Another suspension swap
02-21-2010 | 09:17 PM
#31
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02-21-2010 | 09:22 PM
#32
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Coming together very nicely 
+1 I agree mikster, hey Mike, would you mind if I piggyback my swap in your thread?
Seeing as I'm doing pretty much the same mod, just a day or two behind you, I figure a second Rc51 fork swap thread would just be redundant. I wont jack yer thread just post my progress as well, whatcha think?
Dave
+1 I agree mikster, hey Mike, would you mind if I piggyback my swap in your thread?
Seeing as I'm doing pretty much the same mod, just a day or two behind you, I figure a second Rc51 fork swap thread would just be redundant. I wont jack yer thread just post my progress as well, whatcha think?
Dave
I have learned a couple of things so far. My ride height issue has been taken care of due to the fact I am using a 954 lower triple. With the Sp2 forks you can't pull them down to "stock" height unless you use a Gullwing lower clamp. By my quick check it looks like you end up with around the same as the forks pulled up around 5mm on the stock set up.
Also stay the hell away from Swatt. Not only is their customer service worse than ***** now their parts are damn crappy also but see my next post for that story.
02-21-2010 | 09:25 PM
#33
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Well progress today was kind of slow because the clip ons I picked up are major POS.
I can deal with the fact that one wasn't deburred before it was anodized but that was the easy part to fix. What caused problems is that they use the same clamp for both left and right sides and you flip one clamp over so you can get to the bolts to clamp it down. While this system would work fine, the fact that the bolt holes in the clamp are off center by .047" so you end up with a height difference of .094" so it took a bit of figuring to get things lined up.
Just need a few more bits to show up and the "office" will be done.....
Then it will be time to get the rear dialed in..
I can deal with the fact that one wasn't deburred before it was anodized but that was the easy part to fix. What caused problems is that they use the same clamp for both left and right sides and you flip one clamp over so you can get to the bolts to clamp it down. While this system would work fine, the fact that the bolt holes in the clamp are off center by .047" so you end up with a height difference of .094" so it took a bit of figuring to get things lined up.
Just need a few more bits to show up and the "office" will be done.....
Then it will be time to get the rear dialed in..
02-22-2010 | 10:33 AM
#36
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I got Sp1 forks, and before I pulled the stockers, I used Lazn and yruyru's method of measuring from the center of the front axle to the bottom of the bearing cup. When I mocked up the 929 tree's, that put the legs so that the very top of the lower clamp area was dead even with the top of lower clamp, which put the top of the legs about 1.625" above the top clamp, more than enough for clip on's, I did try the 929 clip on's but don't like the position, so.. superbike setup next.
I also have the Rc51 tree's that came with the forks, and I'm going to mock them up too, a quick check reveals that they will clear the radiators and still have full engagement on the lower clamp area on the fork legs, just have to weld on new stops in the proper spot. Then on to the wheel setup...
I also have the Rc51 tree's that came with the forks, and I'm going to mock them up too, a quick check reveals that they will clear the radiators and still have full engagement on the lower clamp area on the fork legs, just have to weld on new stops in the proper spot. Then on to the wheel setup...
02-22-2010 | 10:50 AM
#37
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I got Sp1 forks, and before I pulled the stockers, I used Lazn and yruyru's method of measuring from the center of the front axle to the bottom of the bearing cup. When I mocked up the 929 tree's, that put the legs so that the very top of the lower clamp area was dead even with the top of lower clamp, which put the top of the legs about 1.625" above the top clamp, more than enough for clip on's, I did try the 929 clip on's but don't like the position, so.. superbike setup next.
I also have the Rc51 tree's that came with the forks, and I'm going to mock them up too, a quick check reveals that they will clear the radiators and still have full engagement on the lower clamp area on the fork legs, just have to weld on new stops in the proper spot. Then on to the wheel setup...
I also have the Rc51 tree's that came with the forks, and I'm going to mock them up too, a quick check reveals that they will clear the radiators and still have full engagement on the lower clamp area on the fork legs, just have to weld on new stops in the proper spot. Then on to the wheel setup...
02-22-2010 | 11:06 AM
#39
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I think you could use the 929 lower and SP1 upper if you are just going for a non gullwinged upper. But I am just relying on my own faulty memory for that info, so you'd have to test it out.
02-22-2010 | 01:02 PM
#40
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02-22-2010 | 01:28 PM
#41
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Adjusting the steering stops and moving the rads are the same regardless of what triple you choose... Both will hit the rad hose and both will need adjustment on the stops... The difference is the lower SP1 hits the fairings
I'm unsure if you can combine the upper from an SP1 with the lower 929/954... That changes the lenght between the two clamping points on the forklegs... At least on my 1000RR legs that won't work as they are narrower on the places they aren't supposed to be clamped... But it may be possible... 8541Hawk seems to manage on the SP2 forks... could be the same on SP1, but not sure...
I'm unsure if you can combine the upper from an SP1 with the lower 929/954... That changes the lenght between the two clamping points on the forklegs... At least on my 1000RR legs that won't work as they are narrower on the places they aren't supposed to be clamped... But it may be possible... 8541Hawk seems to manage on the SP2 forks... could be the same on SP1, but not sure...
02-22-2010 | 03:07 PM
#42
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SP1 forks should be fine. Here are a couple photos of the external differences between SP1 and SP2 forks. The SP2 forks have a longer section at a smaller diameter on the stanchions and even a further reduction below the top clamp. SP2 also has a beefier brake mount.
On a side note, I did a side-by side comparison between an SP2 fork with a shortened - by 50% - topout spring and an SP1 fork. Both forks have Racetech .95kg/mm springs.
The SP2 ends up 10 mm longer and has 5mm more travel, but otherwise identical for most purposes. The SP1 holds a bit more oil, due to a shorter damper cartridge, but that's about it. The only other differences I can find are a different rebound damper needle profile and different preload adjuster.
Damping valves are identical.
SP2 fork on top, SP1 on bottom:
On a side note, I did a side-by side comparison between an SP2 fork with a shortened - by 50% - topout spring and an SP1 fork. Both forks have Racetech .95kg/mm springs.
The SP2 ends up 10 mm longer and has 5mm more travel, but otherwise identical for most purposes. The SP1 holds a bit more oil, due to a shorter damper cartridge, but that's about it. The only other differences I can find are a different rebound damper needle profile and different preload adjuster.
Damping valves are identical.
SP2 fork on top, SP1 on bottom:
Last edited by RCVTR; 02-22-2010 at 03:22 PM.
02-22-2010 | 07:21 PM
#43
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SP1 forks should be fine. Here are a couple photos of the external differences between SP1 and SP2 forks. The SP2 forks have a longer section at a smaller diameter on the stanchions and even a further reduction below the top clamp. SP2 also has a beefier brake mount.
On a side note, I did a side-by side comparison between an SP2 fork with a shortened - by 50% - topout spring and an SP1 fork. Both forks have Racetech .95kg/mm springs.
The SP2 ends up 10 mm longer and has 5mm more travel, but otherwise identical for most purposes. The SP1 holds a bit more oil, due to a shorter damper cartridge, but that's about it. The only other differences I can find are a different rebound damper needle profile and different preload adjuster.
Damping valves are identical.
SP2 fork on top, SP1 on bottom:
On a side note, I did a side-by side comparison between an SP2 fork with a shortened - by 50% - topout spring and an SP1 fork. Both forks have Racetech .95kg/mm springs.
The SP2 ends up 10 mm longer and has 5mm more travel, but otherwise identical for most purposes. The SP1 holds a bit more oil, due to a shorter damper cartridge, but that's about it. The only other differences I can find are a different rebound damper needle profile and different preload adjuster.
Damping valves are identical.
SP2 fork on top, SP1 on bottom:
02-22-2010 | 07:29 PM
#44
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02-22-2010 | 08:19 PM
#45
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On the oil, when I was at Dan Kyles shop to pick up my new springs I tried to buy some of that "special" oil and he told me not to bother. These spec forks work just fine with Honda 5w. So you can run whichever you like but I thought I would pass on the info.
02-25-2010 | 04:31 PM
#48
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Well still on parts hold so I can finish the rear set up but the front is basically done as I finished the brakes system today. The it was the first trip outside to clean the rest of the road grime and gunk
Oh and I had to fix a dumbass mistake I made a while back.... it would appear that "someone" forgot to put on the anti-seize before they put in their timing inspection covers...... don't let this happen to you....
Oh and I had to fix a dumbass mistake I made a while back.... it would appear that "someone" forgot to put on the anti-seize before they put in their timing inspection covers...... don't let this happen to you....
02-26-2010 | 08:24 PM
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Well to day was one of those days when I should have just left well enough alone, but noooo I was bored. So things started out well, decide to check the valve clearance. Nothing was really out of spec but as I was already in there a couple of valves were on the tight side of spec so might as well adjust them......
No real problems until it was time for the last cam bolt........yep right down the motor.... so time for exploring....... well I guess it's a good excuse to put in an advancer while I'm in there maybe a shift star.....not sure yet....
If than wasn't bad enough, when I went to install the front valve cover one of the bolts sheared off. Of course it is a good .200 below the surface of the head and as it's the front cover I have to pull the forks to get a drill in there to easy out the damn thing.......
That's when I went inside.....
No real problems until it was time for the last cam bolt........yep right down the motor.... so time for exploring....... well I guess it's a good excuse to put in an advancer while I'm in there maybe a shift star.....not sure yet....
If than wasn't bad enough, when I went to install the front valve cover one of the bolts sheared off. Of course it is a good .200 below the surface of the head and as it's the front cover I have to pull the forks to get a drill in there to easy out the damn thing.......
That's when I went inside.....
02-27-2010 | 08:44 AM
#50
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Dude! I was just gettin antsy to go out and pull/clean my carbs, slap in original size jets as I found mine were oversized for some reason by PO when I cleaned 'em last year, check valve clearances, drill out the the valve cover where I sheared off one of the pair valve cover bolts, hmmm.. maybe it's a sign, seeing as I'm like one step behind you on all this umm healthy activity, think I'll concentrate on my front wheel set-up instead, turned out a couple of bushings for the front wheel bearings in the CBR1000rr front wheel yesterday, to proceed with mock up while waiting for the new wheel bearings, the Rc51 bearings will fit right into the 1000rr wheel.
Yeah sounds good yeah....
Yeah sounds good yeah....
02-27-2010 | 06:32 PM
#51
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Thinking of using the superbike mod as a choice for bars, I was looking over the chart for the protapers, and think I might try one of the ATV bends, possibly the ATV Mid with the 5.9" height with 3" of pullback, or might even try one of the mini sets as the center section is narrower than the full size bars, but, I can still get a bar thats a full 28-3/4" wide, which would be cool as it seems like other people have had to cut the full size bars down. Any thoughts or suggestions? Throw 'em out there fella's.
02-28-2010 | 04:47 PM
#53
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Ok, small speed bump here, may not be an issue but I still need to ask. Mocked up the front wheel, nice and centered, right caliper is dead nuts centered on the rotor, the left one isn't, if using center line of the caliper as a guide, it's nearly fully aligned
to the inside of the rotor. I removed the caliper mount and just set the caliper on the rotor and pumped 'em up, it still aligns the same way. So.. The question is, does it really have to be centered or not.
to the inside of the rotor. I removed the caliper mount and just set the caliper on the rotor and pumped 'em up, it still aligns the same way. So.. The question is, does it really have to be centered or not.
02-28-2010 | 05:04 PM
#54
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Ok, small speed bump here, may not be an issue but I still need to ask. Mocked up the front wheel, nice and centered, right caliper is dead nuts centered on the rotor, the left one isn't, if using center line of the caliper as a guide, it's nearly fully aligned
to the inside of the rotor. I removed the caliper mount and just set the caliper on the rotor and pumped 'em up, it still aligns the same way. So.. The question is, does it really have to be centered or not.
to the inside of the rotor. I removed the caliper mount and just set the caliper on the rotor and pumped 'em up, it still aligns the same way. So.. The question is, does it really have to be centered or not.
Sounds like we ran into the same problem. With the wheel in place the caliper on the left was almost touching the outside edge of the rotor, while the right side was perfect. I ended up spacing the mounting bracket that mounts to the forks around .040" out with a couple of shims to get the caliper centered on the rotor. Of course i did all this before I mounted the pads to make things a bit easier to measure.
Last edited by 8541Hawk; 02-28-2010 at 08:27 PM.
02-28-2010 | 05:14 PM
#55
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Well when thing go bad, they go really bad......
After trying every trick I know I was left with no option but to take more stuff apart. All in all things look pretty good for a motor with close to 80k miles on it running Ca regular the entire time.
After trying every trick I know I was left with no option but to take more stuff apart. All in all things look pretty good for a motor with close to 80k miles on it running Ca regular the entire time.
02-28-2010 | 05:47 PM
#57
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bummer. if you are in there definitely do the shift star mod if you can get one. it makes a huge difference in just the slickness of shifting. I know these already shift OK, but its just super slick after.
Well to day was one of those days when I should have just left well enough alone, but noooo I was bored. So things started out well, decide to check the valve clearance. Nothing was really out of spec but as I was already in there a couple of valves were on the tight side of spec so might as well adjust them......
Attachment 8390
Attachment 8391
Attachment 8392
Attachment 8393
No real problems until it was time for the last cam bolt........yep right down the motor.... so time for exploring....... well I guess it's a good excuse to put in an advancer while I'm in there maybe a shift star.....not sure yet....
Attachment 8394
If than wasn't bad enough, when I went to install the front valve cover one of the bolts sheared off. Of course it is a good .200 below the surface of the head and as it's the front cover I have to pull the forks to get a drill in there to easy out the damn thing.......
That's when I went inside.....
Attachment 8390
Attachment 8391
Attachment 8392
Attachment 8393
No real problems until it was time for the last cam bolt........yep right down the motor.... so time for exploring....... well I guess it's a good excuse to put in an advancer while I'm in there maybe a shift star.....not sure yet....
Attachment 8394
If than wasn't bad enough, when I went to install the front valve cover one of the bolts sheared off. Of course it is a good .200 below the surface of the head and as it's the front cover I have to pull the forks to get a drill in there to easy out the damn thing.......
That's when I went inside.....
02-28-2010 | 07:37 PM
#58
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02-28-2010 | 08:00 PM
#59
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Sounds like we ran into the same problem. With the wheel in place the caliper on the left was almost touching the outside edge of the rotor, while the left side was perfect. I ended up spacing the mounting bracket the mounts to the forks around .040" out with a couple of shims to get the caliper centered on the rotor. Of course i did all this before I mounted the pads to make things a bit easier to measure.
Yeah, just in the opposite direction, since I posted I've been searching, but not much to be found. I just thought it odd that even independant of the mounting bracket, ( I removed it entirely), pumping it up still did not center the caliper on the rotor.
Some of what I found centered around making sure the pistons are clean, so, I'll grab some 1/8" stock, pump the pistons out and clean 'em real good. Then give it another go.
02-28-2010 | 08:29 PM
#60
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Yeah, just in the opposite direction, since I posted I've been searching, but not much to be found. I just thought it odd that even independant of the mounting bracket, ( I removed it entirely), pumping it up still did not center the caliper on the rotor.
Some of what I found centered around making sure the pistons are clean, so, I'll grab some 1/8" stock, pump the pistons out and clean 'em real good. Then give it another go.
Some of what I found centered around making sure the pistons are clean, so, I'll grab some 1/8" stock, pump the pistons out and clean 'em real good. Then give it another go.
To center the caliper you can add a shim between the caliper and the mounting bracket.
