What Rims for my SH?
11-05-2012 | 11:36 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 24
From: Michigan
What Rims for my SH?
Hello all, just purchased my first SH (new to the site as of today). A 98 with jet kit, k&n air filter, D&D pipes, bent front rim, and a extremely stretched chain. I want to perform modifications and wondering if you folks would have input. I hear that front rims from a 95-98 cbr 600 f3 will bolt and play on the SH, is this true? I also heard that 95-97 cbr 900 rr rears rims work also, same question? This is purely cosmetic, minus the front bent rim I currently own. I would also like to do a sprocket conversion as well as upgrading to an X-ring chain (thinking -1 front, +2 rear) I know this will affect the top end, but I am in it for the torque, any thoughts on this? Thinking of putting some aftermarket turn signal mirrors also, does anyone have any suggestions? Basically I want to do a few things to it and ride it for the next couple of years, then I am hoping to go through the entire thing from front to back (including engine mods if possible), I love the v-twin powerplant compared to the 4's. All thoughts and recommendations welcomed. 
11-05-2012 | 03:42 PM
#6
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SuperBike
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,082
From: Menifee, CA
You already know about the f3's and the rears, those other model weren't imported to the US although Canada might have gotten a few so for practical purposes they don't count.
As for the sprockets I have yet to hear a good reason to go down 1 in the front if you're going up 2 in the rear, unless you're just into wheelies or stunting which in my mind aren't good reasons to begin with.
As for the sprockets I have yet to hear a good reason to go down 1 in the front if you're going up 2 in the rear, unless you're just into wheelies or stunting which in my mind aren't good reasons to begin with.
11-05-2012 | 03:53 PM
#7
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From: Gettysburg, Pa
Welcome to the forum. There have been quite a few new members from the great state of Michigan. GO BLUE!!!!!!
Tis true IMO. Go up +2 or +3 in the rear and see how you like it. I've always known +3 out back to be about equal to -1 in the front. Start with one or the other, not both.
And as far as torque goes, I don't think you're short to start with!
Is the VTR your first bike?
Tis true IMO. Go up +2 or +3 in the rear and see how you like it. I've always known +3 out back to be about equal to -1 in the front. Start with one or the other, not both.
And as far as torque goes, I don't think you're short to start with!
Is the VTR your first bike?
Last edited by Wolverine; 11-05-2012 at 07:08 PM.
11-05-2012 | 04:34 PM
#8
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Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 24
From: Michigan
Sounds good on the sprockets, think I will just go up 2 or the 3 in the rear. No, this is not my first bike, it used to be my buddies. It was the first rocket style bike that I have ever rode though, I have owned a 03 R6 and a 2010 ninja. Not goin to stunt or wheelies, just want some more grunt, although it does have plenty.
11-05-2012 | 06:06 PM
#9
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SuperBike
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,082
From: Menifee, CA
The reason I run a +2 on the rear is that it gets 6th gear at @1:1 instead of an overdrive and that is the only reason. With the torque and HP of this bike nothing else is really needed or warranted.
11-05-2012 | 07:31 PM
#11
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SuperBike
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Posts: 1,082
From: Menifee, CA
SmokinJoe has apoint in that he's in an urban environment and the shorter gearing probably comes in handy in cage avoidance and stop light hustling.
You however are in Michigan and you haven't said what your riding environment is. If it's not urban and has more wide open spaces riding then I still say +2 is the most you want to do. Lot's of free flowing torque and acceleration without needing to be a screamer between corners. The difference between twins and I4's!
You however are in Michigan and you haven't said what your riding environment is. If it's not urban and has more wide open spaces riding then I still say +2 is the most you want to do. Lot's of free flowing torque and acceleration without needing to be a screamer between corners. The difference between twins and I4's!
11-06-2012 | 05:00 AM
#12
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 24
From: Michigan
My riding style varies, urban, country, just about everywhere and anywhere there is a road I will ride (live on the west side of michigan and ride to Detroit a lot). I got this SH to rip it up in my local twisties. It will however also go on long rides. I usually ride anywhere from 8 to 12000 miles in a season. I also own a cruiser so the SH will not be my main source for the longer rides, although it will see some longs here and there. Mainly I want to lean low an shred up the corners. Don't really care about gas range or mileage, just mainly looking for the performance aspect. Sticky tires, asphalt, and monster torque is the fun on my menu.
11-06-2012 | 06:04 PM
#16
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 24
From: Michigan
Hey there folks, can you experienced SH riders and modifiers tell me is these rims will work for my SH. Check out the following links:
96 CBR900RR Rear Wheel Rim Blue Honda CBR 900 900RR CBR900 95 97 98 | eBay
3 5x17 Front Aluminium Alloy 6 Spoke Wheel Honda CBR600 F3 Super Sport 1995 1998 | eBay
96 CBR900RR Rear Wheel Rim Blue Honda CBR 900 900RR CBR900 95 97 98 | eBay
3 5x17 Front Aluminium Alloy 6 Spoke Wheel Honda CBR600 F3 Super Sport 1995 1998 | eBay
11-07-2012 | 07:51 AM
#18
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MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: altoona, pa
I got this SH to rip it up in my local twisties. It will however also go on long rides. I usually ride anywhere from 8 to 12000 miles in a season. I also own a cruiser so the SH will not be my main source for the longer rides, although it will see some longs here and there. Mainly I want to lean low an shred up the corners. Don't really care about gas range or mileage, just mainly looking for the performance aspect. Sticky tires, asphalt, and monster torque is the fun on my menu.
11-07-2012 | 08:22 AM
#20
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MotoGP
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From: altoona, pa
Welcome to SupersproxUSA.com
kinda the best of both worlds..lighter than steel, stronger than alum. If you go pure alum, AFAM or similar, no cheapie vortex.
I just took an AFAM off worn out at 17000.....good sprocket. I slapped on a steel 43 temporarily because i had to buy tires.haha
kinda the best of both worlds..lighter than steel, stronger than alum. If you go pure alum, AFAM or similar, no cheapie vortex.
I just took an AFAM off worn out at 17000.....good sprocket. I slapped on a steel 43 temporarily because i had to buy tires.haha
11-07-2012 | 09:04 AM
#21
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MotoGP
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Welcome to SupersproxUSA.com
kinda the best of both worlds..lighter than steel, stronger than alum. If you go pure alum, AFAM or similar, no cheapie vortex.
kinda the best of both worlds..lighter than steel, stronger than alum. If you go pure alum, AFAM or similar, no cheapie vortex.
11-07-2012 | 09:23 AM
#23
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MotoGP
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From: altoona, pa
that's right......went thru a POS vortex in less than 3 thou. i did turn that afam around and the teeth were skinnneee.......oh carrozzeria wheels and 3 sets of power pures def helped. No way i'll get that with these heavy Q2s, but i'll pay the piper cause me love the stick.
11-07-2012 | 09:53 AM
#24
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From: altoona, pa
yeah. say you get a quality Xring chain and even a superior alum sprocket like AFAM. There's no way the chain's gonna wear anywhere near the sprocket, barring serious neglect. A good chain can tear up an alum sprocket in no time.
Even with TLC you end up with a good chain and a good steel CS sprock and a shot rear sprocket. I took an 8 link piece of new chain(I cut off new) and aligned it with mine at 17000 miles on it and there was no detectable stretch, albeit, there is a little tight spot.
Anyway, it seems that the supersprox steel over alum may offer a better balanced combo in terms of wearing everything more evenly while still providing a measure of reduced unsprung spinning weight.
Even with TLC you end up with a good chain and a good steel CS sprock and a shot rear sprocket. I took an 8 link piece of new chain(I cut off new) and aligned it with mine at 17000 miles on it and there was no detectable stretch, albeit, there is a little tight spot.
Anyway, it seems that the supersprox steel over alum may offer a better balanced combo in terms of wearing everything more evenly while still providing a measure of reduced unsprung spinning weight.
11-08-2012 | 07:10 PM
#25
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 24
From: Michigan
Okay this is what I have come up with. Curious on what you guys think as far as changing the gearing ratio. Meaning how will this affect the bike. I don't care about going 160 mph, but would like break neck acceleration when coming out I turns. Will this set up be okay for daily use, commute, as well? Thinking 15/43, I know many have said just a 43 in the rear but just wondering.
http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/4730...00f-97-06.html
http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/4730...00f-97-06.html
Last edited by Twins+1; 11-08-2012 at 07:16 PM.
11-08-2012 | 07:24 PM
#26
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SuperBike
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From: South of Live Free or Die & North of Family Guy
Okay this is what I have come up with. Curious on what you guys think as far as changing the gearing ratio. Meaning how will this affect the bike. I don't care about going 160 mph, but would like break neck acceleration when coming out I turns. Will this set up be okay for daily use, commute, as well? Thinking 15/43, I know many have said just a 43 in the rear but just wondering.
520 Conversion Kit - Superlite Steel Sprocket Set w/D.I.D. Brand Premium 520 X'ring Chain - HONDA VTR 1000F '97-06 Sprocket Center
520 Conversion Kit - Superlite Steel Sprocket Set w/D.I.D. Brand Premium 520 X'ring Chain - HONDA VTR 1000F '97-06 Sprocket Center
As for the ratio, just make up your own mind, you can go all day with opinions, but at the end of the day it is about your level of comfort
Last edited by NHSH; 11-08-2012 at 07:26 PM.
11-08-2012 | 07:42 PM
#27
Thread Starter
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Squid
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 24
From: Michigan
Thanks, they had two different chains that I was looking at. One is a heavy duty for 1200 cc bikes the other one was for a 750, but they stated that many use these in liter bikes because of the lightweight. Is the difference that much?
11-08-2012 | 08:26 PM
#29
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From: Lake View Terrace, CA
Okay this is what I have come up with. Curious on what you guys think as far as changing the gearing ratio. Meaning how will this affect the bike. I don't care about going 160 mph, but would like break neck acceleration when coming out I turns. Will this set up be okay for daily use, commute, as well? Thinking 15/43, I know many have said just a 43 in the rear but just wondering.
520 Conversion Kit - Superlite Steel Sprocket Set w/D.I.D. Brand Premium 520 X'ring Chain - HONDA VTR 1000F '97-06 Sprocket Center
520 Conversion Kit - Superlite Steel Sprocket Set w/D.I.D. Brand Premium 520 X'ring Chain - HONDA VTR 1000F '97-06 Sprocket Center
Running 15\43 is just silly IMHO. The reason I say this is if you go to a site like Gearing Commander and punch in the numbers you will see that compared to the stock 16\41 gearing you are at one gear ratio difference.
What this means is that if you are in say 3rd with 15\43 final drive you will have close enough to be called the exact same gearing as a bike with 16\41 gearing in second. Both bikes will accelerate at the same speed at that point so any gains are just a placebo.
You can go down 1 on the front or up 2 on the rear if you would like a little more punch.
Any more than that and all you get is a 1st gear that is unusable for all practical purposes and you give up your 6th gear......
For me it's just easier to down shift one and twist the throttle.....
