Adding SuperBike Bars and risers
#31
I assume not. I'm pretty sure that if you position them correctly on the Handlebars they will stay inside just like the do on the Stock Clip On or the VFR clip On. But since I've not actually perfromed this mod yet (only VFR Clip On so far) I cannot comment from experience.
#33
Hi Doug,
I am new to the forum and really enjoyed reading up on the bar modifications you have done to your VTR. What is your opinion on the difference in hieght/reward position compared to heli bars? thx.
Tommyg
I am new to the forum and really enjoyed reading up on the bar modifications you have done to your VTR. What is your opinion on the difference in hieght/reward position compared to heli bars? thx.
Tommyg
#34
Here's what I know about them: both the heli's and the vfr's do the same thing: allow the headlight switch to contact the upper fairing on full lock unless you adjust or live with it. This tells me they are about the exact same in height.
The superbike bars are even more both in height and pull back BUT it also depends on what kind of bar bend you get. I mean, you could get a flat "drag" bar and maybe end up even lower than heli's/vfr's. It all depends on what you get.
#35
I like this mod so much that it was one of the first things I did to my new (used) vfr. I think I did a write up on it(?). Anyway, here's some pics of it.
Last edited by superbling; 09-19-2007 at 10:20 PM.
#36
Good choice on the renthal bar. looks lovely. I just got my 98' Hawk a couple of weeks ago(bone stock) and plan on changing the bar/ clip hieght as my first mod. After winter I plan on taking the front plastics and headlight off in favor of a speed tripleish dual headlight kit that can be purchased here:
http://www.aztec8.com/
They have some nice photos on this site and the headlights appear to be quality. RIDE SAFE and GO NICKY this weekend in Portugal!
http://www.aztec8.com/
They have some nice photos on this site and the headlights appear to be quality. RIDE SAFE and GO NICKY this weekend in Portugal!
#37
brake line routing question
I have tne risers mounted. I have installed the bars and tried to dry mount the brake master cylinder assembly and the brake lines won't reach if they go in the front of the triple clamp.
It looks like they will reach if I go behind the triple clamps.
Is there any world ending problem in running them this way? I can't see one and there seems to be enough clearance at full lock.
TIA for advice and comments.
Tom
It looks like they will reach if I go behind the triple clamps.
Is there any world ending problem in running them this way? I can't see one and there seems to be enough clearance at full lock.
TIA for advice and comments.
Tom
#38
Tom,
As long as they aren't fouling on anything when going from lock to lock, you're good to go. You might also "cheat" the m/c angle down more than you're use to for a tiny bit more slack. You'll also gain some more slack sitting on the bike.
If none of this helps, get another bar with less rise (easy method) or longer lines (harder method).
As long as they aren't fouling on anything when going from lock to lock, you're good to go. You might also "cheat" the m/c angle down more than you're use to for a tiny bit more slack. You'll also gain some more slack sitting on the bike.
If none of this helps, get another bar with less rise (easy method) or longer lines (harder method).
#39
Thanks 4 all your detail and patience concerning your Superbike bars mod. I'd like to ask you if you drilled your top bridge yourself (what size holes), and was this done on or off your bike? Any tips or cautions or things you would've done differently? I would appreciate your assistance .
#40
conversion details
Superbike bars on a Superhawk.
Things slowed down and I finally got the superbike bars mounted and fully installed.
I followed Superbling's description.
There are pictures attached of the parts, the finished job and a few details of note.
Dave states that these bars "barely fit" without modifying or replacing stock wiring and hydraulics.
I can't stress this enough. "Barely"!!!
Pictures
1. parts required
2. premount. old and new bars both in place.
3. after conversion from front.
4. after conversion from rear.
5. closeup of clutch master cylinder/ left fork tube interference
To determine where to drill for the bar mounts, I preassembled the bars and mounts held them in place and traced the outline of the mount on the top tripleclamp. Then I located the center of the hole , tooka deep breath and drilled a 1/8 pilot hole, followed by the 10 mm hole.
OOPS!
I need help on how to insert the images. They are now on my hard drive. How do I make them thumbnails, like you big dogs do??
Miles of Smiles
Tom
Things slowed down and I finally got the superbike bars mounted and fully installed.
I followed Superbling's description.
There are pictures attached of the parts, the finished job and a few details of note.
Dave states that these bars "barely fit" without modifying or replacing stock wiring and hydraulics.
I can't stress this enough. "Barely"!!!
Pictures
1. parts required
2. premount. old and new bars both in place.
3. after conversion from front.
4. after conversion from rear.
5. closeup of clutch master cylinder/ left fork tube interference
To determine where to drill for the bar mounts, I preassembled the bars and mounts held them in place and traced the outline of the mount on the top tripleclamp. Then I located the center of the hole , tooka deep breath and drilled a 1/8 pilot hole, followed by the 10 mm hole.
OOPS!
I need help on how to insert the images. They are now on my hard drive. How do I make them thumbnails, like you big dogs do??
Miles of Smiles
Tom
#42
Tom,
Open up your post that you want the pictures in by clicking "edit". Scroll down towards the bottom and you'll see "manage your attachments". Click on that and use the "upload from your computer" option or you could link the URL they are at.
Remember: they need to 97kb or less to upload which is pretty small or heavily compressed.
Open up your post that you want the pictures in by clicking "edit". Scroll down towards the bottom and you'll see "manage your attachments". Click on that and use the "upload from your computer" option or you could link the URL they are at.
Remember: they need to 97kb or less to upload which is pretty small or heavily compressed.
#47
I can take some pictures for you. I was going to go the same way as superbling but I got outbid on the used triple. There is another guy in my area that did the same as superbling(drilling and reinforcing the triple) with good results. I just didn't want to try it on my only triple. You can buy the bar clamps like superblings at any cyclegear etc. Theyre just dirtbike bar risers. Cheap too. Speigler kit cost me $300
#48
I'm using TAG mounts #4092 (5mm rise) sourced from ebay but any dirtbike oriented place should have them. Just make sure they have a separate bolt that threads into the bottom. Cheap drag bar with small rise also sourced from me-pay.
I use a lock washer plus locktite on the threads, it's very, very secure. The bolts thread into the mounts for nearly an inch. It would take for freekin' ever for one to vibrate out. IOW, you'd have plenty of warning of one loosening before it would become dangerous.
BTW, that's a superhawk clutch m/c in the pic. So I gained about 10ft/lbs of torque!!!!
Last edited by superbling; 04-14-2008 at 07:40 AM.
#49
This mod is amazing, it completly changes the feel. I recomend it to anyone that has a long commute or for a sport/touring rig. I did this mod+full RC51 brakes+DB windscrean+Staintune exhaust.....I feel like the bike is one with me..............
#50
I finally finished mine too. I had stock clip ons, then VFR and now the superbike bars. I must confess, after riding for about a year with the VFR clip ons the superbike bars felt strange. It is slowly growing on me and I have noticed no pain in the wrists or arms like I had on the stock and to a small extent on the VFR clip ons.
I used some old ATV risers I got from e-bay and the superbike bar Bling mentioned in his original post. Oh yeah, I have SS brake lines and it mattered becuase I also raised the fork tubes in the mount. So now even the SS line are a little tight. maybe I will replace the one line which is tight. some day soon.
I think the next mod for me is the Buell pegs.... after that if I'm not comfortable it is time to give up on my Superhawk dreams! (Not really, I really like this bike!)
Let me know if anyone wants any pics posted.
I used some old ATV risers I got from e-bay and the superbike bar Bling mentioned in his original post. Oh yeah, I have SS brake lines and it mattered becuase I also raised the fork tubes in the mount. So now even the SS line are a little tight. maybe I will replace the one line which is tight. some day soon.
I think the next mod for me is the Buell pegs.... after that if I'm not comfortable it is time to give up on my Superhawk dreams! (Not really, I really like this bike!)
Let me know if anyone wants any pics posted.
#51
Reinforcement & 7/8" bars?
Did U get the TAG +55mm risers (on Ebay?) for 7/8'" bars & did you reinforce the bottom of the top triple clamp? I'm thinking some 1/8"+ aluminum plates cut to fit & epoxied to the underside of the 3-clamp and maybe the OS risers for tapered OS bars; or std 7/8" bars plus a MX type clamp-on cross bar (which would provide a place to mount a GPS). Wuy U tink?
I'm now on my 3rd install on yet another VFR/CBR hybrid project. This particular install will require longer throttle/choke cables but the wiring has plenty of slack.
I'm using TAG mounts sourced from ebay but any dirtbike oriented place should have them. Just make sure they have a separate bolt that threads into the bottom.
I use a lock washer plus locktite on the threads, it's very, very secure. The bolts thread into the mounts for nearly an inch. It would take for freekin' ever for one to vibrate out. IOW, you'd have plenty of warning of one loosening before it would become dangerous.
BTW, that's a superhawk clutch m/c in the pic. So I gained about 10ft/lbs of torque!!!!
I'm using TAG mounts sourced from ebay but any dirtbike oriented place should have them. Just make sure they have a separate bolt that threads into the bottom.
I use a lock washer plus locktite on the threads, it's very, very secure. The bolts thread into the mounts for nearly an inch. It would take for freekin' ever for one to vibrate out. IOW, you'd have plenty of warning of one loosening before it would become dangerous.
BTW, that's a superhawk clutch m/c in the pic. So I gained about 10ft/lbs of torque!!!!
#53
The cross bar on the dirt bike oriented handlebars isn't 7/8's and is very small so it will depend on what kind of mounting system you have or come up with to install a gps or other devices.
#54
What I meant...
The moose racing mount was 55mm rise but the TAG unit was lower (35mm?) or so. The TAG was used on my VFR's. I added a large flat washer and a lock washer underneath the triple to spread out the load.
The cross bar on the dirt bike oriented handlebars isn't 7/8's and is very small so it will depend on what kind of mounting system you have or come up with to install a gps or other devices.
The cross bar on the dirt bike oriented handlebars isn't 7/8's and is very small so it will depend on what kind of mounting system you have or come up with to install a gps or other devices.
I meant a cross bar to FIT 7/8 bars and yes, the cross bars are thinner.
Big question is best riser to use on VTR?
Thanks BTW, for alternative to Buell pegs
http://www.eurotechmotorsports.com/f...row=26&Big=Yes
#55
well, I suggest if your going to take the "do it yourself" route, then take lower risers and get a few different bar bends to find and fit your needs. As long as you dont scuff them all up you might even be able to send / take them back to where you got them from.
I got two different bends but in the end it was the original bend that Bling noted that worked best for me. This was because of the cable/line routing and length. (also I'm a little lazy and low on cash for side projects).
I got two different bends but in the end it was the original bend that Bling noted that worked best for me. This was because of the cable/line routing and length. (also I'm a little lazy and low on cash for side projects).
#56
which are taller?
well, I suggest if your going to take the "do it yourself" route, then take lower risers and get a few different bar bends to find and fit your needs. As long as you dont scuff them all up you might even be able to send / take them back to where you got them from.
I got two different bends but in the end it was the original bend that Bling noted that worked best for me. This was because of the cable/line routing and length. (also I'm a little lazy and low on cash for side projects).
I got two different bends but in the end it was the original bend that Bling noted that worked best for me. This was because of the cable/line routing and length. (also I'm a little lazy and low on cash for side projects).
Superbling, do you know?
#59
Ahhh.... crap.
I guess the links were lost when we had the hard crash a while back. I'll reload them via photobucket so they will stay around.
Done, hopefully I remembered them all.
I guess the links were lost when we had the hard crash a while back. I'll reload them via photobucket so they will stay around.
Done, hopefully I remembered them all.
Last edited by superbling; 09-19-2007 at 10:20 PM.
#60
Found some other pics of version one from the first page (moose racing risers) that graphically show the difference between this mod and stock clipons:
A taller screen, although not mandatory, is preferred since you'll be sitting up higher.
A taller screen, although not mandatory, is preferred since you'll be sitting up higher.
Last edited by superbling; 04-15-2008 at 01:27 PM.