Frame Polishing questions.
#1
Frame Polishing questions.
I'm in the process of polishing my frame, I was wondering how any of ya'll who have done this removed the coating from the frame. That **** is hard as nails and I don't want to go drastic on it until I get some ideas from other guys who have done this.
Now my normal process of polishing aluminum goes as follows. First I strip and clean then I sand (in order) with 240 320 400 1000 2000 ,then polish with a cloth and polish compound. comes out pretty nice. Had a cop tell my freind his frame was a distraction to the motorist on the street ,so thats gotta be pretty bright.
Any ideas would be much appreciated.
Now my normal process of polishing aluminum goes as follows. First I strip and clean then I sand (in order) with 240 320 400 1000 2000 ,then polish with a cloth and polish compound. comes out pretty nice. Had a cop tell my freind his frame was a distraction to the motorist on the street ,so thats gotta be pretty bright.
Any ideas would be much appreciated.
#2
Re: Frame Polishing questions.
Well you won't like my advice: Don't do it!!!
Upps, too late huh? You think it's a lot of work now, just wait till you have to keep it that way. Mine came polished (not a great job tho') and it's the first bike I've ever had with one. I can shine it up rather easy with a polishing wheel on a drill and some basic metal polish (takes about 15 minutes) but it gets dull so quickly and shows water stains after washing. I'm seriously considering those metal sealant products but they are NOT cheap. The cheapest I've found so far on the net is about $100 and may not be enough for a frame and swingarm. These are marketed towards the custom show car crowd and we all know how crazy those guys can get.....
Anyway, you might try finding the highest grade grinding wheel you can for that factory coating. Try it on the backside first. Also, as you may know, chemical strippers work great on the wheels but would be a real bitch using on a non-stripped frame since the overspray could create LOTS of problems.
Upps, too late huh? You think it's a lot of work now, just wait till you have to keep it that way. Mine came polished (not a great job tho') and it's the first bike I've ever had with one. I can shine it up rather easy with a polishing wheel on a drill and some basic metal polish (takes about 15 minutes) but it gets dull so quickly and shows water stains after washing. I'm seriously considering those metal sealant products but they are NOT cheap. The cheapest I've found so far on the net is about $100 and may not be enough for a frame and swingarm. These are marketed towards the custom show car crowd and we all know how crazy those guys can get.....
Anyway, you might try finding the highest grade grinding wheel you can for that factory coating. Try it on the backside first. Also, as you may know, chemical strippers work great on the wheels but would be a real bitch using on a non-stripped frame since the overspray could create LOTS of problems.
#3
Re: Frame Polishing questions.
[quote="superbling";p="5365"]Well you won't like my advice: Don't do it!!!
Well I already know the up keep on such a job because this is'nt my first rodeo. I just trying to figure out if its a painted type coating or an anodized type . Either way I'll see what I can do to get it off with out too much trouble(yeah right!).
Well I already know the up keep on such a job because this is'nt my first rodeo. I just trying to figure out if its a painted type coating or an anodized type . Either way I'll see what I can do to get it off with out too much trouble(yeah right!).
#4
Re: Frame Polishing questions.
I also would like to polish my frame. the plastic was taken off at about fifty by the street. and since its off I would like to polish the frame(and scrapes) Would stoping at a dull 1000 or lower number, and finishing with a pain clear coat work ?
#5
Re: Frame Polishing questions.
My experience with poishing , stoping at 1000 would leave it kindof dull. If you want it to shine I would go on up to the 2000 and then buff it with a good aluminum polish on a cotton cloth.
#8
It doesn't take too much effort to get the clearcoat off. You just sand it with the rougher grit and you'll see once you get through it. Yes it's a pain in the *** but it's there for a reason and does it's job well on the stock parts. I currently have a polished swingarm on mine, and the removing the clearcoat does add to the time the process takes. The nice thing is underneath it's already smooth. I spent a year polishing everything that could be on a gsxr600 I basically fully restored from a clapped out racebike, and while it did look amazing it's a ROYAL pain in the *** to upkeep and definitely NOT recommended for anything you ride on a regular basis unless you have the time to constantly upkeep it. Did I mention the process itself kinda sucks too? But yes is does look really nice it you know what you're doing and take the time to do it right, which many people don't.
#10
Damn....I'm still on the fence on this topic. I'd like to polish the frame, probably only the visible part just below the tank and not the swingarm (or maybe the swingarm too if the frame comes out right!). I know it's one of those love it or hate it looks (like the two bros. carbon fiber exhaust....I like it).
I gather that the upkeep sucks, but I work from home and ride and tinker with the bike when I'm bored (read "no work on the desk") so I'd have the time to do it.
Texassuperhawk - did you ever go through with it? Got any pics?
Also are we talking exclusively hand sanding here? or are there some finger saving tools to be used? Thanks!
I gather that the upkeep sucks, but I work from home and ride and tinker with the bike when I'm bored (read "no work on the desk") so I'd have the time to do it.
Texassuperhawk - did you ever go through with it? Got any pics?
Also are we talking exclusively hand sanding here? or are there some finger saving tools to be used? Thanks!
#11
What I did was a complete strip down and polish. Then I clear powder coated all the bits before re-assembly of the bike. More work but a better result in my opinion.
You never need polish them again.
You never need polish them again.
#12
rip the whole bike down so your holding the frame in your hand and start sanding. My bro has his own shop so we do a couple of bikes per year. you have to start with 80 grit and go all the way to 2000. get yourself a D/A (dual action sander) and a right angle grinder for the buffing wheels. you need rouge too.
#13
nike came with frame and swingarm done.... now that it's winter I don't keep up with it, however becuase iof this I am now going to street fighter the bike cuase it will hopefully be easier to keep the fram shinny!
#15
Here's part of it... I found a better write up than this, but it's a start.
http://gixxer1300r.proboards23.com/i...ead=1071129035
http://gixxer1300r.proboards23.com/i...ead=1071129035
#16
Here it is.... this site has alot of polishing, painting, plating tips....
http://forum.caswellplating.com/showthread.php?t=1755
http://forum.caswellplating.com/showthread.php?t=1755
#17
The frame is not anidized a color what you sre seeing on your VTR are extrusion lines. The best way to get them off is to start sanding. Progressing to finer grit as you go. THIS IS NOT A QUICK JOB. It took me about 40 hours of labor. Some of those lines can be pretty deep. You'll need rough cut jewelers rouge and fine cut jewelers rouge also. and finish it off with a good metal polish.(Mothers, Meguiars, etc) Use these polishes to keep it up. I do mine about once a month.
Take your time it will be worth it.
Take your time it will be worth it.
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vtrlvr
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04-09-2007 11:52 AM