low fuel light question
#1
low fuel light question
ok so we are all aware of the kryptonite that is our small fuel supply. keeping this in mind i am about to begin the task of turning my sh into a fighter. i am going to remove my stock cluster and was wondering if i could remove the led from the cluster and continue to use it.. anyone have any experince with this or should i just play around with it and find out for myself?
-nick
-nick
#2
AFAIK there is a small circuitboard wedged in between the two clocks in the gauge cluster connected to the RLOD LED... I haven't investigated it further, but since neither the RLOD or the circuit is connected to anything else I'm fairly certain that the sensor to read the resistance and turn on the RLOD at the right value is in that circuit... I'm guessing you could just power it with + and gnd and seal it up from weather and the RLOD would work as intended...
Just a theory though... You get to be the guinea pig...
Just a theory though... You get to be the guinea pig...
#7
Well, since my PM box fills up every 3 hour or so I think I prefer a small thread jack...
Basically I used the sensor for the newer VTR, with a float and just swapped the old one out for the new one... Then I designed a small circuit for reading the resistance values and displaying it on 5 LED's and one LED for low... I'll gladly share the circuit drawing, but to have much use of it ones needs to know a fair bit of electronics, and be able to manufacture a PCB... I could build one and send to you though...
The PCB is roughly 1*1.5" and you can either have the LED's on it or on short wires, hiding the PCB in the back of the gauge...
Basically I used the sensor for the newer VTR, with a float and just swapped the old one out for the new one... Then I designed a small circuit for reading the resistance values and displaying it on 5 LED's and one LED for low... I'll gladly share the circuit drawing, but to have much use of it ones needs to know a fair bit of electronics, and be able to manufacture a PCB... I could build one and send to you though...
The PCB is roughly 1*1.5" and you can either have the LED's on it or on short wires, hiding the PCB in the back of the gauge...
#11
97-00 uses a sensor, 01+ uses a float on an arm... Same mounting, same connector... Just turn the tank upside down and swap it...
Dunno about price, I'll have to do some math tonight and see what the parts add up too...
Dunno about price, I'll have to do some math tonight and see what the parts add up too...
#12
To work around it you have to either modify the float arm or the tank. (we shortened and re-bent the float arm)
#13
If you want I can mould it into a potting compound, ie a black rubber block... No extra charge, makes it weatherproof, but needs to be mounted outside the original cluster, you get the fun of figuring that out...
It might be different with firestorms, but when we did that on YRUYUR's bike the float only got about half the movement because of the internal vent line in the tank.
To work around it you have to either modify the float arm or the tank. (we shortened and re-bent the float arm)
To work around it you have to either modify the float arm or the tank. (we shortened and re-bent the float arm)
#16
The cost of the board with the LED's on the board or on wires to make mounting easier would be $22... And obviuosly shipping... The board would be laquered so, moisture isn't a problem, but outright splashes is a bad idea, needs to be inside the gauge cluster or some other container to be protected...
If you want I can mould it into a potting compound, ie a black rubber block... No extra charge, makes it weatherproof, but needs to be mounted outside the original cluster, you get the fun of figuring that out...
I bent mine, didn't shorten it though...
If you want I can mould it into a potting compound, ie a black rubber block... No extra charge, makes it weatherproof, but needs to be mounted outside the original cluster, you get the fun of figuring that out...
I bent mine, didn't shorten it though...
#17
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