These photos show bits of my recent installation of MFW Vario adjustable foot pegs and associated mods; i.e., shortening & adjustment of rear brake master cylinder piston rod, lengthening of shift lever, and fabrication & installation of heel heat guards. Unfortunately, due to the angle set by the OEM foot peg bracket, to achieve more leg room the MFW Vario peg kit can only be positioned so the pegs are either down & back or down & forward from the OEM location. Still you gain about 7/8" lower pegs. I settled on the down & forward position, which with my custom saddle is still a lot better if not ideal, and works OK in a full wind-cheating tuck with Helibars. The pegs are available from Chris at Eurotech Motorsports (.com & 530-345-7145) for about $115 plus shipping. These pegs can also be adjusted up & back and up & forward, plus forward and back for a total of 8 index points thru 360 degrees.

see

http://www.eurotechmotorsports.com/f...showdetail=yes

and

http://www.mfw-wolf.de/en/rasten_vario.php

Order the following parts:

Honda Adjustable Front 051 04 01 00 = $41
Either "Master Grip" or "Race" pegs (I got the Race in Silver 050 00 01 00-1) they are both the same length & price @ $29.95
23mm or 50mm Adjuster Arm (I got the 23mm 05100 0023) they are the same price @ $44, the 23mm give a bit less than an inch "drop" & the 50mm about 2 inches (too much for me)

I made the heel guards from .032 aluminum and they are patterned after the 2Bross heat shields (which cost $60 http://www.twobros.com/cgi-bin/shopp...key=005-9504H). Took me a couple hours to fabricate & install plus I put one layer of 1" heat wrap around the connector pipe before attaching the heat shields with a #24 SS hose clamp (which just fit, a #28 or 32 is easier to start but not required).

I bought an OEM shift lever and spliced about 5/8" into it to make it longer for the down & forward peg location, then adjusted its hieght to taste (I also rotated the front shift linkage clamp on the splined shift rod shaft 1 "tooth" clock-wise for less shift "play").

I removed the rear brake MC (but left the hoses attached), drove out the roll pin & cut about 5/16"+ off the end of the piston shaft (eliminating the roll pin hole in the process), removed the lock nut, put a thin sticky washer on the threaded piston shaft and threaded it in to full bottom to lower the brake pedal; then I safety-wired the threaded piston shaft below the clevis just in case. Finally, I adjusted the brake light switch to suit.

Sounds like a lot of work for less than an inch but I think it is worth it!

In pic "Rt Side Ctr" (more pics are available if requested either posted in this thread or by PM), you can see the rare Nipponese case guards and my tank "grip skins" (TechSpec uncut sheet material) that people asked about before.

 

Judging by your pics, this looks to be about the same amount of lowering that I got by using the exhaust mounts. It may not seem like all that much but it really is; especially at the end of a long 600+ mile day. I had enough latitude in the shifter linkage and got the brake low enough via its adjuster that I only had to raise my toe just slightly to reach it.

I was going to get some of the rotating pegs for my RCBVFR project from Thurnmotorsports.com on ebay for $129 but a guy on the vfr site offered a set of buell pegs for $15 so, understandably, I'm going to try them first.

 

I did the Buell Peg mod on my Bandit 1200 and its a pretty nice (cheap) mod to do to give you an extra 1" of legroom. The only thing is that it sticks your boot out about an inch for each peg so some shifter adjustments are needed and a bit of an awkward toe-in heel-out shifting postion is in order. Once you get used to it though (~250 miles) you dont even think about it anymore.