The Dunstall VTR---round 3
#34
I love it. I am not usually a fan of the SH getting the cafe treatment. One suggestion is maybe polishing the ends of the radiators. Since you polished all the other aluminum. Great job!
#36
If I remember right, most accessible SSSA's are a little heavier than the standard ones... One option is an SP2 swingarm- they're way lighter, handle better, and even have more bracing and a more raw look like the rest of your bike.
Just looking at it an SSSA is too pretty on your build (all opinion of course!)
And if you're looking for things to polish, I've always been a fan of the rim stripe
Just looking at it an SSSA is too pretty on your build (all opinion of course!)
And if you're looking for things to polish, I've always been a fan of the rim stripe
#37
love it. what does it look like without that white front wheel fender? think it deserves a matching polished AL look and might look good simply going bare; could possibly do with a higher end paint or fab something up pretty easy im sure. congrats on a job well done.
i second the radiator polishing and the rim stripe
i second the radiator polishing and the rim stripe
#38
7: Thanks for the tip on the swinger weights, I did not know all that. I will have to do some searching around for the SP-2 swinger, since I agree the braced look would match nicely!
Rocker: I have in the works to build a Texalium fiberglass front fender, I just haven't gotten to it yet...This fender (in white pearl, I might add) is leftovers from the first generation rebuild I did last year--to match the then painted tank. Rest assured, it will be coming off! Thanks for the props!!
Rocker: I have in the works to build a Texalium fiberglass front fender, I just haven't gotten to it yet...This fender (in white pearl, I might add) is leftovers from the first generation rebuild I did last year--to match the then painted tank. Rest assured, it will be coming off! Thanks for the props!!
#39
Finally got weather good enough to test the NO system out on the bike. It is set up currently with a +18 wet shot.
It raised RPM at WOT in 6th by about 250-300 engine RPM--pushing close to redline. It was incredibly smooth, and the bike planed out and ran like a champ on-gas. My speedo reads the front wheel and is dead accurate to 100 mph, and I have pretty good confidence in it. I reached an indicated 146.5 before I had to turn out because of the road. I was pushing a wind of about 10-15 mph, and given better conditions, I think I can easily break the 150 mark with change to spare. I figure all in all, this is not bad for 5000' above sea level. I did play around with just using it on acceleration, and notice much improved acceleration performance. Of course this is part weight loss, but back to back comparos with and without gas showed a marked improvement.
I have a few more changes to make and then will try to get dyno numbers to verify the nitrous boost.
At any rate, I figured I would post up the preliminary findings. Though a lot of fun, it pretty much what I expected in terms of the performance. It is certainly not the engine-blowing curse reported to be, but it is certainly something that has to be used properly.
Cheers!
It raised RPM at WOT in 6th by about 250-300 engine RPM--pushing close to redline. It was incredibly smooth, and the bike planed out and ran like a champ on-gas. My speedo reads the front wheel and is dead accurate to 100 mph, and I have pretty good confidence in it. I reached an indicated 146.5 before I had to turn out because of the road. I was pushing a wind of about 10-15 mph, and given better conditions, I think I can easily break the 150 mark with change to spare. I figure all in all, this is not bad for 5000' above sea level. I did play around with just using it on acceleration, and notice much improved acceleration performance. Of course this is part weight loss, but back to back comparos with and without gas showed a marked improvement.
I have a few more changes to make and then will try to get dyno numbers to verify the nitrous boost.
At any rate, I figured I would post up the preliminary findings. Though a lot of fun, it pretty much what I expected in terms of the performance. It is certainly not the engine-blowing curse reported to be, but it is certainly something that has to be used properly.
Cheers!
Last edited by t99ford; 03-23-2012 at 08:44 PM.
#42
I named it that in the early stages of the build because of the seat style. I since renamed the bike 'Christine' after the '80's horror flick, but didn't change it in the title
#47
Stunning! Fab skills par excellence.
My first impression was a fighter aircraft from the 50's-60's era. Then I see that you did some aircraft type warning labels.
You made mention that the original plan was different than what developed.
I'm sure you know that art sometimes takes on a life of it's own and takes you someplace completely new.
My first impression was a fighter aircraft from the 50's-60's era. Then I see that you did some aircraft type warning labels.
You made mention that the original plan was different than what developed.
I'm sure you know that art sometimes takes on a life of it's own and takes you someplace completely new.
#48
I love the look. I would have some concern on where the NOS is being injected though. Generally you inject nitrous after the throttle body or carb. Injecting it before the throttle blades is asking for a bad situation. If you value your jewels I'd think of moving it to the backside of the carbs. Do you have a throttle activation switch for the NOS? Imagine your airbox full of fuel and oxygen and a backfire happening. Still love the look though.
#49
Thanks for the props and the concern, mate!
I just want to clarify that it is throttle body injected, and not simply shot into the airbox. This is a pretty significant difference as to the operation of the system. I was going to mount it after the throttle bodies, like you suggested, but the risers from the airbox into the head are too short to allow clearance for the use of the airbox with these nozzles. So they are mounted into the velocity stacks, and aimed down the carb throat. I didn't wire this with a throttle switch, as I prefer to manually inject. The bottle is too small to use for normal street riding, and as such, the nitrous is only for more conscienciously applied runs. It is run off the horn switch by me, and only when at WOT in order to achieve the maximum benefit. It's particularly useful for a 5th or sixth gear shift, as needed to gain RPM quickly. Since I am controlling the injection, WOT is always optained first, prior to nitrous. It maximizes the bottle, and the power use as well. Remember that most of the blow ups happen with nitrous at lower throttle speeds.
I've run similar systems on my mountain snowmobiles for years, and have had pretty good luck. You just have to pay attention to nozzle alignment, and more importantly, useage.
I gottat tell you, this thing runs like a house afire on the bottle, though! Got a couple bottles through, and with no ill effect. Like any NO system, you have to watch EGT's carefully, though!
I appreciate the positive feedback on the look, too. It's kind of a polarized look--either you love it, or hate it!
I just want to clarify that it is throttle body injected, and not simply shot into the airbox. This is a pretty significant difference as to the operation of the system. I was going to mount it after the throttle bodies, like you suggested, but the risers from the airbox into the head are too short to allow clearance for the use of the airbox with these nozzles. So they are mounted into the velocity stacks, and aimed down the carb throat. I didn't wire this with a throttle switch, as I prefer to manually inject. The bottle is too small to use for normal street riding, and as such, the nitrous is only for more conscienciously applied runs. It is run off the horn switch by me, and only when at WOT in order to achieve the maximum benefit. It's particularly useful for a 5th or sixth gear shift, as needed to gain RPM quickly. Since I am controlling the injection, WOT is always optained first, prior to nitrous. It maximizes the bottle, and the power use as well. Remember that most of the blow ups happen with nitrous at lower throttle speeds.
I've run similar systems on my mountain snowmobiles for years, and have had pretty good luck. You just have to pay attention to nozzle alignment, and more importantly, useage.
I gottat tell you, this thing runs like a house afire on the bottle, though! Got a couple bottles through, and with no ill effect. Like any NO system, you have to watch EGT's carefully, though!
I appreciate the positive feedback on the look, too. It's kind of a polarized look--either you love it, or hate it!
#51
Same bike just swapped the header. In his tests, the header with the restriction made more power.
So it is in there for a reason, Honda didn't just get sloppy.
You can remove it if you like but there is really no reason to do so.
#52
8541 is right. The removed restriction does make marginally less power than with the restriction at the Y on the stock header. This (was) a Two Brothers header, so I am not sure if the results are the same or not. The dyno I was using got sold, so I'm on the hunt for anther.
Beyond that thought, this is just a TBR header that has been cut down to a 2-1 and ceramic coated. It is cut down after the 2-1 joint. My idea here was mostly weight savings, as the power gain/ loss is negligible in the grand scheme, but the weight savings of losing the two huge cans and all that pipe was pretty significant. I did have to jet up a bit to make it all work, so there is something to the flow...If I ever get close to another dyno, I will let you guys know how it worked out.
Beyond that thought, this is just a TBR header that has been cut down to a 2-1 and ceramic coated. It is cut down after the 2-1 joint. My idea here was mostly weight savings, as the power gain/ loss is negligible in the grand scheme, but the weight savings of losing the two huge cans and all that pipe was pretty significant. I did have to jet up a bit to make it all work, so there is something to the flow...If I ever get close to another dyno, I will let you guys know how it worked out.
#53
Incidentally, I have managed to add another bike to the stable in the meantime--one of my longtime loves. Got a great deal on this 1098S with only 400 miles on it!!!
The VTR is still lighter, though...but not faster
The VTR is still lighter, though...but not faster
#54
This in today:
Christine – The Nitros Huffing Honda VTR1000F | Silodrome
Many thanks to James at silodrome.com. Really cool site with a lot of terrific eye candy!
Christine – The Nitros Huffing Honda VTR1000F | Silodrome
Many thanks to James at silodrome.com. Really cool site with a lot of terrific eye candy!
#57
Actually, I think the SP1 swingarm would fit the bike's theme better... The SP2 is all curved lines, while the SP1 is box sections, with obvious welds and spars... And it's really not too more difficult to fit, it's just a question of swapping some bearings, and sleeving some...
#58
I agree. I think the SP1 would fit better. I have a bunch of bike projects for other people lined up for the winter, but if I get the down time, I am going to look into doing it, just to keep the bike fresh.