doubt I could get any more than that or interferance problems would result.
How do you like the current angle? From your pic they look much straighter than mine currently are. I have mine angled down at the ends, and I just haven't tried other positions, but I imagine every fit is personal to suit.
I have some universal aluminum bar ends and do not reccomend them. They only weigh 2.5 ozs each, and anthough I like the clean look, I do notice more vibrations. Stock are about 5 ozs, but with these lighter bars I am thinking about going with even more. If you find some clean black heavy bar ends that you like, appreciate you letting me know. I found you can pay a lot just for bar ends, which might be worth it long run.
Yes I have the full 4" rise set on mine at this point. The bars are rotated in the mount so they are parallel to the ground. So far I like the positioning,, well give it a few rides and try something else.
For end weights, I made some split tube wedges last night for retention.. looking for materiel now to make end weights from.. Thinking Stainless Steel or, have consider filling the tube first with lead shot, then adding a bar end.
Could always make bar end from tungsten for 50% weight gain in the same size bar end.. :LOL:
1" x 1.5" hunk is $26 and weights roughly 1.15 lb
07-22-2012 | 09:52 PM
#27
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From: Snohomish, WA.
Could always make bar end from tungsten for 50% weight gain in the same size bar end.. :LOL:
1" x 1.5" hunk is $26 and weights roughly 1.15 lb
1" x 1.5" hunk is $26 and weights roughly 1.15 lb
I agree with your stainless approach. It seems like a logical solution, and it looks like you have access to the right tools!
I was thinking about Brass too. A big heavier than stainless. But, may have to be painted if you don't like the look. I might look around locally and see what options are there.
Metals and Alloys - Densities
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