Painting Completed - Seal Cowling and Lower
#5
You could probably clean up and spray a few coats of clear on the mufflers and make 'em look new as well. I was goofing around with an old faded tbr carbon can awhile ago. Just gave it a quick wet sand and rattle canned it & it looked almost brand new.
#7
You must be reading my mind. I was wondering if there was some special paint to use on the carbon cans. So clear coat will do the trick, eh?
#8
They don't seem to get very hot but I believe I've now seen high temp paint made in clear, and that's what I'd go for. Depends on how bad the carbon is, I guess it could make it look blotchy depending if it's rubbed or dried out bad in places and penetrates deeper in some places than others. I'm sure you know more about painting than I do. Maybe mask off and test a small square on the backside of one of the cans that you can't see to try it out.
#9
Also if you plan on repacking them anytime soon I've added a thin aluminum shield around the packing on the couple carbon cans I've repacked. They sell it in the auto parts store and it's seems like it would help protect the carbon from some of the heat. I know some companies like LeoVince supposedly come this way from the factory. Also be careful if/when you dissassemble those cans. Unlike say Erions or M4 that have a full piece of pipe on the caps that slips into the baffle, TBR endcaps have four fragile little "fingers" that hold the baffle it place. They break easily, sometimes on their own, and will allow the baffle to drop down or move around. I repaired one pretty easily while I was taking a TIG class, but it's kind of a pain if you don't have access to or know someone as it's kind of a delicate repair.
#11
Oh and if you didn't already do so get some thermo-tec heat shielding and put in between the header and the lower fairing. Your paint job will thank you. It's self adhesive but when I did a sharkskinz I had I just painted some resin on it and it was permanent. That stuff REALLY works.
#13
Oh and if you didn't already do so get some thermo-tec heat shielding and put in between the header and the lower fairing. Your paint job will thank you. It's self adhesive but when I did a sharkskinz I had I just painted some resin on it and it was permanent. That stuff REALLY works.
#18
The rear portion wouldn't shine if it were still textured...you have to grind it down smooth and then polish it. It's a few extra steps & a little more work than the smoother parts like the swingarm and the front portion of the frame. I did the same to a gsxr I used to own. The frame is the same-rough texture towards the rear.
Last edited by captainchaos; 01-28-2010 at 01:54 PM.
#19
No rattle can jobs in my garage. Well, not for this kind of job anyway. In an earlier thread, I posted about painting the fairing Honda (car) "Milano Red", after repairing some tipover damage. I wanted just a shade darker/richer than the Italian Red OEM color. Its very close, but side by side, you can see the difference. I used a base coat/clear coat system from Martin Senour (NAPA).
#20
I am the beneficiary of a very meticulous polishing job done by the original owner. He obviously cherished the bike to have put that much effort into the polishing job. Getting the casting texture smoothed out and polished is very time consuming. He also polished the rims and engine casings. 2nd owner had the bike for a year and did not keep up the level of polish, especially on the rims.
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