Another: How to put F4i forks on a hawk
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 154
From: san luis obispo, ca 93405
Another: How to put F4i forks on a hawk
Well after reading superblings thread on f4i forks on a superhawk i decide to give it a shot.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ead.php?t=1892
So i tore into the hawk hoping for an easy swap, not as easy as I hoped
The madatory parts list :
f4i forks
f4i upper and lower triple
f4i front fender
f4i clip ons or maybe heli bars or superbike bars
I also used f4i front calipers but they are almost identical to superhawk calipers, I actually ran Sh calipers for the first ride, so f4i and sh calipers are interchangeable
But the lines are different, using sh calipers and lines with f4i forks is not ideal, the single line from the mc is to short and is tight, and the line holders that attach to the forks do not line up, nothing a few zip ties wont take care of for a test ride
the head beaings are the same between the bikes, so you can reuse the original bearings if they are in good shape, mine only have 2500 miles on them so they were reused
The head stock nut, lock nut, and upper triple nut are also interchangeable
The key switch will bolt onto the f4i upper triple, there is a gap around the switch but it is not bad, just a cosmetic thing that you see when just looking at it, nothing that matters though unless its a show bike
you need a f4i front fender, the sh unit wont work
f4i clip ons work fine, they are flush with the top of the forks, so no safety ring, but if you keep the forks tight you shouldnt have to worry about it, but the f4i clip ons do work fine
to use the clip ons you need to grind the tabs out of the handle bar mounted accesories, like the throttle tube and kill switch, you can leave the tab for the headlights as it is in the proper place
the head stops are not quite right, with cbr clip ons they do tap the tank before the stops do, more like the stops catch the bars right as they touch the tank
so thats all the easy stuff now onto the fun stuff (read machining)
the brake spacing and axle spacing is different that the sh, but not impossible to correct
using f4i spacers might take care of the axle alignment but i wanted to ride the bike before my f4i spacer came in from honda ($12), so I can report on the f4i spacers next week when they show up
to get the rotors and wheel centered in the forks you need a .230" (9mm)spacer on the right side, the ID of the spacer is .815 (13/16 drill or reamer makes it about .825, worked for me), the OD is .110"
the axle will also need to be put in the left fork farther than stock to get the spacing correct, but in no way effects safety, it is still fully engaged
to get the spacing on the calipers correct, it requires spacers between the calipers and forks to space then in
.150" spacer for the right side and .110 for the left side, now this is exact, using washers might work just fine, but this was exact for my bike, brake pad wear and piston settings in the caliper might make your measurements different, ID of the spacer is 5/16" (5/16 drill bit worked great) and OD is .650"
you will need longer bolts to hold the calipers on, one size up from the stockers works just fine
as superbling said 28mm above the triple for fork placement worked best for him, so that is where I have it set, I havent had time to experiment
So far my impression of this mod is great, it steers much faster, seems more stable at speed (not over 120 yet with new setup), much more firm but not racebike stiff, very nice even for highway cruising
way more stable in the turns, the front end actually tracks straight now, much more positive feedback
brake dive is almost gone, compared to stock brake dive is greatly reduced, even with better calipers it doesnt bottom out now like it did before
braking is actually better just using the stock calipers, without the dive and more rigid front end it makes hard braking much more stable
so far the mod is great, the only negatives so far are the ugly front fender, clipons coming in a little far and a tad lower, and the fab it takes to get it done right
any questions just let me know and if you want some pics just ask and I can snap some
ps - all machining was done on a lathe
using an old wheel spacer, a grinder, some washers, and patience could and should get the job done
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ead.php?t=1892
So i tore into the hawk hoping for an easy swap, not as easy as I hoped
The madatory parts list :
f4i forks
f4i upper and lower triple
f4i front fender
f4i clip ons or maybe heli bars or superbike bars
I also used f4i front calipers but they are almost identical to superhawk calipers, I actually ran Sh calipers for the first ride, so f4i and sh calipers are interchangeable
But the lines are different, using sh calipers and lines with f4i forks is not ideal, the single line from the mc is to short and is tight, and the line holders that attach to the forks do not line up, nothing a few zip ties wont take care of for a test ride
the head beaings are the same between the bikes, so you can reuse the original bearings if they are in good shape, mine only have 2500 miles on them so they were reused
The head stock nut, lock nut, and upper triple nut are also interchangeable
The key switch will bolt onto the f4i upper triple, there is a gap around the switch but it is not bad, just a cosmetic thing that you see when just looking at it, nothing that matters though unless its a show bike
you need a f4i front fender, the sh unit wont work
f4i clip ons work fine, they are flush with the top of the forks, so no safety ring, but if you keep the forks tight you shouldnt have to worry about it, but the f4i clip ons do work fine
to use the clip ons you need to grind the tabs out of the handle bar mounted accesories, like the throttle tube and kill switch, you can leave the tab for the headlights as it is in the proper place
the head stops are not quite right, with cbr clip ons they do tap the tank before the stops do, more like the stops catch the bars right as they touch the tank
so thats all the easy stuff now onto the fun stuff (read machining)
the brake spacing and axle spacing is different that the sh, but not impossible to correct
using f4i spacers might take care of the axle alignment but i wanted to ride the bike before my f4i spacer came in from honda ($12), so I can report on the f4i spacers next week when they show up
to get the rotors and wheel centered in the forks you need a .230" (9mm)spacer on the right side, the ID of the spacer is .815 (13/16 drill or reamer makes it about .825, worked for me), the OD is .110"
the axle will also need to be put in the left fork farther than stock to get the spacing correct, but in no way effects safety, it is still fully engaged
to get the spacing on the calipers correct, it requires spacers between the calipers and forks to space then in
.150" spacer for the right side and .110 for the left side, now this is exact, using washers might work just fine, but this was exact for my bike, brake pad wear and piston settings in the caliper might make your measurements different, ID of the spacer is 5/16" (5/16 drill bit worked great) and OD is .650"
you will need longer bolts to hold the calipers on, one size up from the stockers works just fine
as superbling said 28mm above the triple for fork placement worked best for him, so that is where I have it set, I havent had time to experiment
So far my impression of this mod is great, it steers much faster, seems more stable at speed (not over 120 yet with new setup), much more firm but not racebike stiff, very nice even for highway cruising
way more stable in the turns, the front end actually tracks straight now, much more positive feedback
brake dive is almost gone, compared to stock brake dive is greatly reduced, even with better calipers it doesnt bottom out now like it did before
braking is actually better just using the stock calipers, without the dive and more rigid front end it makes hard braking much more stable
so far the mod is great, the only negatives so far are the ugly front fender, clipons coming in a little far and a tad lower, and the fab it takes to get it done right
any questions just let me know and if you want some pics just ask and I can snap some
ps - all machining was done on a lathe
using an old wheel spacer, a grinder, some washers, and patience could and should get the job done
#2
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 154
From: san luis obispo, ca 93405
In addition
the horn needs to be mount in the same fahion as the sh, stock for the f4i has the horn facing the rear, it will turn around with no problem and wires are long enough
the throttle cables also run the fairing a little bit on full lock turns in parking lots, clocking the thorttle a little will take car of the problem
I am also on the stock rear shock so the rear end sucks but hoping to chang that soon, but this mod still makes a world of difference it any type of riding
the horn needs to be mount in the same fahion as the sh, stock for the f4i has the horn facing the rear, it will turn around with no problem and wires are long enough
the throttle cables also run the fairing a little bit on full lock turns in parking lots, clocking the thorttle a little will take car of the problem
I am also on the stock rear shock so the rear end sucks but hoping to chang that soon, but this mod still makes a world of difference it any type of riding
#5
FWIW, the VTR and F4i calipers may use the same mounts but they are TOTALLY different in all other respects. The VTR uses two pairs of 27 and 30mm pistons whereas the F4i uses much more substantial 34/32mm combo. The pads are also different, with the F4i pads being larger as well as benefitting from a much larger selection (read: better quality). Try the F4i calipers and you will see just how different they are (and take my word for it, you will not go back to VTR units)......
#8
to avoid any machining, you could just use all F4i components.
forks/triples/calipers/wheel/spacers/axle/bearings/nuts&bolts...etc. everything.
I am going to do this conversion soon as I have a complete front end from a donor bike and it has already been built up.
AC Cobra said he used Superbling's setup of 28mm for the forks above the triple. i found another thread for 25mm.
This might make mounting the clipons a little tight, so you may need clipons with risers?
I am going to try to take good measurements of the stock setup and after the swap to keep geometry changes to a minimum. Then change as preferred.
forks/triples/calipers/wheel/spacers/axle/bearings/nuts&bolts...etc. everything.
I am going to do this conversion soon as I have a complete front end from a donor bike and it has already been built up.
AC Cobra said he used Superbling's setup of 28mm for the forks above the triple. i found another thread for 25mm.
This might make mounting the clipons a little tight, so you may need clipons with risers?
I am going to try to take good measurements of the stock setup and after the swap to keep geometry changes to a minimum. Then change as preferred.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Tempest
Technical Discussion
18
09-05-2006 12:33 PM