Rear Flushmounts - Best way to cut plastic?
#1
Rear Flushmounts - Best way to cut plastic?
I've searched the forum under several different keywords and not found anything, so ...
I'm interested in running the LP LED Flushmount IVs (medium) on the rear and was wondering the best way to cut/drill/trim the plastic to mount them. I'll only get one shot at this and don't want to frak the plastic up. I'm sure I've seen a pic of someone's bike with these on the rear, so it appears to have been done successfully.
Any advise and/or recommendations are appreciated! Thanks!
I'm interested in running the LP LED Flushmount IVs (medium) on the rear and was wondering the best way to cut/drill/trim the plastic to mount them. I'll only get one shot at this and don't want to frak the plastic up. I'm sure I've seen a pic of someone's bike with these on the rear, so it appears to have been done successfully.
Any advise and/or recommendations are appreciated! Thanks!
#2
Well, I''ve never cut the plastic on my bike, but I've found that a drimmel with the metal cutting shaft (looks kind of like a drill bit) works well. It does slightly melt the plastic. I advise that you start with an undersized hole to see how it works for you before making the final cut.
#4
On your plastic, cover the area that you are going to cut with a layer of low tack painters masking tape and rub it down. On the tape, draw the outline of the hole that you want to make. Working from a pilot hole inside the outline, work your way around the line you made staying small and test fitting often as you near the pattern perimeter.
I like either the blue or purple 'Scotch' brand 2" tape.
I like either the blue or purple 'Scotch' brand 2" tape.
#5
When I took my fender off, I used a putty knife and heated it with a torch, it sliced through smoothly, and makes a nice straight line. Plus it doesn't spray plastic bits everywhere like a dremmel.
#6
+1 on blue tape & hole saw or forstner bit depending on holes size and for oblong openings connect 2 hole saw/forstner bit holes with a sharp construction knife with a metal straight edge or free-hand but making multiple passes. Hot plunge cutting with a construction knife maintained at the proper temperature with a butane torch works for square/rectangular/sharp edged openings, and trimming off bits, for example, removing the rock guards from the stacion tubes (slicing on the rear flash line). Edges can be polished with a file and then aluminum oxide impregnated rubber tips than thread onto a mandrel for a rotary motor like a Dremel. The tips come in bullet, wheel, cone and cylinder shapes in different grits. Low speed is required for any drilling, cutting and polishing.
Last edited by skokievtr; 05-23-2008 at 03:55 PM.
#7
#8
Thanks all for the recommendations. I'm going to give this idea a little more thought before cutting, maybe look at some other rear signal options. If I do go this route, I'll post pics and a description. Today, however, is beautiful and I just want to ride (and save the mods for rainy days). Thanks again!
#11
LOL, I must be more ham fisted. The low range on my Dremel says 5000 RPM. If I press it into the material I'm cutting, I can get it down to about 30.
#12
too many years ago I had a woodburning set with a small knife blade attachment. woodburner was just a small electric soldering iron with a threaded end to take various shaped tips. with the blade on it worked great for cutting plastic. i've ground a soldering gun tip into a blade shape more recently, but it is difficult to get it very thin, so it is a bit more course of a tool and heavier and bulkier to use. laser seems like the logical tool, maybe use an old cd burner and rig something up. might be kidding about the laser.
#13
Actually, I just installed an integrated LED taillight yesterday, so I'm probably going to stick with that for the foreseeable future. And I just don't have the heart to start cutting into that beautiful red. Maybe in a year or two ...
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