good lookin streefighter motokratt. You did a nice job. Looks great! Those top triples look like they are angled rearward quite a bit with bars with a lot of sweep which gives you a more upright seating position. Awesome.

 

I don't know but I just compared mine to the pics and mine have less sweep. They look like spiegler or bikemaster superbike bars. Check spiegler's site and compare the sweep of the low vs standard superbike(fatbars or 7/8"). The first post on this thread(superbling) has a similar sweep to mine(superbike low) so you don't want that.

 

Thank you. So that whole upper triple clamp is from a CB400?

 

Thank you. So that whole upper triple clamp is from a CB400?

 

wanted to post some changes to this superbike bar alteration thread. For me, it has been an exercise in patience and trial and error(including ruining a set of bars). Hopefully someone entertaining this route may benefit from my experience.

Previously, with the risers adjusted forward, the windshield had to be trimmed and the forks moved down to flush with top, essentially raising the front end to the max, about 4-5mm over OEM. I wasn't adverse to this since Jamie's rear shock mod included a 6mm rise, plus the 190x55 rear @ 13mm higher seemed plenty good for maintaining suitable geometry.

Despite rationalizing the correctness of these alterations, I wasn't happy with the ergos, and not really satisfied with the handling. So, I rotated the rearsets back to OEM thinking that superbike bars are meant to eliminate forward lean and hoping that I just needed to get used to a new way of riding the SH.

While a relaxed/more on your *** riding position may be the case for standard superbike bars, it does not apply to the "low" speigler superbike bars, which have very little rise and sweep, and are basically like drag bars. Just a hair higher than OEM with a flatter angle. Thankfully, I'm happy with this(or it would be 3 sets of bars-dumbass), because sitting back is not acceptable to me relative to the way I like to ride a sportbike. Faster speeds and more bar input, when compared to the sit-up position and intuitive turning of my dual sport XR, dictate a forward lean, some wind protection, more aggressive body position, etc., make this latest set-up perfect for me. Oh and i rotated the rear sets back and up again, but not quite as far as with the clip-ons.

As you can tell from the pics below, the forks are up in the triples lowering the front 10mm, as far as the bars will allow. This along with the higher rear seems better now and the riding position is comfortable and suits my riding style, so all's good at the ranch so far.

 

Genmar will mill the bottom of their risers flat for no extra charge and Renthal makes a great bar. I'm like 5'3" and do no like laying on the tank. This mod makes it feel like a flattrack bike. Perfect.SuperHawk Forum - wolfgun's Album: Wolfgun's 99 - Picture

 

ok, so you need bars with more sweep and higher rise, as with most superbike bars, except for the lows like mine.how do like the danmoto titaniums?

 

They're really light, and really loud. I got them with the optional baffles and they're still pretty loud. I turn heads when going past Motor-City Harley, they definitely know there's a V-Twin going by. The Danmoto's are a lot of bang for the buck. Well made, but not jewelry. This winter I'm planning to lighten the flywheel, do a pair elimination, suspension upgrades, and if I can find a nice undertail I'll do that too. This is the coolest bike I've ever owned.

 

thanks for the feedback wolfgun. OEM pipes are ridiculously heavy. I have done a partial bafflectomy and they are very loud too. I think i'll just cut mine in half, remove the three pipes inside and weld the ends back on and see what that's like.

yeah the SH is a cool bike for many of us, esp if your a carb/twin vs FI/in-line guy. I actually like both, but like the torque, in lieu of high revs, which makes it a fun bike for street and managing speed in the turns.

 

Some of these would work. I like the bridge style but would have to make sure the spacing of the clamps would work. Either way I think they all look pretty trick.
https://www.denniskirk.com/harley-da...s-and-hardware

 

bringing up the thread that won't die, lol

i am adding handle bars. the front brake line T fitting is fixed to the bottom triple clamp. the line going up to the master cylinder is not long enough. did you folks disconnect the T fitting from the fork tube in order to free up length? if so did you still have binding issues because of short length?

another option for me would be custom length SS lines. add the clutch line and we're adding up the $$$ so i''d rather leave the oem lines.

thanks guys

 

i have motocross 1 1/8" bars. unfortunately the 32" width is too much. the center part of the bars is so wide and the rise bends so long that i would have to mount the switch gear way too wide and the wiring and lines aren't long enough. my other mx bikes are 32" wide and my street bikes are all near 28". i will have to look for narrow 28".

"drag bars" and they might be an option.

 

has anyone tried these renthal aluminum street bars? i am thinking ultra low
Renthal - 7/8" Handlebars

 

an update.
i bought some triumph street triple handle bars off ebay. 28" and 1 1/8". i had a few minutes to start installing them. i think they will work.
i had to disconnect the clutch and brake line tethers, routed the throttle cables on the outside of the fork tube, had to loosen the clutch banjo bolt to change the angle that the fitting comes off the master, had to fiddle with this and that, etc... hopefully i can finish the project soon

 

more progress.
ground off the nubs on the switch housings. i use hockey tape on the bar and installed the switch housings over the tape and that keeps them from turning on the bars.
cut the fairing with a 4" angle grinder. in just a few minutes i had things looking ok. i am considering painting the fairings and tank this winter, if i do i will sand and prep the area.
the on/off switch hits the fairing and flips the switch to off. the left switch housing also touches the gas tank. the solution i am thinking of is dropping some weld or welding a small piece onto the turn stoppers. i won't need much.
i had to loosen up various lines and disconnect a few cable organizers. the horn wires were very tight so i just bent the horn bracket up a bit to put a bit of slack in the wires.
i will price out ss clutch and brake lines.

 

someone on the faceplant vtr group recommended using stick on wheel weights to modify the steering stops. i tried it and they work perfect.

 

Thanks for sharing all of this progress! I've got a second top triple drilled with the risers and bar installed on it. I'm just waiting for the chance to throw it all on the bike and see if the cables are long enough. I tried polishing the top triple but it was turning into more work than I wanted to do. It looks good from a few feet. Just don't look too closely!

 

looks good booker

 

bringing up this old thread again. hopefully someone can answer this question.

what length clutch and front brake lines should I order to give enough slack with superbike bars? 3" longer than stock? 4"? 5"? I only get one chance to get it right

 

I have an LSL Riser/Bar/Brakeline kit I have not installed yet. I'll take a measurement on the lines supplied later and post them.

 

thanks for the info. I heard nothing so guessed at 4" longer than stock and ordered them.

 

Finepooch,

The road to hell is paved with good intentions.... Sorry I did not get this info up as fast as I said I would.

For the record my kit had three lines, measuring center to center on the fittings they are 28", 29" and 44" (last one for the clutch)

 

thanks cranken. I will post how the install went

 

bringing up this old thread AGAIN!, lol I am looking at handle bars for my ducati 750ss so back on the topic.

update on my vtr:
everything came together and my install went well. I have been riding the bike for some time now and not one issue.

here is the list of components I used:
oem top triple clamp off ebay
1 1/8" triumph street triple bars.
1 1/8" beta dirt bike bar clamps.
home made spacers under the clamps in order to get the right height and clearance
bolts to hold the clamps, spacers and triple clamp together.
ss brake and clutch lines

ps:
I find all the bar bend coices a bit overwhelming. so I emailed renthal questions. they replied that me that their model 754 would be closest in 7/8" to the triumph street triple bars. I might be wrong but it seems to me that the renthal 754 is close the classic superbike bend. I suspect that other renthal bends would work too.
7/8"
https://road.renthal.com/shop/road-p...s/road-se-bars
1 1/8"
https://road.renthal.com/shop/road-p...s/road-fatbars

 

Didn't I read somewhere long ago and far away that the top clamp from a night hawk fits just fine, and has risers cast into it?