Proton or Watsen Flushmount!?!?!?!
#1
Proton or Watsen Flushmount!?!?!?!
I've searched and searched for info concerning Protons AND Watsens flushmounts. Only to come to the conclusion that I totally like both of em. Protons are programmable.....Watsens have that cool 3-LED config. So, what do you guys think looks cooler....the Watsens in the left pic or the Protons on the right?
Anyone with experiences with either?
Any install tips?
Anyone with experiences with either?
Any install tips?
#2
Protons came on my RC51. They are very bright but I haven't tried nor looked into the programming feature. Do you know if they can be turned into running lights? That's a feature I want and will go back to stock if I have to.
#5
#6
Watsen look cleaner but I think Protons would be brighter. I also like the strobe, normal flash, and fade + running lights you can do with the Protons.
My vote would be Protons based on the fact they are cheaper and might be more effective.
My vote would be Protons based on the fact they are cheaper and might be more effective.
#9
I have found that if you are running at least 1 regular bulb on each side no resistors are needed, but if you go with all LED then yes resistors are necessary. I can't remember exactly what I used but it was very close to the values of the ones LP sells. As for the apparent flicker on the left side, I have no idea what is going on there, its ONLY in the video, maybe because I'm using a still cam in video mode and it's not as fast. In person though there is absolutely no flicker or anything like that. It also makes the blink look irregular at times but it's the same thing, only happens in the video. They were very easy to install, I kept the ruber grommets from the stock blinkers. I have seen others go without, but it was tough to position them perfectly over the hole without them. (I know someone will make a comment about the wax around the blinker, I took care of it)
#10
Rumble
What do you mean ALL LED....do you mean the turn signals? I've got the mototek undertail coming so I assume in that case I'll be all LED and will have to get a resistor right? Also, will I need a resistor for each light? Or is there and easier way? BTW, awesome looking Hawk.
Thanks,
Scout
What do you mean ALL LED....do you mean the turn signals? I've got the mototek undertail coming so I assume in that case I'll be all LED and will have to get a resistor right? Also, will I need a resistor for each light? Or is there and easier way? BTW, awesome looking Hawk.
Thanks,
Scout
#11
Rumble
What do you mean ALL LED....do you mean the turn signals? I've got the mototek undertail coming so I assume in that case I'll be all LED and will have to get a resistor right? Also, will I need a resistor for each light? Or is there and easier way? BTW, awesome looking Hawk.
Thanks,
Scout
What do you mean ALL LED....do you mean the turn signals? I've got the mototek undertail coming so I assume in that case I'll be all LED and will have to get a resistor right? Also, will I need a resistor for each light? Or is there and easier way? BTW, awesome looking Hawk.
Thanks,
Scout
#12
When I did the undertail, I still had the stock front signals and didn't need any resistors. Once I went to front and rear (all) LED there wasn't enough of a draw and they would barely even light. I put one resistor on each side in the rear, where there was more room to tuck them away and they work fine now. I saw the new relay after I did this, but still might pick one up to get rid of the resistors.
#13
Well... to get the correct flash rate, you need one on ALL of them... In your case as those are "programmable" it might not be neccesary... also you seem to have less stringent laws "over there"...
#14
Awesome tips. Anyone know where to get said relay? Rumble, how easy was that undertail to install. It's on the way from Canada right now. After i get it to paint, I'm putting it one. I did install an undertail on my '01 SV and that required cutting the stock fender off. I assume the same for the Mototek?
Hehe...I love modding bikes!!!
Hehe...I love modding bikes!!!
#17
IIRC, he bought the ones for the RC51 but they will work with reusing the stock turn signal rubber piece, or make a trim piece from ABS. I've also seen those rubber pieces to fill in the area of flushmounts at Cycle Gear. They have the same shape as the VTRs (kinda teardrop).
#18
IIRC, he bought the ones for the RC51 but they will work with reusing the stock turn signal rubber piece, or make a trim piece from ABS. I've also seen those rubber pieces to fill in the area of flushmounts at Cycle Gear. They have the same shape as the VTRs (kinda teardrop).
#20
#21
I ordered the RC51 Protons and reused the rubber grommet from the stock signals. As for the undertail, there is a decent amount of cutting needed, I tried to remove as little as possible, and I made a plate to cover the cut out area. Make sure you don't cut off the rubber strap and hook, that way you can still secure the 1/2 piece of paper that will fit under there if placed in properly. Just TAKE YOUR TIME cutting, there are many different opinions on the easiest way to make a neat cut. A dremmel will work but they usually make quite a mess, I bought a $1 putty knife and heated it with a torch, then pushed it through the plastic. Makes a nice neat cut, just be careful of any wires.
#22
#23
#24
They actually will work without the rubber, it just leaves a small gap at one end, and for some reason, Honda decided not to paint completely around the hole so it looks a little unfinished without grommets. If you got some, you could still install them and see how you like them, if you decide you want to order some grommets, you could just leave the blinkers in while you wait.
#26
Absolutely no cutting for the Proton (RC51) flushmounts. If I remember right, I added a large fender washer in the back to secure them. If I think of it I'll try to get a pic, I think I put a bend in the washers to fit tighter.
#29
There are 4 wires: ground, running light, and 2 for blinkers. I believe orange and yellow, with just yellow hooked up you get strobe, orange only is fade, and both is normal flash
(the colors may be different but that's the idea), even if you put steady 12v to the bliner wire(s) they will still flash at a normal rate, so they aren't affected by fast flashing. I had to add resistors because they woudn't even draw enough current to make the flasher relay work, and were not very bright. I knew it wasn't the light itself because they worked fine hooked to the running light wire. Resistors took care of that and they work fine now.
(the colors may be different but that's the idea), even if you put steady 12v to the bliner wire(s) they will still flash at a normal rate, so they aren't affected by fast flashing. I had to add resistors because they woudn't even draw enough current to make the flasher relay work, and were not very bright. I knew it wasn't the light itself because they worked fine hooked to the running light wire. Resistors took care of that and they work fine now.