130 hp what does it take
#10
it all depends on whether you mean at the crank or rear wheel. 130 hp at the rear wheel would likely result in an engine whose long-term reliability is patchy at best. On the other hand, 130 crank hp would land you @ 115 hp at the rear wheel. I am in that general area, have a look at my signature for details.
#11
· Higher lift longer duration cams degreed using dial gauge and degree wheel to get lobe centers around 104
· Oversized intake valves
· High compression JE pistons with valve pockets milled to proper clearance (assemble and test with clay).
· Milled cylinder head
· Five angle CNC valve job (fast by Gast does this - http://www.fastbygast.com/ )
· I would consider Falicon crank and rod treatment
· High output coils
· I would undercut the transmission gears
· Re-jet all three main card circuits.
· Oversized intake valves
· High compression JE pistons with valve pockets milled to proper clearance (assemble and test with clay).
· Milled cylinder head
· Five angle CNC valve job (fast by Gast does this - http://www.fastbygast.com/ )
· I would consider Falicon crank and rod treatment
· High output coils
· I would undercut the transmission gears
· Re-jet all three main card circuits.
#12
OK Guys. I thought that Italian fellow had the highest normally aspirated dyno verified rear wheel run at 120? The rumi race bike was higher but had no low end AT ALL. To get to 130 RWHP will take more than most are willing to massage the motor. I'm w/ some, buy an I-4 liter bike if you want that sort of thing, but that wasn't the OP's question. I can't use what I've got already Most of the time, and when I want More I'm already well into the illegal range and this bike gives me more smiles per mile than anything I've ridden...
#17
+1, this is probably the quickest and cheapest way yo get there cuz these day's you can pickup a nice RC for $5K, while reworking the SH motor will cost quite a bit unless you have access to a second motor cheap and do all the work yourself like; flowed heads, HC pistons, OS bored cylinders, OS valves, full exhaust system, lightened flywheel, light weight rods, stronger & lighter crank, velocity stacks, etc...
#18
+1, this is probably the quickest and cheapest way yo get there cuz these day's you can pickup a nice RC for $5K, while reworking the SH motor will cost quite a bit unless you have access to a second motor cheap and do all the work yourself like; flowed heads, HC pistons, OS bored cylinders, OS valves, full exhaust system, lightened flywheel, light weight rods, stronger & lighter crank, velocity stacks, etc...
#19
Where is the fun in that? Honestly, anyone with a checking account can buy a fast bike, but it takes talent and hard work to build one yourself. My 1098 has 170 rear wheel hp but if I built my VTR up to have 130 I think I would enjoy it more. At least there would be a greater sense of satisfaction about the whole thing.
#20
Bob Hayashida got 130-135 RWHP reliably, using a massaged stock crank with stage 2 cams, Carillo rods, JE pistons, HRC ECU with no rev limiter and lots of attention to detail. He broke two cranks trying for more, but could run all season at that level.
Except for the brittle wrist pin that broke and caused the connecting rod to saw the case in half...
Anybody who got more out of a VTR engine used a forge crank. They only made 18 or so of them and they were outrageously expensive.
The ECUs are almost impossible to find, so getting the RPM you need for 130 HP is not going to be easy.
Except for the brittle wrist pin that broke and caused the connecting rod to saw the case in half...
Anybody who got more out of a VTR engine used a forge crank. They only made 18 or so of them and they were outrageously expensive.
The ECUs are almost impossible to find, so getting the RPM you need for 130 HP is not going to be easy.
#21
Where is the fun in that? Honestly, anyone with a checking account can buy a fast bike, but it takes talent and hard work to build one yourself. My 1098 has 170 rear wheel hp but if I built my VTR up to have 130 I think I would enjoy it more. At least there would be a greater sense of satisfaction about the whole thing.
#22
Where is the fun in that? Honestly, anyone with a checking account can buy a fast bike, but it takes talent and hard work to build one yourself. My 1098 has 170 rear wheel hp but if I built my VTR up to have 130 I think I would enjoy it more. At least there would be a greater sense of satisfaction about the whole thing.
#23
Ok, here's some general numbers...Given a bike weighing in a 400lbs (I know its more) and a 200lb rider...
600lbs bike+rider, 110hp= power to weight ratio of 5.45
Rider loses 50lbs
550lbs bike+rider, 110hp= power to weight ratio of 5
Rider's 100lb girlfriend on bike
500lbs bike+rider, 110hp= power to weight ratio of 4.5
600lbs bike+rider, 130hp= power to weight ratio of 4.6
Conclusion- if you want 130hp just let your girl ride it...
600lbs bike+rider, 110hp= power to weight ratio of 5.45
Rider loses 50lbs
550lbs bike+rider, 110hp= power to weight ratio of 5
Rider's 100lb girlfriend on bike
500lbs bike+rider, 110hp= power to weight ratio of 4.5
600lbs bike+rider, 130hp= power to weight ratio of 4.6
Conclusion- if you want 130hp just let your girl ride it...
#25
It's just a yellow blur..... to everyone else. That thing is uber fast. It's harder to keep the front end down in second on that bike as it is in first on the VTR. Frankly, I like the idea of a 130hp VTR. I really think it would be a better overall bike.
#28
#29
After GP Motorcycles replaced my ECU, airbox, and all four cams with '08 components (stalling issue, warranty work), my '07 1098 lifts under WOT in 3rd gear. 170 RWHP out of the 1098 is impressive, how did you accomplish that?